Road Disc Brakes- Rotor Choice

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

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steveadore
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:01 am

by steveadore

What's the latest re: DT Swiss 240S (non-EXP) 12x100 front hubs with the tapered endcap on the rotor side? As many people have pointed out, internal serration Shimano centerlock lock rings cannot be safely installed (due to the end cap tapering), while most external lock rings (designed for 15mm MTB front axles) are too thick and can rub the left fork leg.
There's the cheap and heavy steel Shimano (Tourney level) thin external serration lock ring, and an equally thin Jagwire one (which is slightly lighter). But has anyone come up with a better solution?
I can't believe DT Swiss is still selling these road wheels with that idiotic Dicut/240S hub design

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12456
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

I put Galfer Road Wave rotors on one of my wheelsets and the way they’ve pinned the centerlock adapter into the native 6-bolt interface makes it incompatible with some internally notched lockrings that have big flanges. Otherwise they seem functional…

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alanyu
Posts: 1503
Joined: Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:10 pm

by alanyu

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Fri Jun 09, 2023 7:19 am
I put Galfer Road Wave rotors on one of my wheelsets and the way they’ve pinned the centerlock adapter into the native 6-bolt interface makes it incompatible with some internally notched lockrings that have big flanges. Otherwise they seem functional…
I think the spacer/shim is doing the trick, even with their own lockring, as its flange has a larger OD than those pins....

MarcFaFo
Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:58 pm

by MarcFaFo

Does anyone has experience with the disc rotor from Italian brand Braking. Then specifically the LightWave CL version.
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl. Therefore I am looking for something that is better and not irritating me during my cycling holiday.
Last edited by MarcFaFo on Mon Jul 03, 2023 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

RadB
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2020 3:24 am

by RadB

I thought Shimano was supposed to have changed their ways? I bought two DA cl900 160mm rotors, both were not straight out of the box, one moreso than the other.

I have another two 140mm en route, I hope they are better.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12456
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

TBH I end up truing every rotor out of the package. I’ve only ever received one new rotor that has met my personal standard for run-out.

Nereth
Posts: 250
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2023 10:18 am

by Nereth

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Sun Jul 02, 2023 10:29 pm
TBH I end up truing every rotor out of the package. I’ve only ever received one new rotor that has met my personal standard for run-out.
It feels like the moment you touch them with a truing tool, you are implanting a bunch of residual stresses and gauranteeing they warp the next time you get them hot?

It might just be how I ride/my weight (86kg guy, and one of my common routes involves a single hard brake application which often causes instant brake fade), but I find my brake rotors go downhill really fast after the first time I true them. They will need truing again in a month. Then again. Then again after 2 weeks. Etc.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12456
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

Nereth wrote:
Mon Jul 03, 2023 4:16 am

It feels like the moment you touch them with a truing tool, you are implanting a bunch of residual stresses and gauranteeing they warp the next time you get them hot?

This hasn’t been the case for me. Once trued, my rotors seem to stay true. I don’t use IceTech rotors though.

Nereth
Posts: 250
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2023 10:18 am

by Nereth

Ah. What rotors do you use? Sorry if it's already been said.

I kill my icetech rotors on the regular and have been considering buying some "low end cheap" rotors that are just a solid chunk of unwarpable steel.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12456
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

Nereth wrote:
Mon Jul 03, 2023 4:33 am
Ah. What rotors do you use? Sorry if it's already been said.

I kill my icetech rotors on the regular and have been considering buying some "low end cheap" rotors that are just a solid chunk of unwarpable steel.

SRAM Centerline X mostly, but recently bought a pair of Galfer Wave as well. The Galfers require the use of small diameter centerlock lockrings or a shim to avoid touching the pins on the adapter 6-bolt interface. They also make a very slight fluting sound with my SRAM HRD calipers/pads after heavy braking…ie the air trapped those vents is being superheated and whistling through tiny gaps.

Nereth
Posts: 250
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2023 10:18 am

by Nereth

Just a note for everyone - I tried Campy rotors with my Shimano pads/brakes. They don't warp, so, mission succesful there.

However, this combo is actually really dangerous - if you get this combination real hot and pull real hard (my use case is basically an 86kg guy doing an 80kph->0kph emergency stop), the shimano organic pads rock/squish into the slots on the campy rotor and then the passing slots basically machine the pad down instantly. The levers pull straight to the bars. You can't achieve full brake force, and I reckon if you do it about 3-4 times, you'll completely consume the life of the pads. I did it twice, with a pair of new pads, and they were more than half gone in a single ride.

So I think 1) full steel construction is good to prevent warping 2) campy rotors are a bad idea if you have shimano pads.

Shimano sintered metallic pads don't seem to have the same issue, however I am pretty disappointed in the braking power unless you get them hot first - although that might be because sanding and cleaning the rotors (with IPA) was not sufficient to be able to switch the same rotors to metallic after being on organics (which is not strictly recommended).

I want to go back to organic pads, on steel rotors, and am considering getting some swissstop rotors to allow that, as their slot pattern looks like it would better support the pads. I can find the "race" versions at the same price as the "pro" versions, but I've emailed SwissStop to ask if the lightweight "race" versions might have more propensity to warp than the Pro ones or not, so I can get the ones that will give me the least drama, given my history.

ND4SPD
Posts: 168
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 4:10 am

by ND4SPD

MarcFaFo wrote:
Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:23 pm
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent)...
What pads were you using? Most people usually overheat the pads (organic pads). Semi-metallic pads have better temperature range, and they are more resistant to fading e.g. Galfer green (G1554T) or blue (G1455)... Also, heavy riders could consider going to 180 mm discs...

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Mr.Gib
Posts: 5577
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Location: eh?

by Mr.Gib

MarcFaFo wrote:
Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:23 pm
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl.
RadB wrote:
Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:59 pm
I thought Shimano was supposed to have changed their ways? I bought two DA cl900 160mm rotors, both were not straight out of the box, one moreso than the other.
Nereth wrote:
Mon Jul 03, 2023 4:16 am
It feels like the moment you touch them with a truing tool, you are implanting a bunch of residual stresses and gauranteeing they warp the next time you get them hot?

It might just be how I ride/my weight (86kg guy, and one of my common routes involves a single hard brake application which often causes instant brake fade), but I find my brake rotors go downhill really fast after the first time I true them. They will need truing again in a month. Then again. Then again after 2 weeks. Etc.
Nereth wrote:
Mon Jul 03, 2023 4:33 am
I kill my icetech rotors on the regular and have been considering buying some "low end cheap" rotors that are just a solid chunk of unwarpable steel.
Nereth wrote:
Fri Sep 29, 2023 4:02 am
Just a note for everyone - I tried Campy rotors with my Shimano pads/brakes. They don't warp, so, mission succesful there.

However, this combo is actually really dangerous - if you get this combination real hot and pull real hard (my use case is basically an 86kg guy doing an 80kph->0kph emergency stop), the shimano organic pads rock/squish into the slots on the campy rotor and then the passing slots basically machine the pad down instantly. The levers pull straight to the bars. You can't achieve full brake force, and I reckon if you do it about 3-4 times, you'll completely consume the life of the pads. I did it twice, with a pair of new pads, and they were more than half gone in a single ride.

So I think 1) full steel construction is good to prevent warping 2) campy rotors are a bad idea if you have shimano pads.

Shimano sintered metallic pads don't seem to have the same issue, however I am pretty disappointed in the braking power unless you get them hot first - although that might be because sanding and cleaning the rotors (with IPA) was not sufficient to be able to switch the same rotors to metallic after being on organics (which is not strictly recommended).
Haha, just decided to prep one of my disc brake bikes for my next mountain trip. Was thinking about the Campy rotors for more bite.(Currently using Sram). Glad I checked this thread. As for the rest, small sample I know, but what a shit show. Oh well, back to rim for travelling.

Oh, @Nereth, re the Mortorolo, did you descend to Mazzo di Valtellina? If so, that's a big no-no. The road to Grosio is half as steep. Or maybe you went over the other side to Mono? That descent shouldn't blow up your brakes.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

bikeboy1tr
Posts: 1395
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 am
Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

I have been using the Now8 Rotors with Amp pads with no issues, no noises and no fade but not on long mountain descents.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
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iamraymond
Posts: 624
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

MarcFaFo wrote:
Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:23 pm
Does anyone has experience with the disc rotor from Italian brand Braking. Then specifically the LightWave CL version.
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl. Therefore I am looking for something that is better and not irritating me during my cycling holiday.
I experienced the same thing with my Galfers. Once they get hot, they'll start making noise, then they'll start screaming and vibrating. Once they cool down a bit, the start to behave again, but I don't think they ever get back to their original state after they've been overheated. I'm waiting for my replacements to arrive (also Galfer Waves) so I can see if these will be better. It's too bad because the overheated rotors have plenty of life left - 1.79mm on my calipers.

by Weenie


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