alernative to "carbon paste"

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2 wheels
Posts: 4898
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:56 am

by 2 wheels

Here's an alternative to carbon paste:
http://www.effettomariposa.com/carbogrip_en.html
http://cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech ... vals/08-04
Effetto Mariposa CarboGrip and CarboMove

Effetto Mariposa takes a different approach to adding friction on clamped carbon parts with its new CarboGrip. Instead of a paste loaded with tiny plastic spheres, CarboGrip is a resin spray that you apply to parts right before installation. Once it sets up, Effetto Mariposa claims that you can easily clamp parts to their recommended torque spec without fear of slippage and the compound prevents corrosion and seizing, too. In addition, it isn't water-soluble so riding in the rain won't wash it away (plus it might provide a better seal to prevent water intrusion into the frame for those living in wetter climes).

If you're on the other side of the coin and find yourself with a seized carbon post in your high-end frame, Effetto Mariposa also introduces a new CarboMove part removal spray. CarboMove supposedly acts as both a penetrating lubricant and powerful solvent to eat away corrosion. Just spray it on, allow it to seep in and soak for 24 hours and hopefully it's done its magic by then. According to Effetto Mariposa, CarboMove won't do any damage to carbon composites or metals, either.

We don't currently have any seized posts in the fleet so it'll be hard for us to test this one firsthand but we wonder if it'll also work on metallic frames and posts (nor do we know if it will work better than any number of penetrating fluids already on the market). Either way, it's a reasonable cost for something that could potentially save an afflicted user thousands of dollars.

Price: US$19.95 (CarboMove, 200ml or CarboMove, 75ml)

Image
Effetto Mariposa's CarboGrip and CarboMove aim to be useful aids both for clamping carbon bits and for removing them if they seize.
Photo ©: James Huang/Cyclingnews.com

by Weenie


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maxxevv
Posts: 2012
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am

by maxxevv

For seatposts, so far the best long term solutions I've tried is industrial grade copper grease which is grittier and it doesn't dry out. Keeps out the noise too, which happens when the Tacx paste dries out. Keep that in mind. :wink:

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OLver
Posts: 532
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:40 pm
Location: Québec

by OLver

CoachPotatoBilly wrote:
Mr. Mer wrote:Why do some people on here put up such resistance to products that provide the best solutions just to save a Few bucks, Euros,Pounds,whatever?

Greasing surfaces that are the last place you want movement or spraying unknown solvents onto expensive parts is beyond me :roll:

It's quite a strange attitude really, especially when you consider the average spend on kit by visitors to this forum...

MM



***** I think a lot of times people just want to save a few dollars - sometimes it works, sometimes it comes back to bite them in the ass. The owner of my local bicycle shop, an admittedly very patient man, showed me the results of a customer who didn't want to pay $60 to have his bicycle (which he bought mail order to save money no less...) assembled by the mechanic. This person was such an incredible meathead that he stripped the front derailleur pinchbolt, stripped TWO of the four bolts on a nice Ritchey 4 axis stem along with clearly deforming the face plate and damaging the carbon bar it was supposed to hold, AND he damaged beyond repair the aluminum drive side cup on a pair of cranks by trying to install it on the non-drive side of the frame *repeatedly*....

He even had the gall to try and see if the shop owner would send the damaged parts back (which the shop owner didn't even order or sell in the first place...) as warranty/defective merchandise... I was just speechless...

I may have been speechless, but a guy I was riding with in a group ride was *walking* after being too cheap to buy $2 cloth rim tape and using electrical tape instead, on the hottest day of the year... We were about 30 miles from home when he flatted multiple times until we figured out the problem... He called his wife who probably burned significantly more than $2 worth of gas to pick him up.... He was riding newish Zipp wheels with the fancy dimples people on this website seem to be so fond of, but he was too flipping cheap to use proper rim tape...


Billy


:lol:

At the shop we call them "do-it-yourselfers" and we had a hall of fame full of stupidly broken part and photos of ridiculous things that were brought to us. Many, from the "do-it-yourselfer" point of view, were a "just riding along wreck", or defective marchandise or simply something that happened before he bought the product, but discovered the problem once at his home... three weeks after the purchase.

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doubleD
Posts: 302
Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:31 pm
Location: CT

by doubleD

theres and ongoing joke at my shop about an unnamed pro mechanic working for an unnamed team who used metal shavings and grease in the mid- late 90s worked well for them, but sounds out therrreee.....

CoachPotatoBilly
Posts: 375
Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 12:21 am
Location: Montgomery Village, MD
Contact:

by CoachPotatoBilly

doubleD wrote:theres and ongoing joke at my shop about an unnamed pro mechanic working for an unnamed team who used metal shavings and grease in the mid- late 90s worked well for them, but sounds out therrreee.....


****Heck, I read many years ago that Greg Lemond was having problems with a slipping handlebar during a stage race, so the mechanic, in his infinite wisdom, drilled a hole through the stem and into the handlebar, and threaded a WOOD screw he had to keep it from slipping again... If I had seen crap like that done on a bike I had to use to descend Alpine passes I would have freaked out and gone Pompei on that mechanic..


Billy

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Packs
Posts: 123
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:28 am
Location: Cheltenham

by Packs

Would CarboGrip work with an alloy pin in an alloy shim?
(Going into a carbon frame - but that's irrelevant)

Mr. Mer
Posts: 123
Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:07 pm
Location: UK, South of England.

by Mr. Mer

CarboGrip is a resin based aerosol product that can be used on most surfaces. It sets up a bit like a clear threadlock compound so if you do not want to grease alloy components in the traditional way or want to increase the grip between two items i.e. shim and seat pin pin in this particular case CarboGrip will work well as a substitute.

When you want to remove or undo the item/s treated, CarboMove works well as an antidote.

I see a few on line stores in the UK seem to be stocking it now eg...

https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/app/secure ... ilyID=2482

Cheers

MM
mmm......shiny

runningDoc
Posts: 55
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 4:55 am

by runningDoc

I just used some carbogrip on my bike for a pesky USE Alien Seatpost mounted onto a trek carbon frame that slides down after hard rides.

It seems exactly what "spray on model airplane glue" would be like.... smells and feels the same.

I'll try to report later to see if it actually works. It was sold to me by my LBS for $17.99.

Mr. Mer wrote:CarboGrip is a resin based aerosol product that can be used on most surfaces. It sets up a bit like a clear threadlock compound so if you do not want to grease alloy components in the traditional way or want to increase the grip between two items i.e. shim and seat pin pin in this particular case CarboGrip will work well as a substitute.

When you want to remove or undo the item/s treated, CarboMove works well as an antidote.

I see a few on line stores in the UK seem to be stocking it now eg...

https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/app/secure ... ilyID=2482

Cheers

MM

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shabbasuraj
Shop Owner
Posts: 816
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 7:57 pm
Location: shabbaland

by shabbasuraj

sebastian_nurmela wrote:tried tubular glue today as its really sticky. maybe not as good as paste. time will tell but i think its better then without.


toothpaste
Mass Weenie

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theremery
Posts: 2658
Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 10:56 am
Location: New Zealand

by theremery

Sebastien Nurmela.....what did you use tubular glue on?? Please tell me it was NOT a seat pillar (if so....here comes an ISP bike for you) or a handlebar stem to steerer tube (next time your headset bearing need replacement could make you verry verry unhappy indeed). An odd choice, I'd have thought.
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!

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stella-azzurra
Posts: 5066
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:35 am
Location: New York

by stella-azzurra

I will post this: one layer of scotch transparent tape. Do not over lap the tape just one layer on around the seat post. Try see if this works for you.
Some seat posts are not exactly the right size. They might be slightly smaller in diameter. The tape will be thin enough to take up the slack.
I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree

sfo423
Posts: 736
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 6:12 pm
Location: San Francisco

by sfo423

What about anti seize paste?
maxxevv wrote:
Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:10 pm
For seatposts, so far the best long term solutions I've tried is industrial grade copper grease which is grittier and it doesn't dry out. Keeps out the noise too, which happens when the Tacx paste dries out. Keep that in mind. :wink:

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5894
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,
What about anti seize paste?
Copper grease is exactly that.

Even though most call it it anti -seize, it's still no more than a grease loaded with copper particles.
The latter prevent ionic/electrical bonding between metals due to echange of ions such as steel and titanium for instance.

Cheers, ;)
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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