My adventures in chain waxing: goals, reviews, suggestions...

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ToileySiphon
Posts: 93
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 2:58 am

by ToileySiphon

Has anyone used Silca Chain Stripper to degrease a chain prior to using Molten Speed Wax? I wonder if the stripper is compatible with MSW.

Brand new chain, I degreased it following the Silca instructions for their chain stripper (shake, 10 minutes bath, shake again and rince in water).

The resulting chain makes much more flakes than after my usual MSW baths, as if the wax isn't adhering properly. I'm not entirely convinced it does a good job.

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ItalianEngineering
Posts: 55
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2023 2:40 pm

by ItalianEngineering

Is this normal result for ufo cleaner on a new dura ace 12 speed chain? I left it in for a lot longer than 5 minutes because I was expecting more. But it seems perfectly clean.
dura-ace-ufo-cleaner.jpg

by Weenie


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macwatt
Posts: 155
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 10:09 am

by macwatt

Hi

Anyone have any comparisons between regular hot waxing vs hot wax with wax drip top ups for a few thousand km's or constant.

Thanks

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eurperg
Posts: 941
Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 10:32 am
Location: Finland

by eurperg

r2-bike is now selling chains pre-waxed with Rex Black Diamond:

Image

https://r2-bike.com/neue-artikel#1101/m ... +pre-waxed

cheapvega
Posts: 466
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2019 1:12 pm

by cheapvega

I think I might be due for a new chain and possibly cassette too. Currently running 9100 FD, 8000 GS RD, Extralite 50/34, ZTTO 11-34 11 speed, KMC 11 speed chain. Can someone explain like I'm 5 what to check and do? Seems like first step is to check if my chain is stretched. If it's not, clean and lube it. If it is obviously replace it.

I pretty much only ride when it's dry or if it's just barely wet out. What is the most brain dead low effort cleaning/lube protocol for low friction and noise? I'm OK with somewhat frequent reapplication if it's easy. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner.

jajr1999
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2023 5:51 pm

by jajr1999

cheapvega wrote:
Tue Jun 04, 2024 8:13 pm
I think I might be due for a new chain and possibly cassette too. Currently running 9100 FD, 8000 GS RD, Extralite 50/34, ZTTO 11-34 11 speed, KMC 11 speed chain. Can someone explain like I'm 5 what to check and do? Seems like first step is to check if my chain is stretched. If it's not, clean and lube it. If it is obviously replace it.

I pretty much only ride when it's dry or if it's just barely wet out. What is the most brain dead low effort cleaning/lube protocol for low friction and noise? I'm OK with somewhat frequent reapplication if it's easy. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner.
After checking if you need anything new from the transmission, if necessary, replace it.

To clean, I disassembled the plates, cassette and pulleys and gave them a good clean with UFO Cleaner. Personally, after cleaning the cassette I realized that I had to buy a new one because I had missed it with the previous chains.

For the chain (I bought two new chains), I put them in a tupperware, filled it with UFO Cleaner and let it sit for 5-6 minutes (I focused on the ZeroFrictionCycling cleaning process). After drying them with a blow dryer, I waxed them.

In my case I have managed to have a clean transmission and I need to know if the chain really lasts longer in perfect conditions. As for the noise, it is more objective, my experience with a 105 Di2 tells me that the noise is only low for the first 2-3 hours, until I change the chains (8 hours), the chain sounds louder.

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kdawg
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:10 pm

by kdawg

I like the look of that Silca kit but it's expensive - so I just got an adjustable temperature waxing thing which looks very similar.

Apparently it only takes 10 minutes to melt the wax too - my slow cooker can take a few hours depending on the temperature. Ordered new wax to try it - feels a sensible time to change it rather than pouring the old stuff into it.
I'm left handed, if that matters.

cheapvega
Posts: 466
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2019 1:12 pm

by cheapvega

jajr1999 wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2024 3:25 pm
cheapvega wrote:
Tue Jun 04, 2024 8:13 pm
I think I might be due for a new chain and possibly cassette too. Currently running 9100 FD, 8000 GS RD, Extralite 50/34, ZTTO 11-34 11 speed, KMC 11 speed chain. Can someone explain like I'm 5 what to check and do? Seems like first step is to check if my chain is stretched. If it's not, clean and lube it. If it is obviously replace it.

I pretty much only ride when it's dry or if it's just barely wet out. What is the most brain dead low effort cleaning/lube protocol for low friction and noise? I'm OK with somewhat frequent reapplication if it's easy. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner.
After checking if you need anything new from the transmission, if necessary, replace it.

To clean, I disassembled the plates, cassette and pulleys and gave them a good clean with UFO Cleaner. Personally, after cleaning the cassette I realized that I had to buy a new one because I had missed it with the previous chains.

For the chain (I bought two new chains), I put them in a tupperware, filled it with UFO Cleaner and let it sit for 5-6 minutes (I focused on the ZeroFrictionCycling cleaning process). After drying them with a blow dryer, I waxed them.

In my case I have managed to have a clean transmission and I need to know if the chain really lasts longer in perfect conditions. As for the noise, it is more objective, my experience with a 105 Di2 tells me that the noise is only low for the first 2-3 hours, until I change the chains (8 hours), the chain sounds louder.
Chain is good so I soaked it in the Silica stripper, then remembered I have an ultrasonic cleaner and threw it in there for about 10 minutes and wiped off the grime. Also cleaned the cassette, chain rings and chain jockey wheels (?), then applied Silica drip lube (I forget the name, put it away last night)

For the cleaning side I think I'm gonna get a bigger ultrasonic cleaner that can do my cassette as it's a 1 piecer. Tried to use a brush and rinse it off in the sink but it wasn't 100% like the US cleaner was on the chain and jockey wheels. Something big enough for the chainrings is too expensive.

I will see how the drip lube lasts. Drivetrain def sounds a lot quieter... it was pretty grimy. Excited to go for a ride and see if I get some more watts to the wheel on a familiar loop. But this system wasn't too painful, did it all right before bedtime in about 30 minutes.

twoangstroms
Posts: 500
Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:49 am

by twoangstroms

It may not get 100% the results of immersing in Silca stripper but I can say that following the instructions for using it with the chain on the bike is really quick and noticeably effective. If you're not looking to optimize for a long race, it's great for regular maintenance.

cheapvega
Posts: 466
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2019 1:12 pm

by cheapvega

I will try that for in-between cleanings. Hopefully that (and just generally monitoring my drivetrain- admittedly I didn't :oops: ) can stretch out the intervals between deep cleans like this.

I did a familiar loop today and it looks like going from a crusty nasty drivetrain to a fresh clean one is good for ~6W (avg & NP). At my low FTP that's significant.

GONE4ARIDE
Posts: 145
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 2:05 am

by GONE4ARIDE

After you do your initial deep clean to remove any oils, grease etc..from new chains, you really should not have to do any further deep cleaning with Silca Stripper or other solvent products when you're in wax mode. At most, giving the chain a dunk in some clean boiling water (followed promptly by time in the wax pot) and pouring boiling water over your chainrings, cassette and jockey wheels should be more than sufficient to remove any old wax that may have built up.

twoangstroms
Posts: 500
Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:49 am

by twoangstroms

Silca also has a video showing you can pour the boiling water over the chain while it's on the bike (avoiding bearings). Yes, I can be quite lazy.

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Kurt1980
Posts: 337
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 9:41 am

by Kurt1980

Hey guys, pic below is of Silca Hot Melt after many uses. Any idea what the white stuff is? I haven't changed any of the protocol, nor have I exposed the chains to any unusual chemicals on the road.

A couple of times the chain probably went in slightly wet after being soaked in boiling water. Could that be it?

I haven't noticed any major degradation in performance for what it's worth.
Screenshot_20240609_103602_Gallery.jpg

Jaisen
Posts: 659
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2022 2:01 am

by Jaisen

Kurt1980 wrote:
Sun Jun 09, 2024 3:36 am
Hey guys, pic below is of Silca Hot Melt after many uses. Any idea what the white stuff is? I haven't changed any of the protocol, nor have I exposed the chains to any unusual chemicals on the road.

A couple of times the chain probably went in slightly wet after being soaked in boiling water. Could that be it?

I haven't noticed any major degradation in performance for what it's worth.

Screenshot_20240609_103602_Gallery.jpg
Are you sure you didn't burn it? My wax has always looked grey and never had any white stuff in it despite many uses. I'm not sure why yours has the brown tint and white stuff.

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Kurt1980
Posts: 337
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 9:41 am

by Kurt1980

Jaisen wrote:
Sun Jun 09, 2024 9:53 am
Kurt1980 wrote:
Sun Jun 09, 2024 3:36 am
Hey guys, pic below is of Silca Hot Melt after many uses. Any idea what the white stuff is? I haven't changed any of the protocol, nor have I exposed the chains to any unusual chemicals on the road.

A couple of times the chain probably went in slightly wet after being soaked in boiling water. Could that be it?

I haven't noticed any major degradation in performance for what it's worth.

Screenshot_20240609_103602_Gallery.jpg
Are you sure you didn't burn it? My wax has always looked grey and never had any white stuff in it despite many uses. I'm not sure why yours has the brown tint and white stuff.
You know, I can't be sure I haven't burnt it. I did leave it on a low setting for hours one time.... that could be it.

by Weenie


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