1x Campagnolo Ekar drivetrain

[LeManchot]

I have about 20,000 km (12,500 miles) with Campy Ekar on an Open Wide. 65% gravel, 30% road, 5% single track. So far reliability of the drivetrain has been very good. Brake bleeding has been problematic however. Campy has recently replaced the bleed port valve assembly. We'll see if that resolves the issue of rapid (<500 km) bleed down that I and many others have experienced.

I've recently switched from an Easton EC70 handlebar to the Coefficent RR handlebar. The "notch" between the brake lever (aka "control" in Campagnolo-speak) and the bar on the trailing portion of the lever assembly is negligent on the Easton bars and quite significant on the Coefficent bars. Plan to fill with 3mm Bondcush and hopefully get a more comfotable transistion. The Coefficent bars are awsome!

The cassette squeaks that I have had have reliably been due to two things: 1. dirt finding its way between the cassette and the freehub and 2. the bolts holding the upper (larger) part of the casstte together can get loose"ish". For #1, remove the cassette and clean up the contact surfaces; for #2, tighten the upper cassette assembly bolts - I have not been able to find a torque spec for those bolts in any of the Campy literature on Ekar. Anyone know what the torque spec is for those bolts?

[gwerziou]

With Ekar making up about half of total Campy sales, I can't imagine a refresh is too far off? Any rumors? I could imagine, of course, a WRL version; maybe even 14 speeds for the electronic version? A mild update might see some changes to the cassette to avoid squeaking, an improved clutch, and maybe a lighter crank.

[LeManchot]

Yes, a refresh would be timely... but Campagnolo is not known for being timely. Although I would be an immediate customer to update to a wireless Ekar drivetrain with a lighter crank (maybe via collaboration with 3T and the Torno) and some mechanical improvements, it seems, from Campy's history, that that would be a couple years down the road. However, hope is eternal!

[Miller]

for #2, tighten the upper cassette assembly bolts - I have not been able to find a torque spec for those bolts in any of the Campy literature on Ekar. Anyone know what the torque spec is for those bolts?

When I was working to quieten an Ekar cassette creak the other day I experimentally felt the tightness of those bolts. On my cassette they are extremely tight. I guess Campag doesn't quote torque specs because they don't think anyone should be touching those bolts.

After half a year with Ekar I don't think much about the mechanical version needs to be improved. As already noted, reduce incidence of cassette creaking, maybe make the gnarly clutch mechanism more user friendly somehow. However I'm sure a wireless WRL version at a feasible price would fly out of the shops.

[LeManchot]

Yeah, that may be true. I've only found them loose-"ish" once and tightened them as much as my Silca ratchet would allow. The creaking was resolved.

Agreed on the sales of a wireless Ekar drive train!

[Playitagainsam]

Anyone having skipping or jumping gears? On the same two cogs at the back, the 4th and 5th on a 10-44 they either skip or the chain jumps, not quite sure which. No matter how I index the gears its always the same two cogs. Doesnt happen when the bikes in the stand just under load. Everything else shifts great. Any recommendations?

[LeManchot]

I would check alignment of the derailleur hanger - or try a new hangar if you have that available. I've had what you describe but was able to resolve it by adjusting the deraillieur so it sounds like you may have somethiung else going on. I would also remove the cassette and clean up the interface between the hub drive and the cassette and, since the cassette is off, check the bolts that secure the upper (larger sprockets) part of the cassette to the spider - they should be tight. Not sure what the torque spec for those cassette bolts is (see above), however mine got loose-"ish" once and tightening resolved the noise.

[Miller]

I haven't had that on Ekar but in general, for a chain jumping under load on middle cogs, I'd be suspecting new chain on an old cassette. Could this apply?

[DrimeOser]

You might also have a little too much friction in the shifter housein/cable. Are you having an integrated cockpit with the cable running in tight angles?

[Playitagainsam]

Thanks very much for the replies. Dont have a hanger alignement tool so will pop into the shop and see. Ill take the cassette off too and have a look. Chain and cassette are both the exact same age and I dont think the cassette would have worn that much yet especially considering I jump over these two gears when shifting at the moment to avoid this jumping or skipping. Cabling is largely external and all looks very smooth but I'm going to change the handlebar tape and will see about relaxing it even more.

It really irks me that the shifting everywhere else is so good except for these two gears, its so satisfying to shift compared to my shimano ultegra on my road bike which is nearly too quiet and slick now.

Also as a side note, ordered a new 13 speed chain and when it arrived there were three quick links inside the box which was a nice surprise.

[Playitagainsam]

Duplicate

[Vespasianus]

I have about 20,000 km (12,500 miles) with Campy Ekar on an Open Wide. 65% gravel, 30% road, 5% single track. So far reliability of the drivetrain has been very good. Brake bleeding has been problematic however. Campy has recently replaced the bleed port valve assembly. We'll see if that resolves the issue of rapid (<500 km) bleed down that I and many others have experienced.

The cassette squeaks that I have had have reliably been due to two things: 1. dirt finding its way between the cassette and the freehub and 2. the bolts holding the upper (larger) part of the casstte together can get loose"ish". For #1, remove the cassette and clean up the contact surfaces; for #2, tighten the upper cassette assembly bolts - I have not been able to find a torque spec for those bolts in any of the Campy literature on Ekar. Anyone know what the torque spec is for those bolts?

I fixed the cassette squeek by greasing the two parts of the cassette. Not a peep for the last 1500+ miles.

What is the bleed down you talk about? My brakes have been more finicky than my H11 brakes, but once I get them set, they are fine. I have not bleed them since new - but only have about 3K on the bike. My issues have all been about switching wheels and having to re-center the brakes.

I personally love EKAR and don’t want them to go wireless. The system is so simple and efficient!

[LeManchot]

I agree on the Ekar mechanical - it's the simplest execution! The wireless would be nice from a cable management perspective but I am not entirely convinced that wireless would improve my experinece.

The bleed down issue is one that has been discussed on this forum and on others. No one knows what the issue is but there are those who have regularly experienced bleed down in less than 1000 km of use, me included. Bleeding brakes every two weeks is not accepatable. We'll see if the bleed valve replacement is the issue. We should be getting 6000 km or more from a bleed. It's been a real disappointment for me having been a Campy customer for over 50 years.

[Vespasianus]

I agree on the Ekar mechanical - it's the simplest execution! The wireless would be nice from a cable management perspective but I am not entirely convinced that wireless would improve my experinece.

The bleed down issue is one that has been discussed on this forum and on others. No one knows what the issue is but there are those who have regularly experienced bleed down in less than 1000 km of use, me included. Bleeding brakes every two weeks is not accepatable. We'll see if the bleed valve replacement is the issue. We should be getting 6000 km or more from a bleed. It's been a real disappointment for me having been a Campy customer for over 50 years.

I actually searched this thread for "bleed down" and did not find much. I also follow the EKAR thread on paceline and have not heard this before. Are you saying that you have to bleed every two weeks? If so, something is wrong - either with the bleed or with a seal. I don't think most Campag shops do a good job bleeding these brakes. I have not bleed my brakes since installation.

[LeManchot]

Yes, based on the volume of riding I do, I often have to bleed the brakes every couple of weeks and have communicated this to the shop where I purchased the bike and to Campagnolo. The attiude from the shop and Campy has been, let's say, not inspiring. My local shop (not the shop where I bought the bike) doesn't use the Campy bleed process and, so far, I am seeing better performance (up to 2000 km and counting on thier bleed of my brakes). Time will tell. Glad to hear that you have not experienced any bleed issues and let's hope that that continues!