New GRX this year?

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cerro
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by cerro

steveadore wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:53 am
Any updates about the expected release date?
1st september I heard

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steveadore
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by steveadore

cerro wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 4:56 pm
steveadore wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:53 am
Any updates about the expected release date?
1st september I heard
Oh, I was foolishly optimistic to expect something in a few weeks or so :( I'm building a bike and was hesitating whether to go with my current preferred setup (11 speed 46-30 x 11-34) or wait for the 12 speed and have the 11-36 cassette. I guess I'll just stick to my 11 speed GRX then

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bedampft
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by bedampft

steveadore wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 6:44 pm
cerro wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 4:56 pm
steveadore wrote:
Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:53 am
Any updates about the expected release date?
1st september I heard
Oh, I was foolishly optimistic to expect something in a few weeks or so :( I'm building a bike and was hesitating whether to go with my current preferred setup (11 speed 46-30 x 11-34) or wait for the 12 speed and have the 11-36 cassette. I guess I'll just stick to my 11 speed GRX then
You can use a 11-36 from Sunrace. Atm I'm using it with a 50/34 in front.

satanas
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by satanas

The current 2x GRX RD is known to work with 11-40, 11-42, and maybe even 11-46 occasionally - without a hanger extender. 11-36 is easy; no need to wait. There are Chinese 11-36 cassettes (ZTTO, etc) with different intermediate cogs to Sunrace too.

I'm hooing the 12 speed RD will work acceptably with an 11-42 Sunshine or 11-44 Ingrid cassette, but it looks like the wait to find out will be quite long. Sigh.

steveadore
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Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:01 am

by steveadore

satanas wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 3:19 am
The current 2x GRX RD is known to work with 11-40, 11-42, and maybe even 11-46 occasionally - without a hanger extender. 11-36 is easy; no need to wait. There are Chinese 11-36 cassettes (ZTTO, etc) with different intermediate cogs to Sunrace too.

I'm hooing the 12 speed RD will work acceptably with an 11-42 Sunshine or 11-44 Ingrid cassette, but it looks like the wait to find out will be quite long. Sigh.
Playing around with the ritzelrechner gear calculator I've realized that the 11-36 wouldn't change much for me. In fact, I don't really need easier gears at the low end of the cassette. What I'd prefer, however, is tighter/closer jumps at the other end, as I use the bike on the road too. My ideal 12 speed GRX cassette would be: 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34. If only Shimano made one like this. Even a 12-34 would have great spacing in a 12-speed version. To avoid the 15T-17T huge jumps (and have the 16T), I would have to go down to the 11-30 cassette in 12-speed too.

voicycle
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by voicycle

Do you not have different wheels for road? My road wheels have an 11-30 (because they also go on a road bike) and it’s an easy straight swap. Maybe a wee bit sluggish shifting between 3-4 biggest cogs but not enough to even be worth adjusting the B screw. Wouldn’t that get you your desired spacing?


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steveadore
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:01 am

by steveadore

voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 9:40 am
Do you not have different wheels for road? My road wheels have an 11-30 (because they also go on a road bike) and it’s an easy straight swap. Maybe a wee bit sluggish shifting between 3-4 biggest cogs but not enough to even be worth adjusting the B screw. Wouldn’t that get you your desired spacing?


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I've been thinking about that, but I'm wary of having adjust both the B-screw and even the L/H position, not to mention the disc calipers. I use factory built wheels (DT 240 Dicut), so maybe these potential issues could be avoided if I were to get a second wheelset with the same hubs. But even the 11-30 cassette has that big 13% jump between the 15T and 17T cogs. I really wish Shimano would offer cassettes starting with 12T (like of old 10-speed Ultegra 12-30) instead of 11T. I'd trade the 11T for a 16T between the 15T and 17T any day

voicycle
Posts: 170
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:38 am

by voicycle

steveadore wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 10:51 am
voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 9:40 am
Do you not have different wheels for road? My road wheels have an 11-30 (because they also go on a road bike) and it’s an easy straight swap. Maybe a wee bit sluggish shifting between 3-4 biggest cogs but not enough to even be worth adjusting the B screw. Wouldn’t that get you your desired spacing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been thinking about that, but I'm wary of having adjust both the B-screw and even the L/H position, not to mention the disc calipers. I use factory built wheels (DT 240 Dicut), so maybe these potential issues could be avoided if I were to get a second wheelset with the same hubs. But even the 11-30 cassette has that big 13% jump between the 15T and 17T cogs. I really wish Shimano would offer cassettes starting with 12T (like of old 10-speed Ultegra 12-30) instead of 11T. I'd trade the 11T for a 16T between the 15T and 17T any day
Most I've ever had to do (even between different makes of hub) is 1/2 turn on the barrel adjuster (but usually it's just like 1 notch or 1/8 of a turn if anything is required at all). That is, as long as I'm using Shimano cassettes - the Sunrace one that came on my Wahoo Kickr was significantly different, but once I replaced it with an old 5800 cassette it was like all the others. Yes I could adjust the B limit if I really wanted top performance but if I've got road wheels on my gravel bike I'm probably taking it a bit easier anyway so it's not worth the trouble - it just doesn't make that much of a difference. I guess if it bothers then you can do it if/when it's important to you and ignore it the rest of the time?

Brake rotor spacing is worth more attention though, and even identical make/model hubs will often be a bit different. Search for centrelock disc shims wherever you are and there's probably some company selling them (different in every market because they're usually just a re-badged item from a machine parts catalogue rather than a bike-specific part). If you're on 6-bolt then Syntace makes the product you want. I currently have 8 wheelsets across 4 bikes all set up with identical rotor spacing - any wheel can go on any bike with no adjustment as long as the tyres clear.

Can't help with the 15-17 jump though. Maybe another manufacturer (at the risk of different indexing)? I do think you can shim cassettes very similar to how you shim rotors...

steveadore
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:01 am

by steveadore

voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 11:10 am
steveadore wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 10:51 am
voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 9:40 am
Do you not have different wheels for road? My road wheels have an 11-30 (because they also go on a road bike) and it’s an easy straight swap. Maybe a wee bit sluggish shifting between 3-4 biggest cogs but not enough to even be worth adjusting the B screw. Wouldn’t that get you your desired spacing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been thinking about that, but I'm wary of having adjust both the B-screw and even the L/H position, not to mention the disc calipers. I use factory built wheels (DT 240 Dicut), so maybe these potential issues could be avoided if I were to get a second wheelset with the same hubs. But even the 11-30 cassette has that big 13% jump between the 15T and 17T cogs. I really wish Shimano would offer cassettes starting with 12T (like of old 10-speed Ultegra 12-30) instead of 11T. I'd trade the 11T for a 16T between the 15T and 17T any day
Most I've ever had to do (even between different makes of hub) is 1/2 turn on the barrel adjuster (but usually it's just like 1 notch or 1/8 of a turn if anything is required at all). That is, as long as I'm using Shimano cassettes - the Sunrace one that came on my Wahoo Kickr was significantly different, but once I replaced it with an old 5800 cassette it was like all the others. Yes I could adjust the B limit if I really wanted top performance but if I've got road wheels on my gravel bike I'm probably taking it a bit easier anyway so it's not worth the trouble - it just doesn't make that much of a difference. I guess if it bothers then you can do it if/when it's important to you and ignore it the rest of the time?

Brake rotor spacing is worth more attention though, and even identical make/model hubs will often be a bit different. Search for centrelock disc shims wherever you are and there's probably some company selling them (different in every market because they're usually just a re-badged item from a machine parts catalogue rather than a bike-specific part). If you're on 6-bolt then Syntace makes the product you want. I currently have 8 wheelsets across 4 bikes all set up with identical rotor spacing - any wheel can go on any bike with no adjustment as long as the tyres clear.

Can't help with the 15-17 jump though. Maybe another manufacturer (at the risk of different indexing)? I do think you can shim cassettes very similar to how you shim rotors...
Ah, the disc rotor shims are a wonderful idea! Thanks :D

satanas
Posts: 315
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2020 5:45 pm

by satanas

Maybe one of the Recon cassettes might suit you better?

https://www.recon-harry.com.tw/products_detail/1/1/45

NB: Reports about shifting quality vary.

steveadore
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:01 am

by steveadore

satanas wrote:
Tue Apr 18, 2023 2:53 pm
Maybe one of the Recon cassettes might suit you better?

https://www.recon-harry.com.tw/products_detail/1/1/45

NB: Reports about shifting quality vary.
Thanks, that's a nice gradation. Too bad about the question marks regarding quality of shifts. And it ain't cheap either

uppis
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:05 am

by uppis

steveadore wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 11:44 am
voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 11:10 am
steveadore wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 10:51 am
voicycle wrote:
Mon Apr 17, 2023 9:40 am
Do you not have different wheels for road? My road wheels have an 11-30 (because they also go on a road bike) and it’s an easy straight swap. Maybe a wee bit sluggish shifting between 3-4 biggest cogs but not enough to even be worth adjusting the B screw. Wouldn’t that get you your desired spacing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been thinking about that, but I'm wary of having adjust both the B-screw and even the L/H position, not to mention the disc calipers. I use factory built wheels (DT 240 Dicut), so maybe these potential issues could be avoided if I were to get a second wheelset with the same hubs. But even the 11-30 cassette has that big 13% jump between the 15T and 17T cogs. I really wish Shimano would offer cassettes starting with 12T (like of old 10-speed Ultegra 12-30) instead of 11T. I'd trade the 11T for a 16T between the 15T and 17T any day
Most I've ever had to do (even between different makes of hub) is 1/2 turn on the barrel adjuster (but usually it's just like 1 notch or 1/8 of a turn if anything is required at all). That is, as long as I'm using Shimano cassettes - the Sunrace one that came on my Wahoo Kickr was significantly different, but once I replaced it with an old 5800 cassette it was like all the others. Yes I could adjust the B limit if I really wanted top performance but if I've got road wheels on my gravel bike I'm probably taking it a bit easier anyway so it's not worth the trouble - it just doesn't make that much of a difference. I guess if it bothers then you can do it if/when it's important to you and ignore it the rest of the time?

Brake rotor spacing is worth more attention though, and even identical make/model hubs will often be a bit different. Search for centrelock disc shims wherever you are and there's probably some company selling them (different in every market because they're usually just a re-badged item from a machine parts catalogue rather than a bike-specific part). If you're on 6-bolt then Syntace makes the product you want. I currently have 8 wheelsets across 4 bikes all set up with identical rotor spacing - any wheel can go on any bike with no adjustment as long as the tyres clear.

Can't help with the 15-17 jump though. Maybe another manufacturer (at the risk of different indexing)? I do think you can shim cassettes very similar to how you shim rotors...
Ah, the disc rotor shims are a wonderful idea! Thanks :D
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/tune-sh ... s-4-pieces These work well, available on other retailers as well. I have multiple wheelsets with DT350, shifting works straight away but usually my casettes are about the same on one bike. Shims are needed on some wheelsets but not others, I assume there is a some variance between brake discs. It also matters how worn out the discs are.

CarlosFerreiro
Posts: 421
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Shetland, Scotland

by CarlosFerreiro

Slight change of topic. I've been gradually upgrading my gravel bike and GRX shifters were the last thing to do, to get rid of the old Shimano RS505s.
Then covid hit and the shifters were out of stock in the UK pretty much for 18 months. Since then they've been avalable but the price has gone up and now over £400 the pair.

I'm intending to stick with 11 speed for at least the next product cycle and maybe longer. Choices look to be:
- GRX800 levers now and put up with the price.
- GRX800 lever once new GRX comes out and they are all discounted. Or not availble....
- Wait for 11 speed CUES drop bar stuff, and also get a new rear mech, but maybe not get servowave braking.

Any thoughts, especially on how likely you think it will be to pick up clearance 800 levers after the new launch?

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FIJIGabe
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Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

I wouldn't bet on any price drops. Historically, I've just seen parts get scooped up quickly and prices don't really drop. Just get what you need (they should be plentiful now) and move on.

voicycle
Posts: 170
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:38 am

by voicycle

Sounds like drop bar CUES is a fair bit further down the line than even 12sp GRX so I'd rule that out in your case.

Not sure if you're saying you expect servowave on CUES or if you mean servowave is a reason to preference GRX, but it's worth noting that Servowave is only on GRX Di2. The mechanical GRX levers don't have it, and since you mention both CUES and RS505 it sounds like you're talking about mechanical shifting. EDIT: This paragraph is incorrect as pointed out in subsequent posts - I was thinking of the adjusted pivot point rather than servo-wave.

I'm in UK too and pricing doesn't look horrific on ST-RX810 right now, especially since a lot of online retailers have started doing occasional sitewide discount codes again - could be worth looking out for those for a month or two and see what turns up. Bike-discount can also sometimes still turn out to be a good deal even after paying VAT and import duty, but make sure you do the maths before placing that order!

If it's a 1 September launch as mentioned by another poster then I'd guess there will still be 810 stock around by the time Black Friday sales hit (that's if 12sp is even on shelves in the UK by then!) I would be prepared to be a bit of a shark when pre-Black Friday time comes around though as it could be easy to miss your chance. Maybe even take out a 0% credit card in advance so you've got the ability to pull the trigger on the first good deal you see and then potentially make use of the return policy if another retailer undercuts them nearer to actual Black Friday?

Last thought is - since 800 mechanical shifters don't have servowave they really aren't much different from ultegra R8020 or 105 R7020. I've owned all three models and it's really just the shape of the brake lever blade and the material it's made from. Metal GRX is definitely more sensibly crash-proof and the shape/texture is maybe slightly easier to grab hold of, but if I were on a budget I'd have no issue fitting R7020 as a cost cutting measure - even if I was running 1x and ended up with a redundant LH shifter. I think the odds of a crash that would damage a 105 shifter but not a GRX one are probably incredibly low.
Last edited by voicycle on Fri May 05, 2023 8:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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