This is one of the best post in this forum in the last years, thanks @senergy.senergy wrote:Sorry for resurrecting this old post, but the internet always points to it as being the most knowledgeable for the dreaded eTap rear derailleur stops shifting properly. So, I thought I would add my 2 cents on what I’ve found. (I joined WW specifically although I have lurked here many times)
I have had Red eTap on my bike for the last 3 years with over 15k km with zero issues. I’ve since moved it to a TT bike with a blip box and still no issues. Important to note that approx. 13k km’s were with a waxed chain, i.e. clean!
I came across a cheap rear derailleur that doesn’t shift properly and after reading this thread I thought I can fix it, so I took the risk.
The derailleur was a mess, mud and grim everywhere! So, I thought sure, those pivot points will be cause.
While the pivots were disconnected I tested the derailleur and found that it still had issues. So my issues were going to be inside the body. After removing all the screws I couldn’t figure out how to take it apart. There was a small gap so I sprayed circuit board cleaner in and watched muddy liquid flow out… That didn’t sit well for a quick win.
I struggled some more and eventually using a chisel and hammer removed the arm which allowed the body to come apart. You can see in the pictures that the arm goes onto a splined shaft.
As you can see in the pictures the inside was full of rust, mud and other debris.
(Note, I couldn’t find pics of inside the rear derailleur anywhere)
And with all apart it still failed to shift properly
After multiple cleaning with a circuit board cleaner and then a little bit of electrical lubricant you can see it all looks clean
And now shifts properly!! (I really should have taken it further apart and check on the reduction gear pivot points, but it seemed a little risky)
I’ve since put it all back together and run through 100ish full gear changes and it works perfectly.
Thanks Jugi and XCProMD for the help.
Pretty much almost every eTap RD can be repaired following your advice. Unfortunately the sealing is quite poor.
On the other hand the concept is very robust , as opposed to the Di2 problems with the position potentiometer which are next to impossible to repair.
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