110 bcd chairing : best shifting-quality/weight ratio
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi,
I am suffering shifting PTSD every time I am approaching a climb. I've had mixed experience with Extralite shifting quality and terrible experience with TA-spécialité Syrius.
The weightweenie in me would like to give another shot at lightweight rings with Stronglight CT2, but I am doubting that it's gonna be a massive shifting improvement.
On the other end I'm also considering better shifting and slightly beefier rings like Praxis Buzz, Rotor NoQ and even Absolute Black, but that's getting really heavy...
I feel Wickwerks is a bit overkill for me at this stage.
Also, what about SRAM? Anything good there? I heard they lack stifness but that's about it
Running a Quarq Dzero with 110bcd spider. Derailleur is Campy SR 11 mech.
I am suffering shifting PTSD every time I am approaching a climb. I've had mixed experience with Extralite shifting quality and terrible experience with TA-spécialité Syrius.
The weightweenie in me would like to give another shot at lightweight rings with Stronglight CT2, but I am doubting that it's gonna be a massive shifting improvement.
On the other end I'm also considering better shifting and slightly beefier rings like Praxis Buzz, Rotor NoQ and even Absolute Black, but that's getting really heavy...
I feel Wickwerks is a bit overkill for me at this stage.
Also, what about SRAM? Anything good there? I heard they lack stifness but that's about it
Running a Quarq Dzero with 110bcd spider. Derailleur is Campy SR 11 mech.
Last edited by Yoln on Wed Aug 04, 2021 8:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Litespeed Gravel Ultimate : https://tinyurl.com/zvxxy8zk
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
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Which crank are you running? I have had good experience with Shimano, Praxis, Absolute Black, and Carbon-Ti rings. Mixed with Rotor (older expereince from ten years back) and Sram.
Lots of bikes: currently riding Enve Melee, Krypton Pro, S Works Crux, S Works Epic Evo, SL7.
In build: SW SL8
In build: SW SL8
Running a Quarq Dzero with 110bcd spider. Derailleur is Campy SR 11 mech.
I should take a look at carbon-ti indeed, thanks
Litespeed Gravel Ultimate : https://tinyurl.com/zvxxy8zk
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
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- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2021 8:19 pm
Love my Absolute Black! Looks are stunning, perfomance is really good. Weight seems pretty solid too!
I have had/tried the Extralite’s (since sold) and the TA’s and weren’t happy with either. Have the BOR’s in mid and full compact on my WW bike. Finicky to get right but once set I find the shifting to be very close and precise not Shimano OEM but a very close second.....recommended
BB
Coffee & carbon
Coffee & carbon
Thank you all
Given what I gathered here and there... I guess I just have to pick my poison now, probably betweem, BOR, Praxis and Absolute Black
Litespeed Gravel Ultimate : https://tinyurl.com/zvxxy8zk
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
Wilier “Cento Ramato“ : https://tinyurl.com/29vs8vre
#RETIRED# Lynskey “the Do-it-all Helix” :https://tinyurl.com/bdmb5y24
I bought a pair of bor chainrings, worst piece of shit I have ever owned, couldn't get them to shift properly, and when you where in the big ring and and went on to the second the largest cog, it threw the chain off.
I tried to contact bor, but I only got a really arrogant answer back.
But I love my stronglight, I can get them to shift perfectly and can cross chain without any issues.
I tried to contact bor, but I only got a really arrogant answer back.
But I love my stronglight, I can get them to shift perfectly and can cross chain without any issues.
Yep, found them finicky to get right [Di2 9150] but excellent once set. Not doubting your issue with the throwing of the chain for one moment but haven’t experienced it in my situation. Your BOR sentiments echo mine for the TA’s and the Extralite’s.....Attermann wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 4:47 amI bought a pair of bor chainrings, worst piece of shit I have ever owned, couldn't get them to shift properly, and when you where in the big ring and and went on to the second the largest cog, it threw the chain off.
I tried to contact bor, but I only got a really arrogant answer back.
But I love my stronglight, I can get them to shift perfectly and can cross chain without any issues.
BB
Coffee & carbon
Coffee & carbon
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- Posts: 1271
- Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:09 am
Odd, I had great luck with BORs, no issues setting up with mech or electronic. Shifted great!
No shifting issues for me with Stronglight CT2, with Sram Red / Force 10 or 11 speed (just note that Sram Red 10 was without a Sram Red 10 speed FD - which was bad - but with a Shimano DA 7800 FD).
Running extralites with sram red mechanical (bb30 crank, 7900fd). It works ok as long as you dial in the limit screws just right and run a chaincatcher.
However if you come from a foolproof shimano setup then you might not have the patience to set it up.
These are not for racing. But you can take some KOMs with them, no problem.
However if you come from a foolproof shimano setup then you might not have the patience to set it up.
These are not for racing. But you can take some KOMs with them, no problem.
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Great table! Ramps, shift pins and chainring lateral stiffness would be factors effecting shift performance I imagine. But throwing off a chain when cross chaining seems more like a tooth profile issue?
Shimano 5x110 11-speed chainrings for OEM crankset FC-RS500
Y1PR34010 Chainring 34T-MH for 50-34T (Silver)
Y1PR34000 Chainring 34T-MH for 50-34T (Black)
Y1PR36010 Chainring 36T-MJ for 46-36T/52-36T (Silver) ~ 39g
Y1PR36000 Chainring 36T-MJ for 46-36T/52-36T (Black) ~ 39g
Y1PR98010 Chainring 46T-MJ for 46-36T (Silver) ~ 93 g
Y1PR98020 Chainring 46T-MJ for 46-36T (Black) ~ 93 g
Y1PR98030 Chainring 50T-MH for 50-34T (Silver) ~ 103 g
Y1PR98040 Chainring 50T-MH for 50-34T (Black) ~ 103 g
Y1PR98050 Chainring 52T-MJ for 52-36T (Silver) ~ 122 g
Y1PR98060 Chainring 52T-MJ for 52-36T (Black) ~ 122 g
Y1PR34010 Chainring 34T-MH for 50-34T (Silver)
Y1PR34000 Chainring 34T-MH for 50-34T (Black)
Y1PR36010 Chainring 36T-MJ for 46-36T/52-36T (Silver) ~ 39g
Y1PR36000 Chainring 36T-MJ for 46-36T/52-36T (Black) ~ 39g
Y1PR98010 Chainring 46T-MJ for 46-36T (Silver) ~ 93 g
Y1PR98020 Chainring 46T-MJ for 46-36T (Black) ~ 93 g
Y1PR98030 Chainring 50T-MH for 50-34T (Silver) ~ 103 g
Y1PR98040 Chainring 50T-MH for 50-34T (Black) ~ 103 g
Y1PR98050 Chainring 52T-MJ for 52-36T (Silver) ~ 122 g
Y1PR98060 Chainring 52T-MJ for 52-36T (Black) ~ 122 g
'
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I have the same crank/chainrings but an FD-9000. My fix is janky but it basically works. What I did was I played with the crank spacers so the crank is offset towards the NDS so the FD doesn't have to go to the extremes of its travel to get onto the big ring. Then I offset my cleats the other way to keep my feet in the right position. I am running Speedplays. Obviously this all depends on your cleat situation, but this is something to consider.
I'm still mulling a switch to 1x but I'd basically need a custom cassette at this point as nothing I'm seeing quite does what I want. But that's another thread
I'm still mulling a switch to 1x but I'd basically need a custom cassette at this point as nothing I'm seeing quite does what I want. But that's another thread