Thanks
Cannondale SuperSix Evo4
Moderator: robbosmans
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Okay, fun party time.
I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
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I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
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Picked up my SSE at the LBS today (they changed the freehub on my rear wheel to finally fit my 12 speed cassette). The mechanic told me that the Cannondale distributor has sent them "assembled" Supersixes without the shims around the delta steerer!
Cannondale Supersixevo 4 (7.05 kg)
Retired: Chapter2, Tarmac SWorks SL6, Orbea, Dogma F8\F10, LOW, Wilier, Ridley Noah, Cervelo R3\R5\S2\Aspero, Time Fluidity, Lapierre Pulsium, Cyfac, Felt, Klein, Cannondale pre-CAAD aluminum
Retired: Chapter2, Tarmac SWorks SL6, Orbea, Dogma F8\F10, LOW, Wilier, Ridley Noah, Cervelo R3\R5\S2\Aspero, Time Fluidity, Lapierre Pulsium, Cyfac, Felt, Klein, Cannondale pre-CAAD aluminum
- Dan Gerous
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So you have one free port on a shifter right? You could run a Y-shaped wire into that last port, the other two ends plug into each remote shifters.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2023 1:36 amOkay, fun party time.
I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
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So, I believe I have an E-TUBE port and a sprint shifter port. I think I’ll probably have to get a four port junction box if I want to do it.Dan Gerous wrote:So you have one free port on a shifter right? You could run a Y-shaped wire into that last port, the other two ends plug into each remote shifters.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2023 1:36 amOkay, fun party time.
I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
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I’ll probably just scrap the hardwiring idea, because I don’t think it works without the junction box (I don’t think I can use a satellite shifter port to connect the shifter to the battery. You all correct me if I’m wrong.
That would be a rough wiring diagram. I don’t think I can use the second port to connect the two shifters.
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Confirmed. Does not work. Only shows one lever as being wired. Ugh.
I suppose, in theory a Y-cable would work, but I don’t think they’ve made one for EW300 yet have they?
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I suppose, in theory a Y-cable would work, but I don’t think they’ve made one for EW300 yet have they?
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Also, because people will care, my 44cm Vision Trimax Carbon bars weighed 236g
The 110mm Conceal stem without the Garmin mount was 213g.
The garmin mount for the conceal stem with the GoPro attachment weighed 33g.
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The 110mm Conceal stem without the Garmin mount was 213g.
The garmin mount for the conceal stem with the GoPro attachment weighed 33g.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
RTFM.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2023 1:36 amOkay, fun party time.
I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/RAGN010/overall_diagram
JC304 doesn't need to go anywhere in particular. Put a couple of pads of sticky backed foam on or bubble wrap it, stick it on the downtube. It's barely any more effort than your shifter to shifter plan and all you need is one more cable and a £25 junction box. It's really not the end of the world!
Thanks! So the bar is not that heavy, but the stem, as anticipated, is a tank. Why are all the "aero" stems so heavy? I guess there is just more material there?LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2023 4:12 amAlso, because people will care, my 44cm Vision Trimax Carbon bars weighed 236g
The 110mm Conceal stem without the Garmin mount was 213g.
The garmin mount for the conceal stem with the GoPro attachment weighed 33g.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
2015 Wilier Zero.7 Rim - 6.37kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
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Awesome, thanks.Karvalo wrote:RTFM.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Fri May 26, 2023 1:36 amOkay, fun party time.
I decided that I want to try the Coefficient RR bar again (I’ve liked it in the past) and to replace the 44cm (ugh) Vision Trimax Carbon. Since the RR bar has a spot for climbing shifters, I thought I’d give those a try as well. While I’m at it, I said, I might as well hardwire the shifters to the battery as I kind of prefer that (my hydraulic cables are too short, so I have to run some new ones anyway). After finally figuring out the routing scheme for the battery, I got the battery wired up with a long EW300 wire and my rear hydro line routed. Everything looking good after a bit of cursing.
However, I rolled back the hoods on my R8170 brifters to discover 2 ports instead of 3. NOOOOOOOO.
I was going to run the long EW300 wire from the battery to one shifter and then a shorter cable to the other shifter. That should work. However, in order to use the remote shifters, I guess I’m going to have to get a junction box. Crap.
I’m guessing it’s more trouble than it’s worth and I’m not sure where I’d even put a junction box (in one end of the bars?). Any suggestions?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/RAGN010/overall_diagram
JC304 doesn't need to go anywhere in particular. Put a couple of pads of sticky backed foam on or bubble wrap it, stick it on the downtube. It's barely any more effort than your shifter to shifter plan and all you need is one more cable and a £25 junction box. It's really not the end of the world!
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Nice. You’ll love it.OUGrad05 wrote:It's here
First ride is tomorrow. 62 miles.
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If you decide to get rid of that Foil in 61cm (it seems) - let me know
His: Orbea Orca OMX
Hers: Cannondale Synapse HM Disc
Hers: Cannondale Synapse HM Disc
Anyone know if the slam that stem bearing cover will work on the new super six?
Looking at pairing that bearing cover with an extralite stem and 3t aeroflux bars for internal cable routing, just not 100% it will all work as planned together.
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Looking at pairing that bearing cover with an extralite stem and 3t aeroflux bars for internal cable routing, just not 100% it will all work as planned together.
Sent from my SM-A736B using Tapatalk
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- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
ChoofWorm wrote: ↑Sat May 27, 2023 4:44 amAnyone know if the slam that stem bearing cover will work on the new super six?
Looking at pairing that bearing cover with an extralite stem and 3t aeroflux bars for internal cable routing, just not 100% it will all work as planned together.
Sent from my SM-A736B using Tapatalk
SlamTheStem bearing covers won’t work with ICR setups.
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
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