Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works (4.99kg)
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
You saved that much weight taking the paint off and respraying with a satin clear coat? Or is that a matte finish. Carbon layup looks interesting. Nice job for $280.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
The shop explained to me the proper way to do this was a base clear coat layer and a finishing matte layer. The matte was my first choice too, it also turned out to be the lightest option they had to offer compared to, say, gloss. This was my first experience re-painting a frame, I'm quite satisfied with the result.
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- Posts: 246
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Good looking bike, although a shame to remove all that nice paint.
Would you happen to know your painted uncut fork's starting weight?
Would you happen to know your painted uncut fork's starting weight?
About 287g, the 20mm I cut off weigh ~6g. Maybe a bit more if the original owner cut it too.yourrealdad wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 7:07 pmWould you happen to know your painted uncut fork's starting weight?
Nothing too major. The Aethos came with a bar end junction-A, after contemplating a while I came up with a plan to hard-wire the battery, put it into the bars and route a single wire from the shifter to the RD. Then I read your thread again I'd like to replace what heavy bolts Aethos came with (flat mount, RD) and order the elusive Darimo shifter clamps. The Rico de Wert pedals will happen eventually too. Right now, I don't see any other potential modding areas. Granted, more weight can be saved with lighter, shallower wheels and Gillards, but I can't keep multiple wheel sets at the moment.
Nevertheless, looks like they did a great job for the price.Klaster_1 wrote:The shop explained to me the proper way to do this was a base clear coat layer and a finishing matte layer. The matte was my first choice too, it also turned out to be the lightest option they had to offer compared to, say, gloss. This was my first experience re-painting a frame, I'm quite satisfied with the result.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
The battery was successfully hardwired. Fun story: I wasted an hour going to the electronics repair shop and back because the modified battery didn't work, or so I though. After the repair guy - the one who did the job - suggested charging the battery, it came back to life. It just drained below the BMS cut voltage at the wrong time. At least we talked about the war (*f##k* it), in a friendly manner.
Before: battery - 26.5g, 75cm of naked wire - 4.7g. After: 22.66g for whole assembly. I'll wrap it in a plastic bag and put foam spacers on so it doesn't rattle inside the bar, but that won't add more than a couple of grams.
Before: battery - 26.5g, 75cm of naked wire - 4.7g. After: 22.66g for whole assembly. I'll wrap it in a plastic bag and put foam spacers on so it doesn't rattle inside the bar, but that won't add more than a couple of grams.
Today, I routed the Di2 the same way @takolino did. Pulling the wires through the frame was the easiest part, Aethos provides proper grommets and holes, unlike FM079.
From RD to the lever. Foam beads to silence the rattle. From shifter to bar end junction A. The junction is held by a foam ring and wires. My Darimo Ellipse wasn't originally drilled for Di2, so I routed the wire externally. Not yet sure how the wire will feel under the Tesa tape or for how long it will remain intact. From junction A to the battery inside the bar. Held tight by foam padding too. FM079 Di2: Shimano BT-DN110 (26,5g, tuned), Shimano SM-EW90-A (8.65g), Shimano EW-SD50 (17,67g, tuned). Total: 52.82g.
Aethos Di2: Shimano BT-DN110 (23.16g, tuned even more), EW-RS910 (6.67g), Shimano EW-SD50 (11.95g, tuned), foam beads (0.4g). Total: 42.18g.
Total savings: 10.64g.
If I had access to a 3D printer and better soldering skill, I'd try to DIY a combined battery/junction that integrates with RD, fastened by brackets or as a replacement for the plastic electronics cover.
From RD to the lever. Foam beads to silence the rattle. From shifter to bar end junction A. The junction is held by a foam ring and wires. My Darimo Ellipse wasn't originally drilled for Di2, so I routed the wire externally. Not yet sure how the wire will feel under the Tesa tape or for how long it will remain intact. From junction A to the battery inside the bar. Held tight by foam padding too. FM079 Di2: Shimano BT-DN110 (26,5g, tuned), Shimano SM-EW90-A (8.65g), Shimano EW-SD50 (17,67g, tuned). Total: 52.82g.
Aethos Di2: Shimano BT-DN110 (23.16g, tuned even more), EW-RS910 (6.67g), Shimano EW-SD50 (11.95g, tuned), foam beads (0.4g). Total: 42.18g.
Total savings: 10.64g.
If I had access to a 3D printer and better soldering skill, I'd try to DIY a combined battery/junction that integrates with RD, fastened by brackets or as a replacement for the plastic electronics cover.
Here's how much Aethos grommets weight. There's one in the chainstay:
One in the fork crown and the same one in the head tube:
Total grommet weight: 1.32g.
This wire can put on the underside of the bar, then you don't feel it.Klaster_1 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 12:03 pmFrom shifter to bar end junction A. The junction is held by a foam ring and wires. My Darimo Ellipse wasn't originally drilled for Di2, so I routed the wire externally. Not yet sure how the wire will feel under the Tesa tape or for how long it will remain intact.
PXL_20220410_100751185.jpg
Very questionable. This probably assumes:
1. Stock Di2 wires, with two layer on insulations. Mine are thinner with a single layer.
2. Conventional bar tape. I use fleece tape that only provides traction and no cushioning.
When routed underside, the ridge created by wire will be felt by inner side of four fingers, right against the joins. When routed over, the ridge will be located between thumb and index finger, the softest hand part without any bones, also covered by cushioned gloves (I always wear these, don't want any more scars).
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My mechanical engineer acquaintance who has access to a machine shop really helped me out by converting the rear hub from QR to TA. Unfortunately, I didn't weight the axle assembly before and after, rough estimations indicate weight gain of about 6g.
from last year, now I finally got a chance to use these, saving 6.32g. I might have some available for sale later.
Almost there!
The other notable thing were the custom aluminium Shimano road lever flange connecting bolts