Factor Ostro

[kode54]

Maybe coat the matte paint with a ceramic coating. It’ll help to keep it clean before you hit the road with it.

[KarlGLS]

Maybe coat the matte paint with a ceramic coating. It’ll help to keep it clean before you hit the road with it.

I was about to advice the same

[kode54]

Haha. Yeah. You’d be surprised how well the bike looks dirty. It doesn’t affect the matte finish (I have matte on a few bike) and have even used a different hybrid wax on my titanium frame. Fingerprints, dirt, water are minimized. For the Ti bike, I use a cheap Turtle Wax Hybrid Flex spray wax. On the painted surfaces, I use whatever I use on the car. Like Adam’s graphene ceramic spray coating or AvalonKing armor shield lite, but you can use any SiO2 coating. They all work pretty much the same. The Avalon king can be used wet or dry and that’s what I use most of the time. A little goes a long way so use sparingly on cloth and wipe away.

[JanM]

Does anyone know a retailer in europe/germany which still has frame sets with the "Flicker" colorway in stock? The retailers I've contacted told me it's sold out and that they won't get new stock of it (seems EoL since the pros of ISN switched to the "racing for Change" paint scheme).

@kode54 & KarlGLS I've been long on the fence about ceramic coating my (soon to be bought) ostro - might be a bit OT now, but since you've suggested it: How long does it actually last (especially on the right seat stay, which inevitably will see a few drops of chain/drive train degreaser)? And how does the reapplying after a given time work - do you have to remove/polish the leftovers of the old coating before renewing it? In that case I (just me personally) would just stick to waxing my frame every now and then, just to avoid having to work abrasive on my f'ing expensive frame every year

[KarlGLS]

Does anyone know a retailer in europe/germany which still has frame sets with the "Flicker" colorway in stock? The retailers I've contacted told me it's sold out and that they won't get new stock of it (seems EoL since the pros of ISN switched to the "racing for Change" paint scheme).

@kode54 & KarlGLS I've been long on the fence about ceramic coating my (soon to be bought) ostro - might be a bit OT now, but since you've suggested it: How long does it actually last (especially on the right seat stay, which inevitably will see a few drops of chain/drive train degreaser)? And how does the reapplying after a given time work - do you have to remove/polish the leftovers of the old coating before renewing it? In that case I (just me personally) would just stick to waxing my frame every now and then, just to avoid having to work abrasive on my f'ing expensive frame every year

From my ex wt mechanic point of view:

- get the frame coated
- wash with water and soap
- wax chain

Efficient and always clean.

Furthermore, depending on the size, I am pretty sure you can find a frame here in france or in Nederland.

[Ostro23]

Awesome, thanks guys. I will go with the ceramic coating. Will be back to tell if it works.

[KarlGLS]

Oh, it will. Find the right guy, ask to see some of his work beforehand and you should be fine - can’t wait to see the result! Cheers

[Ostro23]

Oh I thought I can handle it myself by using ceramic spray? Would you find someone to coat it?

[kode54]

Does anyone know a retailer in europe/germany which still has frame sets with the "Flicker" colorway in stock? The retailers I've contacted told me it's sold out and that they won't get new stock of it (seems EoL since the pros of ISN switched to the "racing for Change" paint scheme).

@kode54 & KarlGLS I've been long on the fence about ceramic coating my (soon to be bought) ostro - might be a bit OT now, but since you've suggested it: How long does it actually last (especially on the right seat stay, which inevitably will see a few drops of chain/drive train degreaser)? And how does the reapplying after a given time work - do you have to remove/polish the leftovers of the old coating before renewing it? In that case I (just me personally) would just stick to waxing my frame every now and then, just to avoid having to work abrasive on my f'ing expensive frame every year

From my ex wt mechanic point of view:

- get the frame coated
- wash with water and soap
- wax chain

Efficient and always clean.

Furthermore, depending on the size, I am pretty sure you can find a frame here in france or in Nederland.

Pretty much! Ceramic coating lasts only as much as you subject the bike to the elements. If you already waxed it...you will have to remove the wax completely in order for the coating to bond to the paint. Not sure if you want to go through the effort. Simple way to protect is to use a spray on hybrid wax like the Turtle Wax. Cheap, fast and good. That application may last 6-9 months.

[kode54]

Oh I thought I can handle it myself by using ceramic spray? Would you find someone to coat it?

That's only if you want to REALLY get it coated. There are DIY type of coatings you can do yourself that is plenty good. That's what I did and have no issue with it. The pro coatings may last longer, like over a year to 3 years...longer than owning the bike (maybe if you swap bikes alot). A good semi-DIY coating like Adam's Graphene Ceramic Spray coating is plenty good.

[Erwin]

Sorry for my late response. I had to finish the bike. Weather forecasts for the weekend were too good and so already have took my first two rides with the Ostro. Lovely bike in every aspect (even no toe overlap like my O2s). The new handlebar is quite heavy, but really stiff and the bike is also plenty stiff, however comfortable (25mm front / 28mm rear). Most questions are already answered, regarding my STIs: I have not turned them that much in, I followed the shape of the bar. I have uploaded a few pictures.
Weight is 6930g as shown in the pictures (w/o Garmin and light, only with mounts), but no milk in the tires yet. So will be exactly 7,0kg.



EDIT: I forgot to mentioned, that I have needed 5,5mm spacers (0,5mm more than CS recommends) at the drive side and 3mm at the NDS. I also mounted the CS preloader, I just like quality on the bike. It is 6g heavier than the original and more threads too. With only 4,5mm spacers (should be 44,5mm chain line like Shimano) I had to set the FD-R9250 at -19 and so no more steps left. I love the new DA DI2, but found the setting method a little fiddly. But now I don't use the app anymore for finetuning. Press button on RD till it turns yellow and make your micro steps, one more button press and finished.

[KarlGLS]

Thanks for the feedback about spacers on dub axle. That’s indeed very good to know.
Beautiful build. What size is that ?

[dalex]

Just started building up an Ostro. The seatpost seems an incredibly tight fit in the frame, so far I have not managed to insert it more than about 5 cm. Anyone else had this, or have any tips? FWIW I have a DI2 battery mounted inside the seatpost using the rubber inserts, as per the manual instructions.

[fruitfly]

My opinion based on 2 frames and 3 seatposts is that mismatch in sizing is an Ostro thing. My first frame had a seatpost that was too loose and that rocked in the seat tube, with the seatpost wedge acting as a fulcrum, eventually causing the frame to crack.

The frame was replaced on warranty, and the second frame had a seat post that was so tight that I couldn't get it in without pounding on the saddle with a rubber mallet (I did use assembly paste). I was dreading removing it, but after more than a year, I sprayed Carbomove on the entry to the seat tube, and took out the seapost wedge bolt, and sprayed through the hole, and mounted a saddle wiht metal rails. I was able to get it out. I washed the seatpost with water, then isopropanol, and much to my surprise, in its clean state (no paste) it went in and out easily. So I would try cleaning your post, the inside of your seat tube (I wrapped a shop cloth soaked in isopropanol around a dowel), and the formerly jammed tube moved easily once the seatpost and seat tube were cleaned. I can't rule out that more important than the cleaning the seat post and tube was the fact that I removed the wedge bolt and reset the wedge in the seat tube.

Same frame with a different (zero offset) seatpost had normal easy movement of the seatpost..

[FactoryMatt]

^^that's concerning from a firm that supposedly boasts tighter QC because they own their own factory. hmm.