I would say there is a little more noise in the drivetrain, particularly the large cogs, but it doesn't bother me. It is very faint and I rarely notice it over the wind/road/dirt noise. Nothing even close to the annoyance of a squeky or grit filled oiled chain.coresare wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 4:26 amYou don't find the drivetrain noisier with hot wax? Namely in the big chainring.elzilcho wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 2:48 amI swapped to wax as an experiment during the lockdown and I won't be going back to chain lube. The setup can seem tedious but I've found a routine that works for me. I cleaned the chains and cassettes with mineral spirits, soaking the chains over night and scrubbing the cassettes with a brush. Initially I followed Ozcycle's idea of adding some powdered PTFE but have since seen suggestions that it doesn't really help, either way it was simple to drop parafin in to a small slow cooker and soak the chains for 15-20 minutes, then hang to dry. I found that wiping off the outside of the chains before they are cooled helps a lot to minimize the wax flakes on the bike. I have two chains in rotatoin for each bike (MTB and gravel/road). Each chain has been getting 250-500 miles, variable due to wet conditions. I've found the cleaniness of a waxed chain to be a big selling point for me, and joke with my friends when they're dealing with squeky chains and oil every ride. Sure, if you're attentitive to cleaing and lubing you may not have those issues, but I think you're spending more time with that than you would with wax and still have an oil covered chain in the event you need to touch it.
My adventures in chain waxing: goals, reviews, suggestions...
Moderator: robbosmans
I recently bought a new bike and after having only riden on waxed chains for the last 4-5000km's. and after riding the new bike it made me realize how much drivetrain noise I was getting. even with just 200km between waxing. I would love to switch this bike over to wax for the cleanliness but not if I can't quiet it down.
I have read that some of the kmc chains are noisier that the equivalemnt shimano chains. Is it the difference between barely noticing it and it being the dominant noise?

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Have you tried to use a 12sp chain with the narrower outside it may reduce noise as well?Median240 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 8:29 pmI recently bought a new bike and after having only riden on waxed chains for the last 4-5000km's. and after riding the new bike it made me realize how much drivetrain noise I was getting. even with just 200km between waxing. I would love to switch this bike over to wax for the cleanliness but not if I can't quiet it down.
I have read that some of the kmc chains are noisier that the equivalemnt shimano chains. Is it the difference between barely noticing it and it being the dominant noise?
For me I'm waxing since over one year also partly riding in the wet. I have 2-3 spare chains and after one is done I change and if i have 3 done, I put them in a old deep fryer basket and clean them with boiling water, blow with compressed air and rewax.
Just received bottle of a BananaSlip W race lube and applied it to my freshly cleaned drive train. I can't report on how well it works as I did not had the chance to ride it yet but I have few remarks. So the price is 15gbp for 50mL. I did not notice that on the webpage but assumed it was 100mL because of the bottle it comes in. Viscosity of fluid is extremely low and it flows like crazy from the nozzle which is too big so it's not practical for application (can't control how much goes from the container so a lot of it ends up on the floor) Also it is flammable. I believe this is their regular formula but probably much more diluted with paraffin oil or some other solvent.
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So I have been waxing my chains for two weeks now and it seems to be something I will continue to do as I have a system like many others here and I like the way it works with a rotation of two chains for my main road bike. My first wax job was incomplete when I pulled the chain out of the croc and only let it cool enough to touch and then wiped the outer plates down to get rid of the excess. I should have let it dry longer and have done so since that point on, which makes a noticeable difference on how quiet the chain is when rolling down the road.
I also received some Squirt lube and the Banana Slip which I tried both on my connector links for installation of freshly waxed chain but I think the Squirt seemed to be a little thicker when it set up so I will use it up first for that purpose. I have not used the Squirt or Banana Slip to lube an entire chain just yet as I am happy with the results of waxing. Perhaps I will use those for touch ups when needed and I also have the Maxima chain wax spray for touch ups as well. The Maxima doesnt last long and it doesnt penetrate into the rollers very effectively either as its only good for a couple rides whereas the heated wax seems to go on and on. I also tried mixing the Squirt and Banana Slip into the hot wax but it doesnt play well with each other as its like mixing oil and water.
At any rate I like waxing as its clean, its cheap even for the food grade, I dont mind the flakey wax cause its easy to clean with a vacuum and my drive train stays cleaner and is easy to clean.
I also received some Squirt lube and the Banana Slip which I tried both on my connector links for installation of freshly waxed chain but I think the Squirt seemed to be a little thicker when it set up so I will use it up first for that purpose. I have not used the Squirt or Banana Slip to lube an entire chain just yet as I am happy with the results of waxing. Perhaps I will use those for touch ups when needed and I also have the Maxima chain wax spray for touch ups as well. The Maxima doesnt last long and it doesnt penetrate into the rollers very effectively either as its only good for a couple rides whereas the heated wax seems to go on and on. I also tried mixing the Squirt and Banana Slip into the hot wax but it doesnt play well with each other as its like mixing oil and water.
At any rate I like waxing as its clean, its cheap even for the food grade, I dont mind the flakey wax cause its easy to clean with a vacuum and my drive train stays cleaner and is easy to clean.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
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Hello.
I have been waxing since the start of 2020 and i'm pretty happy with the results, I live in a dry area so rain is not an issue.I can put 400-600km on my 10spd chains between lubes. I think it's the superior way to lube.
I have tried to rescue used chains to change them to wax but the amount of disolvent that you need to get them clean is maybe too much. And i do think people should put more time on degreasing. Most websites recommend mineral turpentine or other diesel-like disolvents, wich give good results if one also uses alcohol for a rinse.
But maybe the superior way of getting a brand new chain to perfect clean is brake cleaner, i will try that next time.
Overall is something i recommend, i prefer inmersion but even Squirt (With a big first application) works better than oil based lubes, clean and only for the reason of not staining fabrics etc.
I have been waxing since the start of 2020 and i'm pretty happy with the results, I live in a dry area so rain is not an issue.I can put 400-600km on my 10spd chains between lubes. I think it's the superior way to lube.
I have tried to rescue used chains to change them to wax but the amount of disolvent that you need to get them clean is maybe too much. And i do think people should put more time on degreasing. Most websites recommend mineral turpentine or other diesel-like disolvents, wich give good results if one also uses alcohol for a rinse.
But maybe the superior way of getting a brand new chain to perfect clean is brake cleaner, i will try that next time.
Overall is something i recommend, i prefer inmersion but even Squirt (With a big first application) works better than oil based lubes, clean and only for the reason of not staining fabrics etc.
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The biggest improvement to reduce drivetrain transmission noise on my DA 9000 groupset was to switch to the M9100 XTR 12 speed chain. As others have posted on this forum this chain is slightly narrower so no longer touches the edges of the cassettes when running outside of the optimum chainline.dantist wrote:To those using Tungsten Banana Slip All Weather Lube: what chain are you running? I use it on a Ultegra chain and find the drivetrain quite loud as soon as I use a gear combination where the chain doesn't run totally straight.
I’m running Tunsten All Weather which is much cleaner than my previous lube Smoove, however it’s not quite as long lasting so needs more regular top ups which I do every 200KM. When approaching 200KM the chain does start to sound more metallic. I’m happy to continue with Tungsten with a simple wipe down and reapply a couple of times a week.
I read all this, but I'm not convinced that melting wax makes any sense as I find squirt has a very high "just works" factor. For indoor training I dislike the black wax blobs on the floor, but otherwise what's not to like?
I come in from a ride, and if the chain made any noise I apply squirt. Just turn the cranks 4x and hold bottle on chain. Repeat other side. Wipe any spillage off rims with paper towel. 30 seconds and done.
I wash the bike every week or two to remove sweat, dirt and dried on drink. Normally a 5' wash with hot water and soap then rinse. Hold paper towel on chain to remove some water. Same on jockey wheels. Reapply squirt as above. This routine seems to keep the wax buildup at bay.
Maybe once every 2000km I might clean the drivetrain parts thoroughly, but by that point the bike usually needs some tlc anyway so not really extra work.
Also the other thing nobody mentioned is the pita of removing and reattaching chains. I degrease the chain with one degreaser shaking session, fit it once and apply a few layers of lube before running.
I come in from a ride, and if the chain made any noise I apply squirt. Just turn the cranks 4x and hold bottle on chain. Repeat other side. Wipe any spillage off rims with paper towel. 30 seconds and done.
I wash the bike every week or two to remove sweat, dirt and dried on drink. Normally a 5' wash with hot water and soap then rinse. Hold paper towel on chain to remove some water. Same on jockey wheels. Reapply squirt as above. This routine seems to keep the wax buildup at bay.
Maybe once every 2000km I might clean the drivetrain parts thoroughly, but by that point the bike usually needs some tlc anyway so not really extra work.
Also the other thing nobody mentioned is the pita of removing and reattaching chains. I degrease the chain with one degreaser shaking session, fit it once and apply a few layers of lube before running.
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Most everyone that waxes their chain use a quick link of some kind and rotate a couple chains so that one is always ready to go. Waxing is really not that big a deal but it is nice to keep the drivetrain clean and when your chain pops off and you have to put it back on by hand its not so messy. I just started waxing and pretty happy to continue with it. Chains go on and off pretty easily and quickly with a quick link and the wax stays on for a good number of weeks. I know I am not going back to petroleum based lubes.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake

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Comparing to using squirt, it's quite cumbersome to simply take the chain off! Then to clean it and apply the stuff.. Then you have to put it back on. It's a lot of work.
Also I'm not using quick releases, so taking the chain off is not that simple.
I'm happy with squirt. Yes, the black gunk is not nice, but I can live with that.
But also I know there are people who also clean their bikes often, some even put on protective layers to save the paints and stuff. I just ride mostly.