Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL8

[fastforageezer]

I just ordered an 11/34 cassette to replace the stock 11/30. Do I need a new chain as well?

Yes.
No.
Depends.

Gotta love WW. Last one is right but needs some detail. Shift your current setup onto the big chainring/big cog combination and see how much wrap is left. If the rear derailleur cage is close to maxed out, yes you need a new chain. If you've got a fair amount of travel left on your rear derailleur cage, you should be OK. If in doubt take a pic in the big/big combination and post.

Even if it's not going to wrap you can set your Di2 up to do synchro shifting and lock out the biggest cog(s) with the large chainring (although I think it's good practice to always have your chain sized to work in the big/big combo). Keep in mind with Synchro you can still shift the front manually. This is how I have mine set up. For shifting from the large chainring to small, I generally do it manually so the shift doesn't happen when I don't expect it. But it's there if I forget. I usually let the synchro shift do the shift from small to large as that shift doesn't bother me as much and doesn't generally happen under load.

Don't forget you'll need to adjust the B screw to move the derailleur further away from the cassette with the 34. Shimano provides a little guide to set the gap but if you don't have it adjust until there's no grinding against the cassette plus a little more.

[ultyguy]

Hi guys, what length Shimano EW 300 cable do I need for a size 56 please?
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ill principe]

Sorry to sound like a broken record since I have asked this before. But since I didn´t get any replies, and cant google a clear answer either I´lll try on e more time:

I want to replicate the stack/geo of an SL7 with mimimum amount of spacers (lower transition+upper transition + 6 degree Tarmac stem) on a SL8 with Roval Rapide cockpit. Should I use:

The one-piece dust cover/transition spacer
or the two part solution
Dust Cover + transition spacer

Escape collective deep dive states "there was another if upgrading to the Rapide one-piece cockpit, and the third is a one-piece Rapide cockpit spacer for a slammed fit that emulates using a -12° stem (stock Rapide has the stem at -6°)". But I wonder I the height difference btw these options is really big enough to achieve this.

[Whipit]

Sorry to sound like a broken record since I have asked this before. But since I didn´t get any replies, and cant google a clear answer either I´lll try on e more time:

I want to replicate the stack/geo of an SL7 with mimimum amount of spacers (lower transition+upper transition + 6 degree Tarmac stem) on a SL8 with Roval Rapide cockpit. Should I use:

The one-piece dust cover/transition spacer
or the two part solution
Dust Cover + transition spacer

Escape collective deep dive states "there was another if upgrading to the Rapide one-piece cockpit, and the third is a one-piece Rapide cockpit spacer for a slammed fit that emulates using a -12° stem (stock Rapide has the stem at -6°)". But I wonder I the height difference btw these options is really big enough to achieve this.

This is how I ensure that everything lines up between bikes. I've made a public copy of the sheet you can use.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

Make sure all the informaiton for the bars, stem and spacers are correct on the SL7, then you should be able to adjust the spacer column until the stack matches on the SL8.

The difference between a -6 and -12 stem is 12mm at 120mm if that also helps.

[ill principe]

Unfortunately I dont have the SL7 anymore, so I need the measurements for the lower transition+upper transition spacers for SL7. Will see if I can find these, appreciate your effort!

Another way of of phasing my question is; What spacers are included in Specializeds "stack to stem" measurement for the SL8? Since the "stack to stem" number are identical for SL7 and SL8 and I think its safe to assume that the SL7 numbers include the lower transition+upper transition it boils down to if the one or two piece sparts was used for the SL8 measurements.

[fastforageezer]

Unfortunately I dont have the SL7 anymore, so I need the measurements for the lower transition+upper transition spacers for SL7. Will see if I can find these, appreciate your effort!

Another way of of phasing my question is; What spacers are included in Specializeds "stack to stem" measurement for the SL8? Since the "stack to stem" number are identical for SL7 and SL8 and I think its safe to assume that the SL7 numbers include the lower transition+upper transition it boils down to if the one or two piece sparts was used for the SL8 measurements.

The difference between the stack, and the "stack to stem," is 8mm. With my digital calipers I measured the "slammed' single spacer as 7.7mm, and the standard top & bottom transition spacers together as 10.6mm. So rounding those off, the "stack to stem" number is with the single "slammed" spacer.

Hope this helps.

[ill principe]

That very much helped! Thanks!

[js]

According to Shimano, szing of a chain should be done with respect to the cassette size.



One thing I found very interesting / a bit concerrning is that using this sizing method on a 34 (or 36) cassette results in a slack chain when in the small ring and smallest four cogs. That's not a combination most would ever want to use, and it's easily removed as an option depending how you set up your Di2, but it's strange that Shimano recommends a chain length that their cage wrap can't keep taut.

[Erikhoffie]

check inside the dropouts and make sure there isnt some debris or tape or something...if you havent done that already. If not, probably warranty.

Checked everything...dropouts are clean, all wheels I've tried are centered and trued! If you ride the bike the front wheel is apparently more on the right side. You can't align the stem with the wheel!

I will bring it back to my dealer for a check to warranty this!

Check your hub endcaps. I tried the dtswiss arc 1400 wheels and a bit off, but with the zipp 303 it's centered.

Hi,
thanks for your advices! All wheels I've tried are not centered in my fork (Dt Swiss 1450, Roval rapide clx, Hunt 40, Zipp 303) - I don't think that this is a wheel problem...I think it's the fork! Next week I have an appointment with my dealer and he will contact specialized about this issue!

What was the outcome of this, new fork?
Mine is also not really centered.

[spenso]

Just finished the build of this. Have to say it was the easiest build I've ever done, comes in at 6.7kg as it is in the picture.

[dtm311]

I think both Shimano and SRAM are fine with big-big but design against little-little because of the propensity for chain rub.

[dtm311]

Just finished the build of this. Have to say it was the easiest build I've ever done, comes in at 6.7kg as it is in the picture.

SL8-smaller.jpg

Looks great! Love the color w/ those wheels, cool texure.

[boyce89976]

Checked everything...dropouts are clean, all wheels I've tried are centered and trued! If you ride the bike the front wheel is apparently more on the right side. You can't align the stem with the wheel!

I will bring it back to my dealer for a check to warranty this!

Check your hub endcaps. I tried the dtswiss arc 1400 wheels and a bit off, but with the zipp 303 it's centered.

Hi,
thanks for your advices! All wheels I've tried are not centered in my fork (Dt Swiss 1450, Roval rapide clx, Hunt 40, Zipp 303) - I don't think that this is a wheel problem...I think it's the fork! Next week I have an appointment with my dealer and he will contact specialized about this issue!

What was the outcome of this, new fork?
Mine is also not really centered.

I keep thinking mine isn't centered based on the assymetrical design to accomodate the front brake rotor. I don't know this, but I would highly doubt the fork is the issue. Seems more likely it would be an out of spec spacer.

[ultyguy]

Ps how easy is it to travel with the rapids cockpit set up? Do you just unscrew the whole thing? Does that mess up the headset?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mikehhhhhhh]

Ps how easy is it to travel with the rapids cockpit set up? Do you just unscrew the whole thing? Does that mess up the headset?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just remove it like any other stem. I place an old stem in its place just to stop the fork etc rattling around in the headtube.