What matters most for good shifting

[BobbyAamand]

I run 1x10 GRX400 with a Garbaruk 40t Nw in the front and Sram 1030 11-36 in the back with a KMC X10 chain and Jagwire Pro cables. I find that the shifting is satisfying but I like working on my bikes and want to learn how the get the very best shifting performance.

The question is very simple what matters the most for great shifting? I hope to start a good debate so that we can learn from each other and reach shifting perfection.

Things I am considering:
-More expensive casette like XT or similar. Apart from lower weight are there any benefits?
-Replacing the right lever with a grx 600 or 800. The added range is mostly nice to have but I'm perfectly happy with my ratios as it is. Are lever internals are better quality?

[Singular]

Straight hanger, good cables/housing, fresh chain.

[Steve Curtis]

A straight mech hanger is often overlooked, even on new bikes.
If this is misaligned shifting will be suboptimal, regardless of everything else in the system.

I don't think there is any real detectable difference between the level of components, but it's a while since I've ridden shimano.

[ooo]

turn off clutch

[Edopizzo]

Shimano chain with Shimano cassette

[robbosmans]

turn off clutch

If you have to turn of the clutch there are other problems with your drivetrain

[tarmackev]

Straight hanger, good cables/housing, fresh chain.

This. It's always been the same. Keeping it all as clean as possible. Cable routing as well.

Big jumps on the cassette make it bit more of a chore.

[Butcher]

Electric shifting. Good chain. Straight hanger. Good cassette. Factory components.

[jfranci3]

Basics > higher end components. Sora 11-36 9sp on my wifes bike and Shimano 7sp on my kids bike shift great. SLX 12 on my HT, not as well due to a frame design detail that I haven't fixed.

Cables. Cable routing. Having the cassette nice and tight on the freehub (if the freehub is worn). Chainline.
Cables - Jagwire Elite sealed (with the polished cable and seperate liner). For gravel, run the housing full length if you can. If you can't, run the liner full length for sure.
Routing - no pinches. Some internal cable routing ports (like the ones built into AL frames) can pinch the housing causing the cable to drag.

[BobbyAamand]

Thanks for all the advice it is much appreciated. I own the tool aligment tool and check it regularely: I once got at bend hanger on a bikepacking trip where som reeds got mangled up in the rear mech. I also keep things nice and clean and use the Silca Synergetic which I highly recommend.

So I will try a Shimano casette and chain combo and try the Jaqwire Elite. I run full length housing so guess it's the sealed version I need. Also it might be time to service the clutch mechanism as shifts definetly seems like less effort when it's turned off.

[voicycle]

Basics > higher end components.

I misread this at first but the examples made it make sense. I think this is it - getting the basics right is just so much more important than anything else.

In addition to the basics already highlighted by others:

• Nice and clean is good, but depending on the age of your shift cables sometimes you just need fresh ones (even if the same make/model).
• Always go back to the Shimano dealer manual and follow the setup instructions in order for indexing. Even if I know exactly what I'm trying to achieve with each adjustment I never seem to get anywhere near as good results if I do things in a different order than they say. A couple troubleshooting adjustments are no problem, but if I get to the point where I've tweaked several different settings multiple times (either in one workshop session or over a number of rides) then I usually find that the only way to get back to best performance is to go back to the beginning, check hanger alignment, and then go through the whole indexing process in order again. (this is maybe more relevant for Shimano front mechs than rear, but still...)
• Don't forget that Shimano chains are directional - writing has to face out. Different shaped shift ramps on the left side than the right. They will work if you install them backwards, but they won't shift as well. This L-R profiling is probably also why a Shimano brand chain was one of the recommendations you got further up.

[Attermann]

turn off clutch

you can just adjust the clutch.