Camera Mounts and Assorted 3D Printed Parts
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- WheresWaldo
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Here is my first attempt. Still need to double-check a few measurements. And make sure I like the overall design.
WheresWaldo wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 12:46 am
Here is my first attempt. Still need to double-check a few measurements. And make sure I like the overall design.
That looks AMAZING!!
Can't wait to try this out - thank you so much for your hard work Waldo!
- WheresWaldo
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@bsharp77
Sent you a PM, just need one more little bit of info.
And for your information, it is pretty much like the CCC, without actually having one in-hand to inspect. It covers the entire recess, extending about 2 mm over and onto the downtube, sticks out about 3 mm above the top face of the downtube, covers the entire EW-RS910 square mounting plate, front plate (with the buttons and lights) should sit about 0.5 mm below the face, all edges have softened curves.
One last thing, it will only be available in black and gray, even though the render is in red. I can't model in black or other dark colors as it is hard to see the profile details on-screen, hence the red render.
Sent you a PM, just need one more little bit of info.
And for your information, it is pretty much like the CCC, without actually having one in-hand to inspect. It covers the entire recess, extending about 2 mm over and onto the downtube, sticks out about 3 mm above the top face of the downtube, covers the entire EW-RS910 square mounting plate, front plate (with the buttons and lights) should sit about 0.5 mm below the face, all edges have softened curves.
One last thing, it will only be available in black and gray, even though the render is in red. I can't model in black or other dark colors as it is hard to see the profile details on-screen, hence the red render.
- WheresWaldo
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Because this question has been asked multiple times I would like to talk a bit about surface finishes.
TLDR; Sand it and paint it yourself! The HP MJF Printer has the best out of printer surface finish currently available (Read on for an explanation).
Everyonoe in the world is familiar with those little interlocking blogs, LEGO. and a lot of people base their perception oif how a plastic part should look by the surface finish of those little bricks. Well, sorry to say, in the 3D printing world that is not the reality. Those little blocks are injection molded and LEGO has as employees, some of the best material scientists in the world so that their bricks come out of those molds consistent in all aspects. 3D prints on the other hand are built up in layers, so any rounded or diagonal sufaces with show the layer lines to some extent.
Shapeways, in particular, but not limited to them, use a variety of 3D printers, all with different specs. Some print finer layers than others resulting in smoother surfaces. Other prints are 'post-processed' by putting them in some sort of bath or by tumbling them with ceramic beads, all in an effort to produce better surface textures. In my opinion, the surface textures that are achieved straight out of the printer by the Hewlett Packard MultiJetFusion printers are really good, that is usually my default selection. Unfortunately Shapeways has yet to offer any colors other than Black or Gray. The EOS 3D printers need post work to come up to the level of the HP MJF, that is why I only select the 'Processed' versions of those prints. The advantage of the EOS prints is that the prints all start out white and can be dyed with alcohol based dyes to make them any of the colors offered by Shapeways, the disadvantage is that since human beings have to touch the parts so many times, Shapways charges more for these prints.
Recently Shapeways started offering a 'glossy' version of the MJF black prints. Again, in my opinion, it is the worst finish that you can get from them, and they charge about double the pricing for that glossy finish, when it isn't even worth a penny more. Every example print I have ordered or seen photographed has not changed my mind about the quality of the surfaces in the glossy prints.
But I want it shiny and smooth! Then learn to sand and paint. If you want shiny smooth then sand you prints with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, follow that by using a UV resistant High Gloss clear coat in light coats over the sanded print, use matte or low gloss if that's how you roll. Preferably a 2K paint that is separate paint and hardener. 2K paints are also available in special aerosol cans that can only be used within 24 hours once you break the seal. Then after it is painted, put the print away and do not touch it or mount it on your bike for the next month.
I wish this was easier to accomplish but short of investing hundreds of thousand of dollars in molds and injection molding millions of parts I won't be the one to do it. Honestly I would bet that the average sales of parts on those pages can be measured in the 10's per year.
Now for people wanting to use their home printers to make little parts, for the most part it is the same, sanding and then painting, sometimes you can also use a filler like body putty or CA glue and baking soda to fill in the ridges, then sand and paint. If you are using ABS plastic in your home printer (like LEGO uses), you may be able to use a vapor bath of acetone to soften and smooth out the layer lines.
Any way you look at it, you end up having to sand and paint!
TLDR; Sand it and paint it yourself! The HP MJF Printer has the best out of printer surface finish currently available (Read on for an explanation).
Everyonoe in the world is familiar with those little interlocking blogs, LEGO. and a lot of people base their perception oif how a plastic part should look by the surface finish of those little bricks. Well, sorry to say, in the 3D printing world that is not the reality. Those little blocks are injection molded and LEGO has as employees, some of the best material scientists in the world so that their bricks come out of those molds consistent in all aspects. 3D prints on the other hand are built up in layers, so any rounded or diagonal sufaces with show the layer lines to some extent.
Shapeways, in particular, but not limited to them, use a variety of 3D printers, all with different specs. Some print finer layers than others resulting in smoother surfaces. Other prints are 'post-processed' by putting them in some sort of bath or by tumbling them with ceramic beads, all in an effort to produce better surface textures. In my opinion, the surface textures that are achieved straight out of the printer by the Hewlett Packard MultiJetFusion printers are really good, that is usually my default selection. Unfortunately Shapeways has yet to offer any colors other than Black or Gray. The EOS 3D printers need post work to come up to the level of the HP MJF, that is why I only select the 'Processed' versions of those prints. The advantage of the EOS prints is that the prints all start out white and can be dyed with alcohol based dyes to make them any of the colors offered by Shapeways, the disadvantage is that since human beings have to touch the parts so many times, Shapways charges more for these prints.
Recently Shapeways started offering a 'glossy' version of the MJF black prints. Again, in my opinion, it is the worst finish that you can get from them, and they charge about double the pricing for that glossy finish, when it isn't even worth a penny more. Every example print I have ordered or seen photographed has not changed my mind about the quality of the surfaces in the glossy prints.
But I want it shiny and smooth! Then learn to sand and paint. If you want shiny smooth then sand you prints with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, follow that by using a UV resistant High Gloss clear coat in light coats over the sanded print, use matte or low gloss if that's how you roll. Preferably a 2K paint that is separate paint and hardener. 2K paints are also available in special aerosol cans that can only be used within 24 hours once you break the seal. Then after it is painted, put the print away and do not touch it or mount it on your bike for the next month.
I wish this was easier to accomplish but short of investing hundreds of thousand of dollars in molds and injection molding millions of parts I won't be the one to do it. Honestly I would bet that the average sales of parts on those pages can be measured in the 10's per year.
Now for people wanting to use their home printers to make little parts, for the most part it is the same, sanding and then painting, sometimes you can also use a filler like body putty or CA glue and baking soda to fill in the ridges, then sand and paint. If you are using ABS plastic in your home printer (like LEGO uses), you may be able to use a vapor bath of acetone to soften and smooth out the layer lines.
Any way you look at it, you end up having to sand and paint!
Last edited by WheresWaldo on Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:08 pm, edited 5 times in total.
- WheresWaldo
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Made two minor changes to the plate @bsharp77 had requested. Added a tiny little curve to the bottom surface of the plate to help fill in the 'gap' on the very side edges and cut back the bottom section of the insert so there is less material there to interfere with the plate laying flat. Please note, I have never seen the EW-RS910 nor the Giant TCR Advanced in person, so most of this is just guessing and hoping on my part.
3D printer to the rescue once again for a small bike related maintenance task.
5 minute design (square with a round whole through it, cut it in half, 10 minute print and I now have a solution for removing old SRAM Barb/Olives from their hoses without forcing me to cut them.
Success today with this crude 2 piece clamp, but a lifesaver on an internally routed bike (Tarmac SL7) and $100 hoses.
Basically, clamp this on the hose to keep it from being crushed/spinning with regular pliers and use the T8 key to unscrew the whole thing (Barb + Olive). I clipped the very end of the hose off to get a fresh end to work with, but it's better than losing a few centimeters.
5 minute design (square with a round whole through it, cut it in half, 10 minute print and I now have a solution for removing old SRAM Barb/Olives from their hoses without forcing me to cut them.
Success today with this crude 2 piece clamp, but a lifesaver on an internally routed bike (Tarmac SL7) and $100 hoses.
Basically, clamp this on the hose to keep it from being crushed/spinning with regular pliers and use the T8 key to unscrew the whole thing (Barb + Olive). I clipped the very end of the hose off to get a fresh end to work with, but it's better than losing a few centimeters.
- WheresWaldo
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Can anyone here tell me if the new Trek Madone uses the same reflector bracket as last years model? A picture would be nice.
- WheresWaldo
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I am glad you are enjoying your creality, Just be open to the thought that not everything that can be printed, should be printed on a consumer 3D FDM printer.
- WheresWaldo
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Canyon would be the only one that knows that answer.
And speaking of Canyon, here is a Garmin RCT715 Mount Adapter for the S27, http://shpws.me/Ts6R
- WheresWaldo
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I now have a direct to post mount adapter for the Garmin RCT715 and the Trek Madone! Here are a couple of images that I received permission to post
https://www.shapeways.com/product/6X2SB52AV
https://www.shapeways.com/product/6X2SB52AV
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- WheresWaldo
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Maybe, but I would need to have a junction plate to find out. Do you know where I could get one?