Yes. 46t chainring with Sram Force AXS, 10-36 for gravel and 10-28 for road Really good for road too.
Factor LS
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I have an LS on order, and am wondering about non-drive side crankset clearance. Anyone have experience using a 4iii or Stages non-drive crank arm? Any clearance issues? Or would anyone mid posting a picture of the clearance on thier frame? Thank you.
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I will post a pic this weekend of the clearance on the frame - the new precision iii is pretty slim so should be no issue. I am using a rotor aldhu with the offroad axle (to better align with the GRX chainline)
Lots of bikes: currently riding Enve Melee, Krypton Pro, S Works Crux, S Works Epic Evo, SL7.
In build: SW SL8
In build: SW SL8
I'm running a Stages GRX, loads of roomTexjur1973 wrote:I have an LS on order, and am wondering about non-drive side crankset clearance. Anyone have experience using a 4iii or Stages non-drive crank arm? Any clearance issues? Or would anyone mid posting a picture of the clearance on thier frame? Thank you.
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Thanks so much. Looks great.moonoi wrote: ↑Sat Jul 09, 2022 3:10 pmI'm running a Stages GRX, loads of roomTexjur1973 wrote:I have an LS on order, and am wondering about non-drive side crankset clearance. Anyone have experience using a 4iii or Stages non-drive crank arm? Any clearance issues? Or would anyone mid posting a picture of the clearance on thier frame? Thank you.
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If I could also ask, do you find your rear wheel sits noticeably closer to your rear drive-side chainstay? I'm building mine and have tried multiple tire/wheel combos, and checked dish, and am finding that my tire sits far closer to the drive-side chainstay vs. non drive-side. And on top of that, I'm finding their claimed tire width of 40-43 is at best actual width vs. tire labeled width. So far I'm not finding any tire I'd feel safe riding (so as to avoid rubbing) that's marked more than 38mm, and which inflates to about 40mm. That latter part isn't that big of deal for what I want, but I've never had a bike where the wheel sits in it in what appear to be an asymmetrical manner. Maybe that's intentional - I've asked Factor.
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I'm betting the internal width has an effect. Which is understandable. Right now, I'm mostly concerned about how the gaps are different on each side of a wheel I know is properly dished and true. Do you see a difference in your frame on each side at the chain-stays by the bottom bracket? Thanks!
The DS is about 3.5mm while the NDS is 5mm gap. Never noticed the difference, but now that you pointed it out...there is a different gap. My wheel is dished correctly.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
Yes, no problems, needed to screw a little on the b-tension on the derailleur just.
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Thanks for the info!cerro wrote: ↑Fri Aug 05, 2022 7:48 amYes, no problems, needed to screw a little on the b-tension on the derailleur just.
The T47A is same for the Ostro. I wnt with a Hambini BB.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
I think you can use a regular T47 and some spacers on the drive side, I heard somewhere recently, I think on a CyclingTips podcast.
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• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
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