1x Campagnolo Ekar drivetrain
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It sounds like you have a leak somewhere.
1st step, I would take the wheels and brake pads out of the bike & fit the transit pieces between the pistons (they should have come with the bike) to block the move,emt of the pistons. Then, put the bike on a stand or stand it on a clean floor with a strong rubber band around the brake lever & leve it overnight. If the lever comes back to touch the handlebar overnight, you have a fluid leak "somewhere".
Look on the floor under the bike and see if you can see oil on the floor. That will Probably tell you which "end" of the system the leak is.
The highest probability is the entry of the hose into the brake.
Inspect the area where the hose enters the rear caliper.
It could be that the leak is a simple one, as a result of a badly fitted olive or incorrectly torqued flare-nut - usually in this case you will see oil on the outside but normally, too, the lever will come almost immediately back to the handlebars (unless the leak is very small).
It could be more complicated to find because it may be oil being forced between the layers of the hydraulic hose - this would account for the slow loss of braking.
You will need to look carefully at the hose to see if it is "swollen" - which can be difficult to see if most of the hose is inside the frame. Usually, anyway, this will mean a new hose, I would not risk shortening and re-using an old hose where this has happened.
A leak at the master cylinder is not unknown but it is much less common.
A leak in the hydraulic line itself is very unusual indeed, usually caused by friction against the BB axle or similar.
I have not seen a leak in a caliper for a long time - they sometimes have what looks like traces of oil at the joint - well, they *are* traces of oil - but not from the hydraulic line - these are usually oil leaking from the grease used between the caliper "halves" to reduce any noise caused by them moving very slightly against each other, under pressure and the presence of this oil does not indicate a problem.
If you are in any doubt at all ... as @gwerziou says, please take your bike to a person qualified in and familiar with at least hydraulic brake servicing and preferably, Campgnolo disc brake systems.
A Tech-Reps work is never done ...
Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC
Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC
Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
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Wherever you read that in 2021,that information was 100% correct! Any more information from that source!
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I don't know how many third party cranks and chainrings exist for EKAR. Now with SRAM going 13 speed, that might work.
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Campa 13 chains is narrower than Sram's, which is Just a 12 spd chains. There are some compatible chainrings though.
I run these. A bit noisier than original perhaps, but they look cool:
https://ratiotechnology.com/product/rat ... 13105b7e4e
There are more but I don't know which ones specifically.
I run these. A bit noisier than original perhaps, but they look cool:
https://ratiotechnology.com/product/rat ... 13105b7e4e
There are more but I don't know which ones specifically.
Yes, I have the Ratio 13s rings which work perfectly with Ekar, as they are designed to do, mounted on a Rotor 5 arm spider on their power meter.
Ratio makes Ekar chainrings using SRAM 3-bolt and 8-bolt patterns, and also 5-arm 110 bcd configuration. Brackish cycles makes Ekar chainrings to fit Easton cranks in 36 tooth.
• A hi-zoot bike, pretty sweet
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
Ethirteen chainring and SRAM E1 crankset are fully compatible with Ekar. An Ekar chain is necessary though. I've been running and racing: Ekar chain, Ekar cassette, Sram red E1 crankset with Magene PM spider and Ethirteen chain for the whole summer now, super happy with it
So, would a Ethirteen UL chainring work with Ekar? I have a new 5dev gravel crank and put on a Ratio chainring, but 5dev sent the crank to me w a 29mm spindle - if they can't supply a 30mm I'll return it and am looking at the Ethirteen XCX Carbon gravel crank instead.Yoln wrote: ↑Sat Nov 09, 2024 7:48 pmEthirteen chainring and SRAM E1 crankset are fully compatible with Ekar. An Ekar chain is necessary though. I've been running and racing: Ekar chain, Ekar cassette, Sram red E1 crankset with Magene PM spider and Ethirteen chain for the whole summer now, super happy with it
• A hi-zoot bike, pretty sweet
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
I would assume so as it seems to be the same teeth profile as the 107bcd I have, but can't guarantee it
OK you have the Helix Race chainrings then. "Like all e*thirteen chainrings, they feature cross-compatible tooth profiles, switching seamlessly between SRAM® or Shimano® 11 and 12-speed drivetrains for absolute build freedom". Thery have the same tooth profile, so I'd be willing to give the whole thing a go if 5dev can't cough up a 30mm spindle.
• A hi-zoot bike, pretty sweet
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
• An old bike, more fun than the new one actually
• Unicycle, no brand name visible
My high level thinking is that chainring is a more versatile part than cassette.
I have had good luck with sram regular 12s eagle chairing too.
The issue is with the cassette though, because the outer width of the sram 12s chain is bigger than ekar's, you have almost zero tolerance and need absolute perfect alignement accros all cogs, which is impossible. I ended up always having some noise on some cogs.
But as long as you stick with Ekar chain, cassette and rear derailleur, I wouldn't be too worried about playing with whichever narrow-wide chainring compatible with sram 12s.
I have had good luck with sram regular 12s eagle chairing too.
The issue is with the cassette though, because the outer width of the sram 12s chain is bigger than ekar's, you have almost zero tolerance and need absolute perfect alignement accros all cogs, which is impossible. I ended up always having some noise on some cogs.
But as long as you stick with Ekar chain, cassette and rear derailleur, I wouldn't be too worried about playing with whichever narrow-wide chainring compatible with sram 12s.
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