

Moderator: Moderator Team
Usually a spacer above the stem is needed for the stem to have 100% clamping on the fork. I ride with maybe 10mm spacers above the stem without problems. The bike is used for about 6000k right now.FactoryMatt wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:19 pmNice build. Yeah spesh spec of "OSBB" doesnt tell you much. Its technically a PF30 with bb30 cups glued in.
Not to be a stickler but on your stem setup, spesh recommends no spacers above the stem. At the very least you want to make sure the clamp area of the stem is not below the internal expansion plug.
this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.rothwem wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm
-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
Cool, will give the sandpaper trick a shot tomorrow. I’m curious what the 2022 Crux will be like, but there’s a 99% chance I’m not getting one.FactoryMatt wrote:this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.rothwem wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm
-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
take some fine sandpaper and gently rough up the contact surface of the wedge on the seatpost side. then, apply light grease to the sliding surfaces between the bolt and the backside of the wedge AND LIGHTLY to the threads of the bolt.
then, very carefully torque it to 6.5NM using a calibrated torque wrench.
failing that, use a thin (e.g. Silca) tubeless rim tape and place one or two narrow strips of tape on the front and back of the seatpost as shims just below the clamping area of the seatpost. and failing that, maybe even on the clamping area.
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also, new Crux coming second half of '21 i've heard
Hey—that seems to have fixed it. 3 rides with no seatpost movement, but I don’t want to jinx anything.rothwem wrote:Cool, will give the sandpaper trick a shot tomorrow. I’m curious what the 2022 Crux will be like, but there’s a 99% chance I’m not getting one.FactoryMatt wrote:this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.rothwem wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm
-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
take some fine sandpaper and gently rough up the contact surface of the wedge on the seatpost side. then, apply light grease to the sliding surfaces between the bolt and the backside of the wedge AND LIGHTLY to the threads of the bolt.
then, very carefully torque it to 6.5NM using a calibrated torque wrench.
failing that, use a thin (e.g. Silca) tubeless rim tape and place one or two narrow strips of tape on the front and back of the seatpost as shims just below the clamping area of the seatpost. and failing that, maybe even on the clamping area.
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also, new Crux coming second half of '21 i've heard
Wow. That guy has some stones. I’ve done some dicey cuts with a hacksaw (see a couple posts up) but I don’t think I’d do that.FactoryMatt wrote:Awesome! good deal.
it's a bitch, but the best fix IMO is to hacksaw the stock "bb30" cups out of the frame and run a PF 30 bb. this allows larger bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqKwJ9vXvYY
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/pre ... 7590616123 (68mm width shell)
i've done two of them so far. the trick is to not cut it all the way. just enough so it will tear when you get a chisel under the flange and "rip" it with a set of knipex pliers.rothwem wrote: ↑Fri Nov 13, 2020 1:35 amWow. That guy has some stones. I’ve done some dicey cuts with a hacksaw (see a couple posts up) but I don’t think I’d do that.FactoryMatt wrote:Awesome! good deal.
it's a bitch, but the best fix IMO is to hacksaw the stock "bb30" cups out of the frame and run a PF 30 bb. this allows larger bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqKwJ9vXvYY
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/pre ... 7590616123 (68mm width shell)