As long as it shifts well try to ignore the clicking on the 5th cog and eventually it will go away. On both my ultegra and da 12 speed cassettes the clicking on the 5th cog disappeared after a good few hundreds of kms perhaps close to 1k.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Tue May 02, 2023 3:30 pmSpent a bunch of time last night trying to get the shifting to an acceptable level. Started by making sure the hanger was straight (it was). Got the chain to the right size. Set the b-limit as close to spec as possible.
Still having issues with a couple of cogs making noise (4th and 5th and, sometimes 7th). With the 11-34, also had an issue where it was having difficulty shifting from 12th to 11th.
Is it fair to assume that my cassettes are bad? What else is there to do?
I would certainly order up an R9200 11-34t if it was guaranteed to work at this point as that would be cheaper than taking it to the bike shop having them diagnose it and submit a warranty claim to Shimano.
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Dura-Ace R9200
Moderator: robbosmans
The clicking is so annoying. I've spent a lot of time trying to chase it down. As a couple of other people noted in other threads online, a KMC DLC 12 chain does seem to have helped this symptom considerably--not gone entirely, but a noticeable improvement. No, I don't work for KMC and no, I'm not happy about having to spend money on a boutique chain after spending lots of money already on a brand new bike and groupset. I'm hesitant to throw good money after bad by buying a third cassette to try, but I suppose I will eventually get to that point if I don't sell this groupset to revert to 11-speed before that. The noisy 21T gear is one thing, but I just don't find the rear shifting on the 12-speed as quiet and reliable as 11-speed. Things I've tried that HAVEN'T helped with the ticking/clicking:LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Tue May 02, 2023 3:30 pmSpent a bunch of time last night trying to get the shifting to an acceptable level. Started by making sure the hanger was straight (it was). Got the chain to the right size. Set the b-limit as close to spec as possible.
Still having issues with a couple of cogs making noise (4th and 5th and, sometimes 7th). With the 11-34, also had an issue where it was having difficulty shifting from 12th to 11th.
Is it fair to assume that my cassettes are bad? What else is there to do?
I would certainly order up an R9200 11-34t if it was guaranteed to work at this point as that would be cheaper than taking it to the bike shop having them diagnose it and submit a warranty claim to Shimano.
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* two different cassettes
* experimented with different torque settings on the cassette (tried under torqued, torqued to spec and over torqued)
* double checked spacer placement
* b-screw setting checked with Shimano tool several times
* indexing the bike in several different configurations (exactly to Shimano instructions, then biasing inboard and outboard)
* replacing rear mech hanger
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So, again.
milanv wrote: ↑Sun Mar 05, 2023 7:58 pmMaddie wrote: ↑Sun Mar 05, 2023 3:23 pmRemove the glued ring that is sitting behind the cassette:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=168810
milanv wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2023 8:22 amFrom this thread viewtopic.php?t=156208milanv wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 12:35 pmSo, several hours of mechanic job and here we go with the update of clicking a wobbling problem of my Ultegra cassettes on new wheelset.
1. New cassette on the freehub wobbles and the 5th cog clicking problem remains.
2. Old cassette on the freehub wobbles less but still wobbles, the 5th cog clicking problem remains.
3. Old cassette without the glued ring and the special Shimano 1mm ring behind, it wobbles more than with the glued ring + it does not have ideal freehub movement when tightening to the correct tighten moment.
4. Old cassette without the glued ring, voilà, it does not wobble. + the 5th cog clicking problem is lesser, it remains, but it is very very tiny.
I had to give it a minor adjustment in eTube Shimano app, but it is many times better and I can live with it at the moment.
I estimate that several people will not spot it.
Replacing the hanger doesn't guarantee a straight hanger. A HAG (hanger alignment gauge) will ensure a straight hanger. It's a good investment.
The 12-speed is more finicky to setup than a 11-speed due to the closer spacing. You need patience and some small experimentations.
I have put on a brand new original hanger on my bike (not a SL7) fully expecting to be straight.
When I checked with a park tool dag-2.2 to my surprise it really wasn't anywhere near straight.
So yes, would recommend checking the RD hanger, new or old, with a proper alignment tool.
When I checked with a park tool dag-2.2 to my surprise it really wasn't anywhere near straight.
So yes, would recommend checking the RD hanger, new or old, with a proper alignment tool.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress
I bought an Ultegra 12s 11-34 cassette somewhere around December 21 that I used for a couple hundred km. It made that known clicking sound (I removed the ring behind the cassette already). I switched to a Dura Ace cassette that remains silent still. I discovered the Ultegra cassette recently and decided to send it back to bike24 and see what happens. My experience with them is that they replace parts in almost all cases. But in this case, they decided to refund me and not send a replacement cassette. Make of that what you will.
This sounds like it's caused by something lifting or touching the chain which wears away with time.bmrk wrote: ↑Tue May 02, 2023 3:42 pmAs long as it shifts well try to ignore the clicking on the 5th cog and eventually it will go away. On both my ultegra and da 12 speed cassettes the clicking on the 5th cog disappeared after a good few hundreds of kms perhaps close to 1k.LedZeppelin007 wrote: ↑Tue May 02, 2023 3:30 pmSpent a bunch of time last night trying to get the shifting to an acceptable level. Started by making sure the hanger was straight (it was). Got the chain to the right size. Set the b-limit as close to spec as possible.
Still having issues with a couple of cogs making noise (4th and 5th and, sometimes 7th). With the 11-34, also had an issue where it was having difficulty shifting from 12th to 11th.
Is it fair to assume that my cassettes are bad? What else is there to do?
I would certainly order up an R9200 11-34t if it was guaranteed to work at this point as that would be cheaper than taking it to the bike shop having them diagnose it and submit a warranty claim to Shimano.
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Im experiencing the same issue on the 21 cog. Other than that I love the rim brake groupset on my madone!
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Hey folks,
I'm bothered by an annoying issue and too stupid to handle it, so maybe you can help out: I ride the Ostro in 52 with an Ultegra Di2 12-speed / Dura Ace Stages powermeter crankset. The micro adjustment of the front derailleur is already maxed out to -19, but distance of the outer plate to the chain (big chainring, smallest cog) is still clearly more than 1 mm. What mistake on my part am I overlooking? Any ideas?
I'm bothered by an annoying issue and too stupid to handle it, so maybe you can help out: I ride the Ostro in 52 with an Ultegra Di2 12-speed / Dura Ace Stages powermeter crankset. The micro adjustment of the front derailleur is already maxed out to -19, but distance of the outer plate to the chain (big chainring, smallest cog) is still clearly more than 1 mm. What mistake on my part am I overlooking? Any ideas?
What helped me on my SL7 Expert was to setup the FD again from scratch. I set the height at 1.5~2 mm above the big chainring and then REALLY angled the tail of the FD inwards. Almost excessively. Then I straightened it and brought it in line with the big chainring using the support bolt. This creates tension on the whole FD and FD support assembly making it sturdy. After that I could set my micro adjustment properly.Co0kieMonster wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 1:08 amHey folks,
I'm bothered by an annoying issue and too stupid to handle it, so maybe you can help out: I ride the Ostro in 52 with an Ultegra Di2 12-speed / Dura Ace Stages powermeter crankset. The micro adjustment of the front derailleur is already maxed out to -19, but distance of the outer plate to the chain (big chainring, smallest cog) is still clearly more than 1 mm. What mistake on my part am I overlooking? Any ideas?
'24 S-Works Tarmac SL8 RTP - soon™
'22 Tarmac SL7 Expert | Ultegra R8100 | Alpinist CL / Custom Rapide CLX 2x60
'19 Diverge E5 Comp
'18 Epic HT Comp Carbon WMN
'18 TCR Adv Pro 1 Disc
'22 Tarmac SL7 Expert | Ultegra R8100 | Alpinist CL / Custom Rapide CLX 2x60
'19 Diverge E5 Comp
'18 Epic HT Comp Carbon WMN
'18 TCR Adv Pro 1 Disc
To the people who switched from 11 to 12-speed:
Do you feel the extra 5mm reach from the new STI?
Have you changed your stem/bar because of that?
Do you feel the extra 5mm reach from the new STI?
Have you changed your stem/bar because of that?
No.
If I did not read this here right now, I would not have known.
"In my experience, there is only one motivation, and that is DESIRE.
No reason or principle contain it or stand against it........"
No reason or principle contain it or stand against it........"
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