more economical alternative to the Campagnolo chain tool?

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rollinslow
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by rollinslow

The Campy tool is worth the price and much more consistent. The park tool 4.3 is trash. The pin broke easily and when I contacted them they said it is to be expected which is why they sell replacement pins in a 4 pack.

The Campy tool just does it right every time. Buy it now or buy it later, your choice lol.
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MayhemSWE
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by MayhemSWE

Not sure if possible, but buy the pin from the Campy original chain tool, install in one of the cheaper tools available?

AJS914
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

I just don't do enough chains to be buying the Campagnolo tool. And I'm sure it's very nice. I break chains with my 10 speed era Park chain tool and then peen the final rivet with the Lezyne tool. Peening is super simple and doesn't need a spendy tool. I think Park even makes a peening only tool.

I also don't take my chain off. I run the chain for 3K miles and then put a new one one.

DaveS
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by DaveS

The original post didn't mention 12 speed. If that's the case, then consider using a SRAM eagle 12 quick link. It fits the best. A KMC 12 link wil fit, but it's a little wider than necessary.

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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

rollinslow wrote:The Campy tool is worth the price and much more consistent. The park tool 4.3 is trash. The pin broke easily and when I contacted them they said it is to be expected which is why they sell replacement pins in a 4 pack.

The Campy tool just does it right every time. Buy it now or buy it later, your choice lol.
I bought the campy tool years ago and worked great until the pin broke at the base and I couldn’t get the rest of it out to replace it. Ended up buying the PT 4.3, and had the same experience as above. I still haven’t been able to get the broken pin out of the campy toolImageImage

I started a year ago using an sram 11sp removable link instead of pinning it. So far not a single issue. Simple, removable, and no need for the tools at all!

uraqt
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by uraqt

You don't have to look, Dave is the campy/chain expert arounbd here.. As he said use the eagle quick link!!

C

AJS914
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

So, I over-peened a campagnolo chain and now have a tight link. What should I do? I've tried bending back and forth and side to side by hand. It loosened a little but is still tight.

Should I / can I remove that pin and redo it with a new pin? I know Campy says it's a one time use thing.

Or, just buy a Connex or other quick link?

Renault78law
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Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:56 pm

by Renault78law

I had a tight link at the peened pin on my SR 12 chain. I did the same as you and lubed it like crazy. Loosened up after two rides.

WorkonSunday
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by WorkonSunday

DaveS wrote:
Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:58 pm
The original post didn't mention 12 speed. If that's the case, then consider using a SRAM eagle 12 quick link. It fits the best. A KMC 12 link wil fit, but it's a little wider than necessary.
would you recommend sram 11 speed version on a 11 speed chorus chain ? Cheers.
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DaveS
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by DaveS

I would use a wipperman connex link on an 11 speed chain. Whenever the 12 speed version becomes readily available, I'll try it with my 12 speed chains.

Bobbyc123
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by Bobbyc123

Miller wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:07 pm
I had the Park Tool, possibly an earlier version than 4.3, and found it was very poor at joining Campag chain as it does not lock the chain in position.

On the other hand I can give a strong recommend for the BBB ProfiConnect BTL55. Despite a low price it's solidly made. It has a screw-in mini anvil that secures the chain in position and that is key to driving in the new pin. You can turn the anvil round to present a blank face that supports the inserted pin for peening. There's even a little wire clip for holding a loop of chain against derailleur tension.
Hey, is this good for 12 speed chains?

And, being new to fitting chains, is this the only thing i'll need besides the new chain to get campy 11s/12s fitted?

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Miller
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by Miller

Bobbyc123 wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:48 am
Hey, is this good for 12 speed chains?
And, being new to fitting chains, is this the only thing i'll need besides the new chain to get campy 11s/12s fitted?
I've done a couple of 12sp chains with it since I wrote my Jan 2020 post and yes, it works just the same as for 11sp. Be sure to read the little Campag instruction leaflet. Essentially you're pushing the pin from the inside, which is a little awkward. The first part of the pin is the guide which will detach, the rearward part is the actual chain rivet. Take as much care as you can to be pushing this in straight, it doesn't need much encouragement to try to go in skew. The first part of the rivet needs a fair bit of force to go through, then it's easy for a couple of mm, then it stiffens up. Only 0.1mm should be left sticking out on the inside, almost nothing. You should feel the force needed to push the pin increasing as the rivet bottoms out.Then you're good with only the peening on the outside left to do.

Alexandrumarian
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by Alexandrumarian

Park has been poor for me too, very hard to get the pin to go in straight. And eventually the pusher broke...

jadedaid
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Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2019 7:43 pm

by jadedaid

mag wrote:
Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:16 am
If you live in the EU the Rohloff Revolver 3 is currently pretty nicely discounted (~ 115 EUR) at German hibike.de and r2-bike.com
It's still on the more expensive side, however better than usually so might be worth reconsideration.
That's one of the coolest looking chain tools I've seen!

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Bobbyc123
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:40 am

by Bobbyc123

Miller wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:22 pm
Bobbyc123 wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:48 am
Hey, is this good for 12 speed chains?
And, being new to fitting chains, is this the only thing i'll need besides the new chain to get campy 11s/12s fitted?
I've done a couple of 12sp chains with it since I wrote my Jan 2020 post and yes, it works just the same as for 11sp. Be sure to read the little Campag instruction leaflet. Essentially you're pushing the pin from the inside, which is a little awkward. The first part of the pin is the guide which will detach, the rearward part is the actual chain rivet. Take as much care as you can to be pushing this in straight, it doesn't need much encouragement to try to go in skew. The first part of the rivet needs a fair bit of force to go through, then it's easy for a couple of mm, then it stiffens up. Only 0.1mm should be left sticking out on the inside, almost nothing. You should feel the force needed to push the pin increasing as the rivet bottoms out.Then you're good with only the peening on the outside left to do.
Thanks!

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