Disc rotors that could stay true more than Shimano's

[snaxez]

What’s the conversion from USD? It says $39USD

Presuming you are talking the Hope Rotors ?

From R2bike, the rotors are 73 Euro ea (with our 10% GST/VAT), with 30 Euro shipping.

Bike24 is he rotors are 80 Euro ea(with our 10% GST/VAT), with 40 Euro shipping.

$A = 0.605 Euro

Any british site, the rotors are GBP - 70 - 75 ea.

I ordered mine today from bike-components. 160/140mm black.
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Hope/ ... or-p89977/
82€ each with 22% VAT and 5€ discount code with a newsletter signup. Hope they are worth it.

[jih]

if you don't have weight on the rear , I.e. weight is on the front wouldn't you fly over the handlebars if you clamp down the front brake hard ?

If you really want to stop a bike fast, [...] And you need to train your left hand to modulate so you avoid lock up.

This is why I like to set up the right brake for the front wheel. Assuming the rider is right handed, better to have the best hand using the front brake.

[micmax]

The Shimano RT-CL900 rotor is the newest one and it's fantastic. It's from the 12 speed road stuff. They "solved" rotors with this new release, faultless.

In all honesty the problem with shimano rotors for me isn't them warping during use but rather being WARPED out of the box brand new.

I agree. Last summer i updated the ultegra rotors on my tarmac to new Dura Ace RT-CL900. They did not come true out of the box. I bend them a little with a plastic spoke tool. Since then i'm satisfied. Would buy them again.

[cleanneon98]

Currently running the RT-MT900 160/160 and they do still give me some faint rubs after some prolonged hard use, example being I came to a hard stop after hammering a technical descent yesterday and once I got going again the front rotor made some rubs for a few hundred feet. This doesn't really bother me, however is there any tangible benefit to move from the RT-MT900 to the RT-CL900 in the same size?

[Mr.Gib]

I am having issues with my MT900's. The groupset is Dura Ace 11 speed. I always found that the front brake struggled under hard braking. It would start too grabby and then get raspy and loose power if I pulled the levers hard. Just really poor modulation. Now after a winter hanging on the wall, the performance of the front brake is crap. Poor power and beyond belief howling noise if I really squeeze. Sanded the pads down about 20% and cleaned the rotors with isopropyl. Hardly better. Everything is tight and dry, lever feel is correct, but still bad braking...

Good to see this come up again. I will update. I think the problem was with the pads. It was like they were a bit scorched - there was some discoloration - darker. I sanded a bit more until I achieve a new looking surface. After some bedding-in the performance came back. Perhaps the winter hanging on the wall, dust accumulation, etc. had something to do with the problem.

I too would like a definitive answer to this:

is there any tangible benefit to move from the RT-MT900 to the RT-CL900 in the same size?

[CamW]

Have bough a few parts from this supplier, email today with some new center lock discs.

https://tipartstitanium.com/products/16 ... 9f58&_ss=r

I'd almost give them a go at that price, but no 140mm version

I gave one a go. Broke it within 1km

[gurk700]

Question for OP: When rotors start rubbing after braking from high speed, how long do they rub for?

A) few seconds then silence
B) remainder of the ride and until I true them again at home

[MichaelB]

Have bough a few parts from this supplier, email today with some new center lock discs.

https://tipartstitanium.com/products/16 ... 9f58&_ss=r

I'd almost give them a go at that price, but no 140mm version

I gave one a go. Broke it within 1km

Crikey.

Bugger and time to keep looking !!!