Roval Rapide Cockpit

[kppolich]

Posting this again because the included headset bolt looks just that bad.
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Heads up for anyone moving to the 1 piece cockpit, the top cap and bolt couldn't been designed better as the top cap bolt stands proud of the aero top cap itself.


Before:


I decided to take matters into my own hands with a drill and metal file.
It took 5-10 minutes, most likely to the hardened steel bolt that comes with the Rapide Cockpit, but I have it flush.
Next step is to touch up the exposed silver areas with some metal bluing or black paint.

Pics:







And 5 mins worth of black spray paint

[kofsw4]

I want to swap the two piece bar/stem on my SL7 for the one piece cockpit and so have read through this entire thread. Please could somebody confirm my understanding of a couple of things.

I currently have a 10mm spacer below the stem and 5mm above. If I replace the 34mm stack height SL7 stem for the 41mm stack height cockpit keeping the 10mm spacer in place then:

1. The height of the centre of my new 'stem' and therefore my handlebars will be 3.5mm higher?

2. I will no longer need a spacer on top of the cockpit as the extra steerer height will be taken up by the extra stack of the cockpit?

Thanks

[bikerzero]

Want to add my experience. I have 2 roval cockpit, one for myself and one for my wife. Hence 2 different caps. None of the SL7, SL6, or the bolt that came with the cockpit would sit flush with that top cap. After reading through these pages, I got 2 of the Aetho top cap with bolts to test out. The Aetho top cap bolt is indeed smaller than all the other ones. Just a little. Here is the kicker. Both of these Aethos bolts sit flush with one of the cap but not the other one. I took a closer look and the tapering of the countersunk in the top cap varies between the 2. lol. Leave it to Specialized for quality control. I think in conclusion is that the Aethos bolts 'can' be flush but it depends on the cap. Good luck.

[cyclespeed]

There is really no point in using a heavy steel bolt (that can also rust) in the top cap. The torque required is tiny. Never understood why bike makers insist on using a heavy bolt here.

I used all and dropped 6g immediately. Had to chamfer it like this so it sits flush.

[Sander7721]

There is really no point in using a heavy steel bolt (that can also rust) in the top cap. The torque required is tiny. Never understood why bike makers insist on using a heavy bolt here.

I used all and dropped 6g immediately. Had to chamfer it like this so it sits flush.

IMG_5266 Large.jpeg

Hey Cyclespeed

I see you used a bolt also for the seat post wedge
What bolts have you replaced on the bike and where did you order them from.
Also if you could tell me the sizes as well that will help when ordering


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[cyclespeed]

There is really no point in using a heavy steel bolt (that can also rust) in the top cap. The torque required is tiny. Never understood why bike makers insist on using a heavy bolt here.

I used all and dropped 6g immediately. Had to chamfer it like this so it sits flush.
IMG_5266 Large.jpeg

Hey Cyclespeed

I see you used a bolt also for the seat post wedge
What bolts have you replaced on the bike and where did you order them from.
Also if you could tell me the sizes as well that will help when ordering


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I have had some Probolt alloy bolts in my tool kit for a while. Very light and strong enough, anodised in different colours.

Headset cap and seatpost wedge are M6 and the calliper bolts are M5. (I used Titanium here).

Disc bolts are M4 I think. I used a mixture, 3 alu, 3 ti on each disc.

[EdSawyer]

Probolt USA is a good supplier of aluminum colored bolts. Also r2-bike. I use aluminum in those locations too.

PSA for those looking: performancebike has the 38/115 roval cockpit in stock:

https://www.performancebike.com/special ... 6/p1500526

I would have bought one there except I already ordered the Darimo Nexum drag, and if I wanted the roval I'd wait to get from spesh directly (because reasons)

[OtterSpace]

There is really no point in using a heavy steel bolt (that can also rust) in the top cap. The torque required is tiny. Never understood why bike makers insist on using a heavy bolt here.

I agree with you for an observant user who maintains their bikes. However, Specialized had a recall for the SL7 which necessitated fork inspections and part changes and I think they have had other headset recalls before (SL4 from memory).

It doesn't need to be steel, and I would replace it personally like you, however for a big company the risk and small extra cost isnt worth it as most people dont care or know what bolts their bike uses. The risk is recalls and liability if the headset fails of which the top bolt is one of the less important parts.

Their bigger issues have been on the internal compression plug and external routing and bearing compression elements were they are now very risk averse however I dont think the extra cost of Ti, and extra parts to stock, are worth it for a risky assembly the way Specialized views things.

[YH0]

Hi guys,

I got this and have a question. The distance between the compression plug an the top of the "stem edge" is a bit more of 1mm, do you think that´s ok or I should file the fork tube a little bit?

Thanks.

[BikeTyson]

Can't decide on sizing for this cockpit. I'm currently riding 120 stem, 80 reach, with 40 width and levers turned in to measure 37 at the hoods. I'm going back and forth between the 38/115 and the 40/120. The 40/120 gives me the most similar to what I have, though 5mm shorter reach. I like to sprint and I'm a fairly big guy, so I like my current 42 drops which I would get with the Roval. Basically an aero version of what I'm running. But then I think I'd like to go narrower down to 38s. I'm already riding my levers at 37, so I know at worst I could match this, and if I wanted could go narrower. But with a 115 stem and 75 reach, I'd be going 1cm shorter in total reach. I don't think it would be that crazy. My other worry is the 40 in the drops compared to 42 now. I don't know how the narrower drops would feel during sprints. What do you guys think?

Edit: The other option is a two piece Enve In Route stem with Aero bar. It would be the best of both worlds with narrow tops and wider drops (either 37/42 or 39/44). But it would end up being like 150g heavier with the two-piece system. And I'm not waiting for nor paying $1200 for the Enve 1-piece setup.

[Tooslow]

Sad statement that on a $20k bike you have to modify or replace a top cap screw that sits proud of the cap.

[Jz91]

Sad statement that on a $20k bike you have to modify or replace a top cap screw that sits proud of the cap.

And that's not even the only issue...cannot really comprehend how this bar apparently gets so much love from so many people

[EdSawyer]

It's a decent bar, esp if you can get it at a discount. Maybe not the lightest or best integrated but a reliable choice and widely available.

[Jz91]

Yeah, the only reason to get this is because of lack of alternative options.

To sum up this bar offers:

Integration...or lack thereof, with the worst offeneders being those running brake lines with some slack. Any bar longer than 100mm also causes sore eyes having the cables running underneath the whole stem.

Standard spacers printed possibly with the worst machine ever also leaving disturbing gaps between the cap and the frame.

Standard computer mount with a ridiculous and pointless downward angle. They clearly have just recycled this from the old stems.

As above, even the bolt does not sit flush.

I mean, is there anything else they could have got wrong? Still can't believe it passed any form of QC when they designed this or that someone said that it is appropriate for the bike it was designed for.

[Beancouter]

Don’t think this has been posted, but if you have got an issue with the top cap altitude are now selling one…. 70Euro plus 14 shipping

https://alpitude.cc/product/sl8-roval-r ... n-top-cap/


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