Look 795 Blade
Moderator: robbosmans
I've just looked from my phone without being logged in and I can see it. If any other member could chime in and verify if the image is loading it would tell if the issue is on my part or something's happening on your end. Thanks.
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Yes, on my phone I can see it fine. That also points out that you did the one way race with https://www.transiberica.club/transpyrenees/ whereas I'm doing TPR03 with Lost Dot ... which is both ways so a very different route.
I'm sure there's a lot of similarities in terms of admin and personal mgt, but the race is v different I think. Cheers
I'm sure there's a lot of similarities in terms of admin and personal mgt, but the race is v different I think. Cheers
Oh! Didn't quite get that on your initial post. Sorry. Wish you a nice race.Chan73 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 8:27 pmYes, on my phone I can see it fine. That also points out that you did the one way race with https://www.transiberica.club/transpyrenees/ whereas I'm doing TPR03 with Lost Dot ... which is both ways so a very different route.
I'm sure there's a lot of similarities in terms of admin and personal mgt, but the race is v different I think. Cheers
Question for you regarding my Aeropost 3 expander and fixing screw.
I've continued to have seat post noise and have tried all recommendations posted here with varied success, but eventually the noise returns. One thing I've now noticed is that the fixing screw in the Look manual is a 4 mm hex screw, whereas mine is a 2.5 torx screw. Why would mine be different to the manual? I know the frame is legit, so it seems bizarre that it's different.
I'm thinking my next move may be to buy a new expander.
I've continued to have seat post noise and have tried all recommendations posted here with varied success, but eventually the noise returns. One thing I've now noticed is that the fixing screw in the Look manual is a 4 mm hex screw, whereas mine is a 2.5 torx screw. Why would mine be different to the manual? I know the frame is legit, so it seems bizarre that it's different.
I'm thinking my next move may be to buy a new expander.
Look 795 Blade RS
Sram Red AXS
DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 50
Sram Red AXS
DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 50
Hello everyone. my first comment here 
Happy owner of of the RS Blade since July 2021.
I am looking to upgrade my handlebar as I am not a huge fan of the ADH that came with the bike (mainly in terms of looks).
Last week I shoot a question to the dealer that i bought my bike whether the new handlebar of the new Blade model would fit.
Bad news however, as they explained (copy-pasting):
The way the cables are routed is different with your bike the cables are running trough the bearing and the fork is not round but partly flattened. Where with the new bike the cables are running in front of the bearing. Maybe we could get the cable routing working with some mixing and adapting the spacers. But the main problem is the clamping system of the new handlebar. Because the your fork is not round and the new clamping is, it will not properly be fixed. Then we have to add some metal moon shaped spacers but this will be difficult to make. To conclude it will be very difficult to make this work and maybe doable if you are handy and have a lot of time but for us this is too risky (that it still not fits) and cost us too much time/work to make it work.
Have you heard something similar?
any other integrated handlebar that you could suggest (and that would fit w/o cracks and performance issues?)
Happy owner of of the RS Blade since July 2021.
I am looking to upgrade my handlebar as I am not a huge fan of the ADH that came with the bike (mainly in terms of looks).
Last week I shoot a question to the dealer that i bought my bike whether the new handlebar of the new Blade model would fit.
Bad news however, as they explained (copy-pasting):
The way the cables are routed is different with your bike the cables are running trough the bearing and the fork is not round but partly flattened. Where with the new bike the cables are running in front of the bearing. Maybe we could get the cable routing working with some mixing and adapting the spacers. But the main problem is the clamping system of the new handlebar. Because the your fork is not round and the new clamping is, it will not properly be fixed. Then we have to add some metal moon shaped spacers but this will be difficult to make. To conclude it will be very difficult to make this work and maybe doable if you are handy and have a lot of time but for us this is too risky (that it still not fits) and cost us too much time/work to make it work.
Have you heard something similar?
any other integrated handlebar that you could suggest (and that would fit w/o cracks and performance issues?)
I use these and they work an absolute treat (for me). Oh, just noticed how much more they are than the set, I have. That's an outrageous price.tomkam79 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 27, 2023 2:16 pmHello everyone. my first comment here
Happy owner of of the RS Blade since July 2021.
I am looking to upgrade my handlebar as I am not a huge fan of the ADH that came with the bike (mainly in terms of looks).
Last week I shoot a question to the dealer that i bought my bike whether the new handlebar of the new Blade model would fit.
Bad news however, as they explained
Have you heard something similar?
any other integrated handlebar that you could suggest (and that would fit w/o cracks and performance issues?)
https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/type/ ... etron-aero
Look 795 Blade RS
Sram Red AXS
DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 50
Sram Red AXS
DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 50
Yes. The exact same was told to me by a Look dealer when asked about this subject.
I'm using an H10 by Yoeleo for a while now. If you want a clean look you have to design a headset spacer to join both handlebar and frame.
Beyond that, I'm loving my setup
Future upgrades:
- New cranks w/Power Meter (looking at the Rotor oval aero setup)
- Carbon aero bars (ideally the Enve Aero bars since they appear to work well with cable mechanical shifters)
Could you post some pics of your solution? Where did you get them made? I'm looking to do the same. Thanks.
Don't buy the Rotor road-version spider PM. It's wildly inaccurate and should be updated some time this year, to the same standard (and weight) as the new MTB one.neatoneto wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 3:26 pmIMG08839.JPG
Howdy, first post here. Got done swapping the OEM Look 38D's that came on my 795 Blade for the Enve Foundation 65's. Managed to cut the steerer as well by myself at home.
Future upgrades:
- New cranks w/Power Meter (looking at the Rotor oval aero setup)
- Carbon aero bars (ideally the Enve Aero bars since they appear to work well with cable mechanical shifters)
I have a 4iiii left arm power meter on mine and can't recommend it highly enough. Weighs nothing (9g), you can fit it to almost any crank (either buy from them directly pre-fitted for the major brands or you can send them your one to install onto), and accurate.
Personally I haven't found the need for left/right power either. I have the Garmin pedals on another bike and it always comes up in the region of 49/51 one way or another. Unless you have had some kind of an injury, I wouldn't expect any major imbalance.
Personally I haven't found the need for left/right power either. I have the Garmin pedals on another bike and it always comes up in the region of 49/51 one way or another. Unless you have had some kind of an injury, I wouldn't expect any major imbalance.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
