SRAM AXS Chain life - Very durable?
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Ive seen this on the Sram AXS Facebook group. Not sure if it a regional manufacturer mistake or if its global.
I'm really curious about AXS chain lomngevity and wear pattern.
I have just under 4,000 miles (~6,400km) on my Red flattop chain (and cassette + chainrings). The cahin reads less than 0.05% wear per both the SRAM recommended Park CC-4 & Pedro's tools, but I thought that it should surely be changed after this many miles, so I put on a new one.
My fresh chain skips in the large cassette cog and crunches on the small ring up front telling me that my rings and cassette are worn out. The drivetrain has always been kept very clean and lubed w either NFS or Synergetic. Upon inspection, the teeth do have that characteristic worn patterm.
This makes me question the reliability of the recommended tools with these chains. This has become an expensive problem.
I have just under 4,000 miles (~6,400km) on my Red flattop chain (and cassette + chainrings). The cahin reads less than 0.05% wear per both the SRAM recommended Park CC-4 & Pedro's tools, but I thought that it should surely be changed after this many miles, so I put on a new one.
My fresh chain skips in the large cassette cog and crunches on the small ring up front telling me that my rings and cassette are worn out. The drivetrain has always been kept very clean and lubed w either NFS or Synergetic. Upon inspection, the teeth do have that characteristic worn patterm.
This makes me question the reliability of the recommended tools with these chains. This has become an expensive problem.
Chain wear isnt the same for everyone.. I currently have 5000 miles on one of my Red Flattops. I have waxed it from day one and only ridden in the rain 3 times.. I also take on gravel roads ow and then..kentf14 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 5:32 pmI'm really curious about AXS chain lomngevity and wear pattern.
I have just under 4,000 miles (~6,400km) on my Red flattop chain (and cassette + chainrings). The cahin reads less than 0.05% wear per both the SRAM recommended Park CC-4 & Pedro's tools, but I thought that it should surely be changed after this many miles, so I put on a new one.
My fresh chain skips in the large cassette cog and crunches on the small ring up front telling me that my rings and cassette are worn out. The drivetrain has always been kept very clean and lubed w either NFS or Synergetic. Upon inspection, the teeth do have that characteristic worn patterm.
This makes me question the reliability of the recommended tools with these chains. This has become an expensive problem.
Others will vary, if you use traditional lube and ride dirty roads and are not diligent about cleaning the chain it will wear faster, just like any chain.
Much appreciated gSporco. Chain wear is always a big variable and depnds on many factors. I too ride my flattop on nice roads in good weather and am dilligent about wiping off the side plates w thourough cleaning and re-lubing as needed. This setup is on a road bike and rarely sees grit. I don't use wax based lube as I prefer the lower noise of traditional lubes. I do ride a lot of hills, but am not particularly heavy for my height @ 172lbs.
In my case, the 4K chain checks out as still within spec, but the rings and cogs are clearly worn out and won't accept a fresh chain. It seems to me that the wear measurement guidance may not be as precise as SRAM intends it to be.
In my case, the 4K chain checks out as still within spec, but the rings and cogs are clearly worn out and won't accept a fresh chain. It seems to me that the wear measurement guidance may not be as precise as SRAM intends it to be.
13000km on my Red AXS 12s flattop on Red XPLR: 44t single chainring + 10-44t cassette.
I've only done 3 gravel rides with it (actual gravel roads, no MTB), everything else on the road with road tires.
I clean and degrease it thoroughly around once a month or after a wet/dirty ride. Once or twice a week, after every 150km or so, I give it a good fast-degrease with "Mucoff High-Pressure Quick Drying Degreaser" and a rag (including jockey wheels and chainring), then I re-apply one drop per roller of "Mucoff C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube", then clean the excess with the cloth.
I have the "Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II", new version specific for 12s and it won't go into the 0.5% tab, but I just measured it with the venier caliper technique and I got 0.56%
Brand new chain 5 links (from roller to roller; outer to outer link) = ~106.4mm (average)
Old chain = 107.00mm
Cross multiplication:
106.4mm <-> 100%
107.0mm <-> X%
x = 107.0 * 100 / 106.4 = 100.56 = +0.56%
It's tricky to measure like this because the vernier caliper upper jaws (for inside measurements) don't fit very well and they can slide in between the roller and the link plates, I took a few measurements and averaged it.
I just replaced it with a new one. The 13k km old cassette seems to go well with the new chain, smooth, no jumps, no clickclickclick.
I've had one plate broken like that and replaced the whole link with another one from a new chain.
I was surprised. This is the first time I have broken a SRAM chain in 20 years... since I stopped using Shimano.
Also I reckon it's the front derailleur that f*cks up the chains the most, apart from grease+dirt. 2x = more shifts and, in real life, more chain-crossing.
I've only done 3 gravel rides with it (actual gravel roads, no MTB), everything else on the road with road tires.
I clean and degrease it thoroughly around once a month or after a wet/dirty ride. Once or twice a week, after every 150km or so, I give it a good fast-degrease with "Mucoff High-Pressure Quick Drying Degreaser" and a rag (including jockey wheels and chainring), then I re-apply one drop per roller of "Mucoff C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube", then clean the excess with the cloth.
I have the "Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II", new version specific for 12s and it won't go into the 0.5% tab, but I just measured it with the venier caliper technique and I got 0.56%
Brand new chain 5 links (from roller to roller; outer to outer link) = ~106.4mm (average)
Old chain = 107.00mm
Cross multiplication:
106.4mm <-> 100%
107.0mm <-> X%
x = 107.0 * 100 / 106.4 = 100.56 = +0.56%
It's tricky to measure like this because the vernier caliper upper jaws (for inside measurements) don't fit very well and they can slide in between the roller and the link plates, I took a few measurements and averaged it.
I just replaced it with a new one. The 13k km old cassette seems to go well with the new chain, smooth, no jumps, no clickclickclick.
I've had one plate broken like that and replaced the whole link with another one from a new chain.
I was surprised. This is the first time I have broken a SRAM chain in 20 years... since I stopped using Shimano.
Also I reckon it's the front derailleur that f*cks up the chains the most, apart from grease+dirt. 2x = more shifts and, in real life, more chain-crossing.
A precision 12 inch rule will measure the true elongation of any chain. Place one end on the edge of a pin. The pin at the other end will be completely covered. When half of that covered pin is exposed, you're a little over 0.5% elongation. Unfortunately, elongation can be much less, but roller wear alone can cause new-chain skip. Alternate the use of several chains and you'll never get new-chain skip, over the life of those chains. As already mentioned, caliper checks between nearby links can reveal roller and bushing wear, but there's no magic percentage to change at.
