Dura-Ace R9200

[satanas]

So, I had 9100 briefly (the bike was stolen) and, apart from being super noisy in wet weather, I would have liked more pad clearance and a little more lever travel before anything happened.

If I were to do the opposite in points 1 & 5 above should that achieve more clearance?

[robertbb]

So, I had 9100 briefly (the bike was stolen) and, apart from being super noisy in wet weather, I would have liked more pad clearance and a little more lever travel before anything happened.

If I were to do the opposite in points 1 & 5 above should that achieve more clearance?

I don't think so. Clearance is clearance, lever travel is a different topic.

The other thing to mention is that I am using the proper Shimano 12 speed bleed blocks (which resemble a boat anchor in shape, and have no holes). They are very purposefully shaped to interface with the pistons in the 12 speed calipers. I've seen others, expensive shops included, use the old 11 speed blocks (which are more square and have holes in them). I just don't think these old ones are adequate to get a well set up 12 speed system. While the thickness may be the same, the way it rests in the caliper won't be as Shimano intended.

I had one shop tell me they use an allen key as a bleed block since the measurement is the same. This was a stark reminder as to why I havn't left my or my partner's bikes at a shop for any job in 7-8 years. Fly by night cowboys.

[HBike]

Question:
I got some RD-R9250 pulley wheels and wanted to install them on an Ultegra 8150 rear derailleur. The pulley wheels are about 3mm less in width than the Ultegra pulley wheels. Seems to work with minimum spacing between chain and cage, without contact, but the cage is of course slightly bent due to the smaller width. Doesn't seem to pose a problem, shifts gears fine. Didn't put load on them so far, but maybe someone did a similar thing and could just give a short feedback whether this caused problems for them. Thanks.

[Ritxis]

So, I had 9100 briefly (the bike was stolen) and, apart from being super noisy in wet weather, I would have liked more pad clearance and a little more lever travel before anything happened.

If I were to do the opposite in points 1 & 5 above should that achieve more clearance?

I don't think so. Clearance is clearance, lever travel is a different topic.

The other thing to mention is that I am using the proper Shimano 12 speed bleed blocks (which resemble a boat anchor in shape, and have no holes). They are very purposefully shaped to interface with the pistons in the 12 speed calipers. I've seen others, expensive shops included, use the old 11 speed blocks (which are more square and have holes in them). I just don't think these old ones are adequate to get a well set up 12 speed system. While the thickness may be the same, the way it rests in the caliper won't be as Shimano intended.

I had one shop tell me they use an allen key as a bleed block since the measurement is the same. This was a stark reminder as to why I havn't left my or my partner's bikes at a shop for any job in 7-8 years. Fly by night cowboys.

removing the shape of the 11 vs 12 blocks...the latter are more comfortable to place and are supposed to be a bit wider than the 11, due to the 10% extra space that the 12 calipers have..... If you put a 11 in a 12 caliper the pistons will close more and you will lose 10% I don't see any more problems. Also the brake pads are the same for both calipers.

[robertbb]

So, I had 9100 briefly (the bike was stolen) and, apart from being super noisy in wet weather, I would have liked more pad clearance and a little more lever travel before anything happened.

If I were to do the opposite in points 1 & 5 above should that achieve more clearance?

I don't think so. Clearance is clearance, lever travel is a different topic.

The other thing to mention is that I am using the proper Shimano 12 speed bleed blocks (which resemble a boat anchor in shape, and have no holes). They are very purposefully shaped to interface with the pistons in the 12 speed calipers. I've seen others, expensive shops included, use the old 11 speed blocks (which are more square and have holes in them). I just don't think these old ones are adequate to get a well set up 12 speed system. While the thickness may be the same, the way it rests in the caliper won't be as Shimano intended.

I had one shop tell me they use an allen key as a bleed block since the measurement is the same. This was a stark reminder as to why I havn't left my or my partner's bikes at a shop for any job in 7-8 years. Fly by night cowboys.

removing the shape of the 11 vs 12 blocks...the latter are more comfortable to place and are supposed to be a bit wider than the 11, due to the 10% extra space that the 12 calipers have..... If you put a 11 in a 12 caliper the pistons will close more and you will lose 10% I don't see any more problems. Also the brake pads are the same for both calipers.

Yes good point. The extra thickness of the 12s blocks accounts for the extra pad clearance in the 12s calipers. I have to say this system when done properly is industry leading - it bests Campy (slightly).

[BigBoyND]

Has anyone tried the 105 11-36 cassette with DA or Ultegra? Since officially the max is 34t, I'm curious whether the clearance is as conservative as in the 11sp era.

[polpy]

Has anyone tried the 105 11-36 cassette with DA or Ultegra? Since officially the max is 34t, I'm curious whether the clearance is as conservative as in the 11sp era.

I cant think of any reason why this should not work.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk

[Xabi]

Has anyone tried the 105 11-36 cassette with DA or Ultegra? Since officially the max is 34t, I'm curious whether the clearance is as conservative as in the 11sp era.

2 extra teeth is probably ok, you are loosing HG+ though.

I'm running 11speed Dura ace 9150 and 11-32 cassette without issues. I know people that used older Dura ace 9000 with the same cassette without extra hardware, and that was 4 teeth over capacity.

[BigBoyND]

I know in the past it was fine and did it myself.

Has someone tried it on 12sp yet?

[satanas]

There aren't many cassettes >34T, except 36T. (There are a few but they're either very cheap and heavy, i.e., steel from China, or horribly expensive, like Ingrid's 11-44.) FWIW, I'd also be surprised if 36T didn't work, but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

[K4m1k4z3]

An odd question: Does anyone have recommendation for protective CRANK BOOTS that would fit nicely? (For Ultegra R8100 specifically.)

This is for gravel/CX usage.

On R7000/8000 I used SRAM Crank Boots with great success which fit nice and snug. But the R8100 cranks are taller (in the Y-axis, when looking at the bike from a side with cranks horizontal).

[bebe77]

Good morning everyone, I'm new to the forum and I hope you will forgive me for my English..
I'm building a tarmac sl8 with a dura ace group and I'm in doubt about the choice between a dura ace group with a power meter and the new 2inpower sl rotor.
On the Rotor website they give it with a 43.9 chain line compatible with the Shimano 12v chain line
In your experience, can the Rotor crankset work well without making you regret the Shimano one?
Thank you

[cleanneon98]

I can't answer your question on exact fit but you should do your best to avoid Shimano crank based dual sided power meters. Left arm is fine, but if you want double sided power find pedals or a spider based.

[pdlpsher1]

I'd highly recommend either the P2M or Quarq PMs, made for Shimano's four arm chainrings. Don't get a crank that doesn't use the stock Shimano chainrings. I do believe the P2M and Quarq are much more accurate than spindle based PMs like the 2inpower sl rotor.

[Aeo]

An odd question: Does anyone have recommendation for protective CRANK BOOTS that would fit nicely? (For Ultegra R8100 specifically.)

This is for gravel/CX usage.

On R7000/8000 I used SRAM Crank Boots with great success which fit nice and snug. But the R8100 cranks are taller (in the Y-axis, when looking at the bike from a side with cranks horizontal).

https://www.zefal.com/en/bike-protectio ... armor.html