Campagnolo 12-Speed

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rudye9mr
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by rudye9mr

V3Rs wrote:
Tue Nov 01, 2022 3:22 pm
Thanks!
Hope it works out. If in riding you realize perhaps you ought to remove a link, you will still be within spec.


Q: what mileage are ppl seeing on front chainrings 12s?

Is there a recommended mileage to change out or a tool to check wear of front chainrings similar to chain elongation with a vernier?

by Weenie


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V3Rs
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by V3Rs

I believe there is some sort of accepted rule of thumb that said for every few (I am not sure how many) chain renewals, the chainring/cassette should be changed out. Perhaps someone will chime in here with the recommendation.

Butcher
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by Butcher

The load is spread out over so many teeth that with the proper maintenence, they are almost lifetime. I suspect the biggest wear is the chain lifting pins and those could wear out real quick if you shift under a lot of load.

That is the only reason why have replaced my front rings, worn lifting pins.

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

Butcher wrote:The load is spread out over so many teeth that with the proper maintenence, they are almost lifetime. I suspect the biggest wear is the chain lifting pins and those could wear out real quick if you shift under a lot of load.

That is the only reason why have replaced my front rings, worn lifting pins.
Agreed. I’m pretty sure my 11 speed Record rings from 2013 outlasted several chains and the cassettes have been passed on to friends to carry on with.


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smokva
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by smokva

V3Rs wrote:
Tue Nov 01, 2022 2:08 pm
This is ACTUALLY a simple question-

Referring to the diagram above, I am at about 16mm and when I take a link away, I am less than 10mm. So, as I said 15 posts earlier, which is the preference; less than 10 or more than 15?
In your case 16 mm is much better than below 10. Take into account that this value will drop as the chain stretches...so if you start with 16 with time you are going in good direction, if you start with less than 10 with time you are drifting apart from sweet spot 10-15 even more.
And yes, with chain strets this effect is going to be noticable, at 0,5% stretch (when you need to replace it) old chain is arround 7mm longer than new one so I suspect 16mm value will be more arround 10 at that time. If you start with much less than 10, with time chain will start rubbing on upper pully (happened to me when I let one chain reach 1% elongation).

usr
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by usr

I usually ride cassettes until they fail on a new chain, always keep a spare in stock to not lose days waiting for parts when needed. And never go on vacation with a new chain that hasn't been tested on the existing cassette. (I failed this last rule more often than you would imagine, but I have been lucky reach time so far). I'm not entirely convinced that this will still hold for 12s, the amazing lifetime of the chains combined with perhaps lower lifetime of teeth might allow a cassette to out-age a chain. But the best way of discovery is riding, without bothering too much.

I've never had a front ring actually fail from wear, in some defined way, but I did notice considerable front shifting improvement after replacing. But I wouldn't expect anything like that before the ring has outlived a few cassettes (and plenty of chains). Chances are your ring will EOL from some spontaneous mishap before it runs out of service life from wear.

V3Rs
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by V3Rs

smokva wrote:
Thu Nov 03, 2022 4:45 pm
V3Rs wrote:
Tue Nov 01, 2022 2:08 pm
This is ACTUALLY a simple question-

Referring to the diagram above, I am at about 16mm and when I take a link away, I am less than 10mm. So, as I said 15 posts earlier, which is the preference; less than 10 or more than 15?
In your case 16 mm is much better than below 10. Take into account that this value will drop as the chain stretches...so if you start with 16 with time you are going in good direction, if you start with less than 10 with time you are drifting apart from sweet spot 10-15 even more.
And yes, with chain strets this effect is going to be noticable, at 0,5% stretch (when you need to replace it) old chain is arround 7mm longer than new one so I suspect 16mm value will be more arround 10 at that time. If you start with much less than 10, with time chain will start rubbing on upper pully (happened to me when I let one chain reach 1% elongation).
Either you or I are thinking oppositely. If I start with 16 and the chain stretches, then I will have more distance between the two critical parts...same for starting with 10- stretch should, I think, increase it beyond 10. hmmmmmm????

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Miller
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by Miller

@V3Rs, nope, because the lower arm of the derailleur takes up chain slack by swinging upwards. That moves the chain towards the upper pulley. Imagine putting on a new chain that's too long: it will be too close to the pulley. You move it away from the pulley by shortening it.

rudye9mr
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by rudye9mr

Crossed 10k km on front chainrings..3rd chain 2nd cassette...hence the query.

DS bearing needed changing at abt 8k..put in a usb..NDS is fine so far.

Greny
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by Greny

Probably asked before , does Campy 12v works on Cannondale SLS2 crankset ? They crankset is being used with Ultegra 11V atm.

2nd question , anyone knows black Friday deals on Campy stuff in Europe ? Wanna buy chorus or Record group 12V Disc or old stock 11 eps disc. All tips welcome :)

Leon
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by Leon

Yes, that will work just fine. I run 12spd Record on a SI HG crankset with 11spd TA Syrius (which is Shimano style fit on the spider).
Ride bikes, not tanks!

Greny
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by Greny

Ty, just need to find set at nice price 👍

moonoi
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by moonoi

Anyone had a problem with SR12 EPS slipping on the 11 cog, I’ve tried a new chain (KMC and Campy) and a new cassette and every time when putting out 200w+ the chain slips like it’s on a worn cog, but since everything is new I’m completely lost for where or how to troubleshoot this problem further. It’s installed on a Look 795 Blade RS, and taken off my old Canyon Aeroad CFR where it worked perfectly!

Note it doesn’t slip in any other gears just the smallest 11 cog…

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

Check the hanger.

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Miller
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by Miller

moonoi wrote:
Fri Dec 23, 2022 3:54 pm
Anyone had a problem with SR12 EPS slipping on the 11 cog, I’ve tried a new chain (KMC and Campy) and a new cassette and every time when putting out 200w+ the chain slips like it’s on a worn cog, but since everything is new I’m completely lost for where or how to troubleshoot this problem further. It’s installed on a Look 795 Blade RS, and taken off my old Canyon Aeroad CFR where it worked perfectly!

Note it doesn’t slip in any other gears just the smallest 11 cog…
Are you using the correct lockring? It definitely used to be possible on 11sp at least to fit an incorrect lockring (too large diameter) that prevented the chain from fully engaging with the 11 sprocket teeth. Caught a few people out.

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