2020 Specialized Tarmac SL7
Moderator: robbosmans
So then what does that mean for Comp? 105 Di2? Or mechanical shifting? Can't see the point in selling two different trim levels with Rival AXS as it seems like the only real difference would likely be alloy wheels vs the C38s.
If Comp is going 105 Di2 then that's the value buy of the model year - wheels, bars, and chainset all budget alloy options which are the parts you're most likely to swap out for fit and rider preference anyway. It would effectively be the 105 version of the 2021 Expert Di2 spec.
EDIT: Just went looking at the Aus and US sites and 105 Di2 with alloy wheels and bars is exactly what they've done. $5500 USD and available in June. Perfect spec for selective and personalised upgrades without having wasted money on premium parts that don't match rider preferences or fit dimensions. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/tarma ... 979-216925
Also I hadn't seen the new 10R frameset colourway - looks nice if you fancy a bit of colour! (though I think actually the Allez Sprint version of the same theme looks nicer)
If Comp is going 105 Di2 then that's the value buy of the model year - wheels, bars, and chainset all budget alloy options which are the parts you're most likely to swap out for fit and rider preference anyway. It would effectively be the 105 version of the 2021 Expert Di2 spec.
EDIT: Just went looking at the Aus and US sites and 105 Di2 with alloy wheels and bars is exactly what they've done. $5500 USD and available in June. Perfect spec for selective and personalised upgrades without having wasted money on premium parts that don't match rider preferences or fit dimensions. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/tarma ... 979-216925
Also I hadn't seen the new 10R frameset colourway - looks nice if you fancy a bit of colour! (though I think actually the Allez Sprint version of the same theme looks nicer)
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Hey folks - what clincher tyres are you running on the original Roval Rapide CLX that are easy to take on and off. I have moved back to the Turbo Cotten's as the Conti 5000 were near impossible to get on and off at the road side but UK roads are not really loving the Turbo Cottens and are too puncture prone. Does anyone have any recomendations i am not looking for a tubeless.
TIA
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I never had trouble mounting the Vittoria Corsa and Corsa G2.0. In my experience they aren't quite as as fast as the Turbo Cottons, but they're similar and seem to have a little bit better flat protection.mistap wrote: ↑Fri May 12, 2023 11:29 amHey folks - what clincher tyres are you running on the original Roval Rapide CLX that are easy to take on and off. I have moved back to the Turbo Cotten's as the Conti 5000 were near impossible to get on and off at the road side but UK roads are not really loving the Turbo Cottens and are too puncture prone. Does anyone have any recomendations i am not looking for a tubeless.
TIA
Michelin Power Cup's are easy to install and remove and very similar performance to GP5000.mistap wrote: ↑Fri May 12, 2023 11:29 amHey folks - what clincher tyres are you running on the original Roval Rapide CLX that are easy to take on and off. I have moved back to the Turbo Cotten's as the Conti 5000 were near impossible to get on and off at the road side but UK roads are not really loving the Turbo Cottens and are too puncture prone. Does anyone have any recomendations i am not looking for a tubeless.
TIA
Weights of 25 & 28mm - 25 is 220g
- eucalyptus
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Stupid question as I know zero offset post has been discussed a few hundred pages back.
How do you know if you need / prefer a zero degree post?
If you use zero degree post, do you also use a longer stem?? Adding 10-20 mm, meaning 120-130 stem on a medium 54 wouldn't be totally crazy. But I don't know
How do you know if you need / prefer a zero degree post?
If you use zero degree post, do you also use a longer stem?? Adding 10-20 mm, meaning 120-130 stem on a medium 54 wouldn't be totally crazy. But I don't know
You know, when you can't get your saddle far enough forward with the post that comes with it.
Typically as you move the saddle for/aft you move the stem to maintain the correct reach.
Your question is actually more about bike fitting than it is about post offset selection. Post offset is a byproduct of the bike fit.
Typically as you move the saddle for/aft you move the stem to maintain the correct reach.
Your question is actually more about bike fitting than it is about post offset selection. Post offset is a byproduct of the bike fit.
I have a rapide handlebar on my Tarmac SL7 and I noticed there is a bit of play on the left cable cover. Not that it moves out of alignment with the bar, you can just wiggle it a bit. I've tried setting the screw a bit tighter but it is already on the correct torque.
The right cover is super solid, hence I ask myself if it is normal that they have some tiny bit of play? I didn't install the bar myself so it might also be that the shop applied some glue which has come loose on the left side.
The right cover is super solid, hence I ask myself if it is normal that they have some tiny bit of play? I didn't install the bar myself so it might also be that the shop applied some glue which has come loose on the left side.
This whole design with the covers is poorly engineered. Not only is it fiddly to install, the covers also have a tendency to come loose. On my brand new Roval Rapide handlebars one of the covers came loose after only 2 weeks of riding, moreover it looks like the whole nut/threading is gone and I am unable to install a replacement cover.Kluuz wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 7:37 amI have a rapide handlebar on my Tarmac SL7 and I noticed there is a bit of play on the left cable cover. Not that it moves out of alignment with the bar, you can just wiggle it a bit. I've tried setting the screw a bit tighter but it is already on the correct torque.
The right cover is super solid, hence I ask myself if it is normal that they have some tiny bit of play? I didn't install the bar myself so it might also be that the shop applied some glue which has come loose on the left side.
Maybe try adding a small thin washer between the bolt head and the flap?Kluuz wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 7:37 amI have a rapide handlebar on my Tarmac SL7 and I noticed there is a bit of play on the left cable cover. Not that it moves out of alignment with the bar, you can just wiggle it a bit. I've tried setting the screw a bit tighter but it is already on the correct torque.
The right cover is super solid, hence I ask myself if it is normal that they have some tiny bit of play? I didn't install the bar myself so it might also be that the shop applied some glue which has come loose on the left side.
I've installed my Rapide handlebar last Sunday. The flaps can be rotated around the bolts with some amount of force applied but there's a noticeable resistance. I think this is better than having them fixed and risking them breaking off in case of a crash or hitting the bars with something, during transport etc.
There's no lateral play though.
'24 S-Works Tarmac SL8 RTP - soon™
'22 Tarmac SL7 Expert | Ultegra R8100 | Alpinist CL / Custom Rapide CLX 2x60
'19 Diverge E5 Comp
'18 Epic HT Comp Carbon WMN
'18 TCR Adv Pro 1 Disc
'22 Tarmac SL7 Expert | Ultegra R8100 | Alpinist CL / Custom Rapide CLX 2x60
'19 Diverge E5 Comp
'18 Epic HT Comp Carbon WMN
'18 TCR Adv Pro 1 Disc
I did twice fitting with different protocals (second fitting after 4 yrs due to covid infection and following car accident), and both suggested the excatly same saddle position even my body was not as good as before. I can easily calculate if I need a 0/20 mm offset one based on the STA. Fortunately, I don't need 0 mm offset on my size.eucalyptus wrote: ↑Tue May 16, 2023 8:01 amStupid question as I know zero offset post has been discussed a few hundred pages back.
How do you know if you need / prefer a zero degree post?
If you use zero degree post, do you also use a longer stem?? Adding 10-20 mm, meaning 120-130 stem on a medium 54 wouldn't be totally crazy. But I don't know
7.4kg as pictured, granted theres only one bottle cage. Has the stock wahoo mount. Not bad for a 61cm. Need to chop that chimney though lol.
Specialized Tarmac SL7 10r 61cm (Raw Black Carbon) / r9170 Dura-Ace Di2 11sp / Lightbicycle AR46
Cannondale SuperSlice Hi-Mod 58cm (From EF) / r8050 Ultegra Di2 11sp / AeroCoach Ascalon Carbon / AeroCoach AEOX Zephyr
Cannondale SuperSlice Hi-Mod 58cm (From EF) / r8050 Ultegra Di2 11sp / AeroCoach Ascalon Carbon / AeroCoach AEOX Zephyr
Thanks, yes, something like that might help. For now I'll leave it like this though, I just shouldnt fiddle with it . To get it off, with the handlebar fully installed is a bit of a hassle for this small issue, but this is probably a good tip when at any point I need to re-assemble it anyway, I will keep it in mind!K4m1k4z3 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 8:02 amMaybe try adding a small thin washer between the bolt head and the flap?Kluuz wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 7:37 amI have a rapide handlebar on my Tarmac SL7 and I noticed there is a bit of play on the left cable cover. Not that it moves out of alignment with the bar, you can just wiggle it a bit. I've tried setting the screw a bit tighter but it is already on the correct torque.
The right cover is super solid, hence I ask myself if it is normal that they have some tiny bit of play? I didn't install the bar myself so it might also be that the shop applied some glue which has come loose on the left side.
I've installed my Rapide handlebar last Sunday. The flaps can be rotated around the bolts with some amount of force applied but there's a noticeable resistance. I think this is better than having them fixed and risking them breaking off in case of a crash or hitting the bars with something, during transport etc.
There's no lateral play though.
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Everyone's limb/foot lengths/mechanics are different so it all just depends. Try it.eucalyptus wrote: ↑Tue May 16, 2023 8:01 amStupid question as I know zero offset post has been discussed a few hundred pages back.
How do you know if you need / prefer a zero degree post?
If you use zero degree post, do you also use a longer stem?? Adding 10-20 mm, meaning 120-130 stem on a medium 54 wouldn't be totally crazy. But I don't know
I am on a 49cm (160cm height) with a short torso and long legs relative to my height. The 49 already has a fairly steep STA. I ran the the 20mm offset for awhile but contrary to internet/forum/online anecdotes I could never feel my glutes sharing the load with an appropriate saddle height on this bike or my other one with setback posts.
1. I was on a 20mm setback/90mm stem. Reach was always fine with that set up.
2. Swapped to a zero setback with the same 90mm stem. Saddle position relative to the BB felt great. Had to raise the saddle to get the same distance from BB to saddle. 90mm stem now resulted in too much loading on the front end though. No extra loading on the quads as online forums always say, but could definitely feel my glutes/hams working more.
3. Finally arrived at a zero setback with a 110mm stem minus a 5mm spacer that was under the 90mm. Feels perfect. Reach is back to what it was, and the new saddle position feels much better.
Take this experience for what it's worth, my experience. Also don't be afraid to go against what is supposedly/traditionally "correct" in theory. I am not one to say "look at what the pros are doing" for every situation, but there are tons of pro riders who are using zero setback posts on the SL7. You wouldn't be crazy for doing so. Bike fit has changed over the years.
This is weightweenies, so someone should be by any minute to tell me all of this is wrong.