It already has a 3mm spacer on the DS. There is no enough space in the DUB axle length to bear more spacers I think.
Sadly, that will be my choice... I will look for a Rival WIDE crankset.
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It already has a 3mm spacer on the DS. There is no enough space in the DUB axle length to bear more spacers I think.
Sadly, that will be my choice... I will look for a Rival WIDE crankset.
I'm currently riding the Pathfinder Sworks 42mm and love it. What is it that you don't like about the Schwalbe G-One RS 45mm? Just curious as it was a tire that I had considered in the past.
Why everyone is so afraid of small chainring clearance? I rode with 1-2mm clearance on mine for 2 years with no issues. Less of a chance of anything getting stuck in there and the frame won't flex enough to cause any damage. As long as there is a clearance you should be fine.
But why it will rub? I call this bs. The frame is not designed to flex that much at least not this part in particular in relation to chainstay. Two years of riding racing with less than 2mm and no issues at all here. No matter how much power you put it does not rub.robbosmans wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:34 pmBecause it definitely will rub, 3mm is a good rule of thumb
How big are you? I have a 58 Crux and weigh around 85kg. My BB area definitely flexes a good bit. Like I can see the flex with each pedal stroke. I'm using GRX so I have a good bit of clearance, but I could definitely see it flexing 1-2mm.CasualRider wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 12:42 amBut why it will rub? I call this bs. The frame is not designed to flex that much at least not this part in particular in relation to chainstay. Two years of riding racing with less than 2mm and no issues at all here. No matter how much power you put it does not rub.robbosmans wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:34 pmBecause it definitely will rub, 3mm is a good rule of thumb
I'm 70kg, close to 5W/kg. I was riding 54 and just got 52. Even when I put 1000W there is no rub on either frame. I've never noticed BB flexing in relation to chainstay.BikeTyson wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 1:44 amHow big are you? I have a 58 Crux and weigh around 85kg. My BB area definitely flexes a good bit. Like I can see the flex with each pedal stroke. I'm using GRX so I have a good bit of clearance, but I could definitely see it flexing 1-2mm.CasualRider wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 12:42 amBut why it will rub? I call this bs. The frame is not designed to flex that much at least not this part in particular in relation to chainstay. Two years of riding racing with less than 2mm and no issues at all here. No matter how much power you put it does not rub.robbosmans wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:34 pmBecause it definitely will rub, 3mm is a good rule of thumb
It wouldn't surprise me that the smaller frames are stiffer. But it's a pretty well documented occurrence for the Aethos and Crux to flex at the BB. Maybe you're just not putting out enough watts.CasualRider wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 7:23 pmI'm 70kg, close to 5W/kg. I was riding 54 and just got 52. Even when I put 1000W there is no rub on either frame. I've never noticed BB is not flexing in relation to chainstay.BikeTyson wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 1:44 amHow big are you? I have a 58 Crux and weigh around 85kg. My BB area definitely flexes a good bit. Like I can see the flex with each pedal stroke. I'm using GRX so I have a good bit of clearance, but I could definitely see it flexing 1-2mm.CasualRider wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 12:42 amBut why it will rub? I call this bs. The frame is not designed to flex that much at least not this part in particular in relation to chainstay. Two years of riding racing with less than 2mm and no issues at all here. No matter how much power you put it does not rub.robbosmans wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:34 pmBecause it definitely will rub, 3mm is a good rule of thumb
That is next level awesome.dtm311 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2024 1:18 amI haven't picked this bike up yet, but am so stoked on how it came out that I wanted to share some pics from the mechanics. I'm so stoked on how it came out, the paint was done by Tyler Marchesano (@tunedbytyler) and he knocked it out of the park. All the blues and purples are iridescent.
The build kit is a mix of old and new parts and kept pretty standard for racing, although I did use an Alpitude chain catcher and titanium cages and bolts to make it worthy of this forum.
These are borrowed wheels for the setup, I'll most likely be using CLX50s with 33mm Challenge Strada Bianca tires (I love them) and Terra CLXs with 40mm G-One R and RS. And I love AXS now that I have a setup on a few different bikes. I can swap between the 2x or 1x road derailleur (10-33 or 10-36), 1x XPLR (10-44) or 1x Eagle (10-52) in 15 minutes or so.
I'll weigh it when I get it, it's a 61cm with a lot of paint so I'm not expecting anything crazy but I'm guessing it'll beat my current Crux and look good doing it.
Thanks for offering help with this. I contacted Specialized, the official position is that you have to mount the backing plate, but all the mecanics I have consulted insist that the backing plate is not necessary in non-S-works models. It seems that the builder doesn´t know what he builds.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:12 amPost a picture if you can ? Will clear it all up.YH0 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 25, 2024 6:53 amThanks for that. In my case the hanger bolds go inside the frame into two "rivets" made of carbon, that are around 5mm, these rivets make impossible to fix the plate against the wall or even to screw the bolds into it. I didn´t think, the plate could be not needed in this build.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2024 11:41 pmI ordered a 1x crux pulled parts to have di2 on it. My frame didn't come with a front derailleur mount. I order the one you have pictured. I popped off the rubber grommets and screwed in the mount. I think only S Works uses the full Aethos mount that you posted. I didn't need the backing plate.
Always mind boggling that people call specialized to ask for help.If you have a good LBS that works with specialized, I would ask them. Not everyone at specialized is a mechanic. Why do you still think you need that backing plate when you know you can't install it?YH0 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 16, 2024 2:43 pmThanks for offering help with this. I contacted Specialized, the official position is that you have to mount the backing plate, but all the mecanics I have consulted insist that the backing plate is not necessary in non-S-works models. It seems that the builder doesn´t know what he builds.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:12 amPost a picture if you can ? Will clear it all up.YH0 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 25, 2024 6:53 amThanks for that. In my case the hanger bolds go inside the frame into two "rivets" made of carbon, that are around 5mm, these rivets make impossible to fix the plate against the wall or even to screw the bolds into it. I didn´t think, the plate could be not needed in this build.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2024 11:41 pm
I ordered a 1x crux pulled parts to have di2 on it. My frame didn't come with a front derailleur mount. I order the one you have pictured. I popped off the rubber grommets and screwed in the mount. I think only S Works uses the full Aethos mount that you posted. I didn't need the backing plate.
In addition to that you can just buy a tarmac sl7 fd hanger for the non SW Crux and it will work perfectly.
I do not get to find the correct pressure to find them comfortable yet agile,I feel its casing pretty stiff, maybe it's subjective... But over 600kms I am not getting used to them. They excel on gravel, that's true, not so much on asphalt, and my riding nowadays is almost always easy paths and roads. Not very often going on trails.
I have placed a 4,5mm spacer instead of the 3mm, and now there is more clearance (off course), there was not enough space for a 1mm spacer to compensate the NDS. Do you think that 1.5mm will cause me any troubles? It seems small enough to not even feel it while pedalling. I will do some testing this week. I also installed a ZTTO Chainguide to avoid any issue.CasualRider wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:24 pmWhy everyone is so afraid of small chainring clearance? I rode with 1-2mm clearance on mine for 2 years with no issues. Less of a chance of anything getting stuck in there and the frame won't flex enough to cause any damage. As long as there is a clearance you should be fine.
I completly agree that experience is the most important thing, I just put the hanger into the threaded inserts and resolved. I just was surprised that Specialized support was really stubborn and insisted that I had to mount it, otherwise I had to send the frame to them for inspection and installation of the backing plate or replacing. But anyway: all solved and working now. Thanks for your comments, it was very helpful.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Sun Mar 17, 2024 1:21 pmAlways mind boggling that people call specialized to ask for help.If you have a good LBS that works with specialized, I would ask them. Not everyone at specialized is a mechanic. Why do you still think you need that backing plate when you know you can't install it?YH0 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 16, 2024 2:43 pmThanks for offering help with this. I contacted Specialized, the official position is that you have to mount the backing plate, but all the mecanics I have consulted insist that the backing plate is not necessary in non-S-works models. It seems that the builder doesn´t know what he builds.1swiftvelo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:12 amPost a picture if you can ? Will clear it all up.YH0 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 25, 2024 6:53 am
Thanks for that. In my case the hanger bolds go inside the frame into two "rivets" made of carbon, that are around 5mm, these rivets make impossible to fix the plate against the wall or even to screw the bolds into it. I didn´t think, the plate could be not needed in this build.
In addition to that you can just buy a tarmac sl7 fd hanger for the non SW Crux and it will work perfectly.
I manage a bike shop and been a mechanic for 20 years. I asked for a picture to clear everything up. I've built tons of cruxes. SWorks needs the backing plate, to make frame lighter. Every frame Pro down has the threaded inserts. Every one did except the SWorks.
All the parts from SL8 tarmac fit. Direct hanger and headset bearings. That's really the only parts on the frames.
It's funny you said they don't excel on asphalt because they're one of the fastest gravel tires out there right now. Tested a good bit faster than the Pathfinders.Alejogon wrote: ↑Mon Mar 18, 2024 12:26 pmI do not get to find the correct pressure to find them comfortable yet agile,I feel its casing pretty stiff, maybe it's subjective... But over 600kms I am not getting used to them. They excel on gravel, that's true, not so much on asphalt, and my riding nowadays is almost always easy paths and roads. Not very often going on trails.
I found myself more comfortable on the Pathfinder Pro 42mm, that's why I think I'll go with the Sworks version soon. Or even a semi-slick, but I have never ridden an SS before and I'm not sure.
I have placed a 4,5mm spacer instead of the 3mm, and now there is more clearance (off course), there was not enough space for a 1mm spacer to compensate the NDS. Do you think that 1.5mm will cause me any troubles? It seems small enough to not even feel it while pedalling. I will do some testing this week. I also installed a ZTTO Chainguide to avoid any issue.CasualRider wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 8:24 pmWhy everyone is so afraid of small chainring clearance? I rode with 1-2mm clearance on mine for 2 years with no issues. Less of a chance of anything getting stuck in there and the frame won't flex enough to cause any damage. As long as there is a clearance you should be fine.
There is about 3mm clearance with the wide tooth and 4mm with the narrow tooth