It's only a question of FD adjustment. There are zero issues even with Qrings when the FD is properly adjusted. Rotor Aero chainrings are also interesting for overall stiffness, they are very strong at high power output.wolflikeme wrote: ↑Fri Feb 18, 2022 5:25 pmI've found it to be pretty bad in my experience, I consistently drop my chain shifting up on the big ring when I had zero issues with an Ultegra chainring.ullmanz wrote: ↑Tue Feb 15, 2022 6:38 pmCan anyone comment on how the rotor chainrings perform compared to the Shimano chainrings?
I am a bit hesitant to switching to Rotor crankset + chainrings, because Shimano sets the gold standard for shifting performance. That said, I had an FSA crank for ages until a few years ago and was always happy with the shifting performance.
Rotor Aldhu
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On older stuff yeah, but on their current range I'd say the opposite. The DM chainrings in particular are super stiff and pick-up was at least as good as Ultegra, maybe even a shade better.wolflikeme wrote: ↑Fri Feb 18, 2022 5:25 pmI've found it to be pretty bad in my experience, I consistently drop my chain shifting up on the big ring when I had zero issues with an Ultegra chainring.ullmanz wrote: ↑Tue Feb 15, 2022 6:38 pmCan anyone comment on how the rotor chainrings perform compared to the Shimano chainrings?
I am a bit hesitant to switching to Rotor crankset + chainrings, because Shimano sets the gold standard for shifting performance. That said, I had an FSA crank for ages until a few years ago and was always happy with the shifting performance.
I think if you're consistently throwing the chain over on any chainrings (that aren't ultra flexy) it's a matter of FD adjustment. The chain can't fall if there isn't space for it to fall through.
Rotor Aero 5 bolt do that.
Set up FD correctly accordingto Shimano guide and chain won't go up to big ring when using middle of the cassette on Di2 FD. It keep catch and slip on the shift ramps because the ring and shift ramps are too thin.
So, to make it shift, we need to set FD to overshift a bit. Then, since it's an overshift, chain can sometime drop on the outside. If only the ring and shift ramp is 1mm thicker (or if we're still using thick 10sp chain and not thin 11/12), it could probably shift fine when FD is set up correctly and don't require that much FD overshift to help the chain up.
I think Aldhu should already addressed that since it's quite an obvious fault on prior generation.
Set up FD correctly accordingto Shimano guide and chain won't go up to big ring when using middle of the cassette on Di2 FD. It keep catch and slip on the shift ramps because the ring and shift ramps are too thin.
So, to make it shift, we need to set FD to overshift a bit. Then, since it's an overshift, chain can sometime drop on the outside. If only the ring and shift ramp is 1mm thicker (or if we're still using thick 10sp chain and not thin 11/12), it could probably shift fine when FD is set up correctly and don't require that much FD overshift to help the chain up.
I think Aldhu should already addressed that since it's quite an obvious fault on prior generation.
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I had a similar problem dropping chains continuously till I had a major crash. During the repair by Canyon they discovered the local shop *f##k* up big time and didn't properly set the crank with the preload causing a small side movement causing the chain to drop regularly shifting from small to big.
Caused me 4months recovery. Maybe have a look there too
Caused me 4months recovery. Maybe have a look there too
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That's terrible. Was the Canyon running Rotor chainrings?wickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:48 pmI had a similar problem dropping chains continuously till I had a major crash. During the repair by Canyon they discovered the local shop *f##k* up big time and didn't properly set the crank with the preload causing a small side movement causing the chain to drop regularly shifting from small to big.
Caused me 4months recovery. Maybe have a look there too
I've just order a set of Rotor 4-bolt aero chainrings in 52-36 for my P2M. I'm hoping these rings won't give me any problem. These new gen rings look quite stiff with the ribs on the backside. My LBS wrench told me he is having good luck with oval or round Rotor rings lately.
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Yup. My Canyon Endurace runs rotor aldhuand p2m ngeco with Praxis rings. No issues but if you forget to properly install things you can be in for a surprise. Not the fault of Rotor but my local shop. I had some discussions there but it is futile Just move on and forget about them Canyon repair shop in the Netherlands told me this that it was not properly installed and the preload was just loose. So hurry hurry job of the shop.ipenguinking wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:00 pmThat's terrible. Was the Canyon running Rotor chainrings?wickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:48 pmI had a similar problem dropping chains continuously till I had a major crash. During the repair by Canyon they discovered the local shop *f##k* up big time and didn't properly set the crank with the preload causing a small side movement causing the chain to drop regularly shifting from small to big.
Caused me 4months recovery. Maybe have a look there too
I've just order a set of Rotor 4-bolt aero chainrings in 52-36 for my P2M. I'm hoping these rings won't give me any problem. These new gen rings look quite stiff with the ribs on the backside. My LBS wrench told me he is having good luck with oval or round Rotor rings lately.
I think to many people focus on the stiffness of the rings. I dont see how they can feel that as the force on them is 95% tangential. So only if you really have weak things and I doubt that you get a problem. It is more the way the tooth profile that determines shifting. And like you have on SRAM the motors are much more powerfull in the back so that compensates for the shift ramps. There are many ways to solve a problem.
But if I see those failed Dura-ace cranks it makes me shiver. Also my dealer had several replacements the last 2 years for these cranks.
Another thing is those super expensive Carbon-Ti rings. Yeas I can understand that if they weigh less. But the current crop weighs more then the rotor 4 bolt stock rings at 133 gr... Curious to test them
My power output is not earth chattering at +-1200watt but most is generated by high torque (very low cadence) instead of rpm.
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I actually learned the importance of chainring stiffness from riding mechanical Sram Red 22 group years ago. To make the long story short, I experienced chain drop from 39 to 53t randomly then I learned there is this stiffer 'pro' 53t ring availalble. The 'pro' 53t ring looks exactly same as the regular version except it is slightly thicker and heavier, plus a small 'pro' print on the back. All ramps and pings are the same. My LBS installed the new ring without touching anything else. The chain drop problem never came back and the shifting is crispier too. My conclusion is flexing chainring is bad for shifting, probably same logic as play in the spidle but in less degree.
Not doubting your experience, but I had a Cannondale Spidering that did the same thing. Looked it over very closely, and found one tooth that looked like it had gotten twisted a little. Twisted it back straight and never dropped my chain again.ipenguinking wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 8:21 pmI actually learned the importance of chainring stiffness from riding mechanical Sram Red 22 group years ago. To make the long story short, I experienced chain drop from 39 to 53t randomly then I learned there is this stiffer 'pro' 53t ring availalble. The 'pro' 53t ring looks exactly same as the regular version except it is slightly thicker and heavier, plus a small 'pro' print on the back. All ramps and pings are the same. My LBS installed the new ring without touching anything else. The chain drop problem never came back and the shifting is crispier too. My conclusion is flexing chainring is bad for shifting, probably same logic as play in the spidle but in less degree.
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I recently found that after a period of use of Aldhu carbon cranks, there will be a circle of circular cracks on the back of the pedal holes, please pay attention.
Have any pictures?ChairmanJiang wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 7:52 amI recently found that after a period of use of Aldhu carbon cranks, there will be a circle of circular cracks on the back of the pedal holes, please pay attention.
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Because it is the picture that the owner of the shop showed me, there are several cases. He was worried that it would affect sales, so he took the quality assurance process in a low-key manner and did not publish pictures.fizzaz wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 3:02 pmHave any pictures?ChairmanJiang wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 7:52 amI recently found that after a period of use of Aldhu carbon cranks, there will be a circle of circular cracks on the back of the pedal holes, please pay attention.
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I'll take things that never happened for 500.ChairmanJiang wrote: ↑Fri Mar 11, 2022 2:54 amBecause it is the picture that the owner of the shop showed me, there are several cases. He was worried that it would affect sales, so he took the quality assurance process in a low-key manner and did not publish pictures.fizzaz wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 3:02 pmHave any pictures?ChairmanJiang wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 7:52 amI recently found that after a period of use of Aldhu carbon cranks, there will be a circle of circular cracks on the back of the pedal holes, please pay attention.
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