Road Disc Brakes- Rotor Choice
Moderator: robbosmans
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What's the latest re: DT Swiss 240S (non-EXP) 12x100 front hubs with the tapered endcap on the rotor side? As many people have pointed out, internal serration Shimano centerlock lock rings cannot be safely installed (due to the end cap tapering), while most external lock rings (designed for 15mm MTB front axles) are too thick and can rub the left fork leg.
There's the cheap and heavy steel Shimano (Tourney level) thin external serration lock ring, and an equally thin Jagwire one (which is slightly lighter). But has anyone come up with a better solution?
I can't believe DT Swiss is still selling these road wheels with that idiotic Dicut/240S hub design
There's the cheap and heavy steel Shimano (Tourney level) thin external serration lock ring, and an equally thin Jagwire one (which is slightly lighter). But has anyone come up with a better solution?
I can't believe DT Swiss is still selling these road wheels with that idiotic Dicut/240S hub design
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I put Galfer Road Wave rotors on one of my wheelsets and the way they’ve pinned the centerlock adapter into the native 6-bolt interface makes it incompatible with some internally notched lockrings that have big flanges. Otherwise they seem functional…
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I think the spacer/shim is doing the trick, even with their own lockring, as its flange has a larger OD than those pins....TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Fri Jun 09, 2023 7:19 amI put Galfer Road Wave rotors on one of my wheelsets and the way they’ve pinned the centerlock adapter into the native 6-bolt interface makes it incompatible with some internally notched lockrings that have big flanges. Otherwise they seem functional…
Does anyone has experience with the disc rotor from Italian brand Braking. Then specifically the LightWave CL version.
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl. Therefore I am looking for something that is better and not irritating me during my cycling holiday.
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl. Therefore I am looking for something that is better and not irritating me during my cycling holiday.
Last edited by MarcFaFo on Mon Jul 03, 2023 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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TBH I end up truing every rotor out of the package. I’ve only ever received one new rotor that has met my personal standard for run-out.
It feels like the moment you touch them with a truing tool, you are implanting a bunch of residual stresses and gauranteeing they warp the next time you get them hot?TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 10:29 pmTBH I end up truing every rotor out of the package. I’ve only ever received one new rotor that has met my personal standard for run-out.
It might just be how I ride/my weight (86kg guy, and one of my common routes involves a single hard brake application which often causes instant brake fade), but I find my brake rotors go downhill really fast after the first time I true them. They will need truing again in a month. Then again. Then again after 2 weeks. Etc.
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This hasn’t been the case for me. Once trued, my rotors seem to stay true. I don’t use IceTech rotors though.
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SRAM Centerline X mostly, but recently bought a pair of Galfer Wave as well. The Galfers require the use of small diameter centerlock lockrings or a shim to avoid touching the pins on the adapter 6-bolt interface. They also make a very slight fluting sound with my SRAM HRD calipers/pads after heavy braking…ie the air trapped those vents is being superheated and whistling through tiny gaps.
Just a note for everyone - I tried Campy rotors with my Shimano pads/brakes. They don't warp, so, mission succesful there.
However, this combo is actually really dangerous - if you get this combination real hot and pull real hard (my use case is basically an 86kg guy doing an 80kph->0kph emergency stop), the shimano organic pads rock/squish into the slots on the campy rotor and then the passing slots basically machine the pad down instantly. The levers pull straight to the bars. You can't achieve full brake force, and I reckon if you do it about 3-4 times, you'll completely consume the life of the pads. I did it twice, with a pair of new pads, and they were more than half gone in a single ride.
So I think 1) full steel construction is good to prevent warping 2) campy rotors are a bad idea if you have shimano pads.
Shimano sintered metallic pads don't seem to have the same issue, however I am pretty disappointed in the braking power unless you get them hot first - although that might be because sanding and cleaning the rotors (with IPA) was not sufficient to be able to switch the same rotors to metallic after being on organics (which is not strictly recommended).
I want to go back to organic pads, on steel rotors, and am considering getting some swissstop rotors to allow that, as their slot pattern looks like it would better support the pads. I can find the "race" versions at the same price as the "pro" versions, but I've emailed SwissStop to ask if the lightweight "race" versions might have more propensity to warp than the Pro ones or not, so I can get the ones that will give me the least drama, given my history.
However, this combo is actually really dangerous - if you get this combination real hot and pull real hard (my use case is basically an 86kg guy doing an 80kph->0kph emergency stop), the shimano organic pads rock/squish into the slots on the campy rotor and then the passing slots basically machine the pad down instantly. The levers pull straight to the bars. You can't achieve full brake force, and I reckon if you do it about 3-4 times, you'll completely consume the life of the pads. I did it twice, with a pair of new pads, and they were more than half gone in a single ride.
So I think 1) full steel construction is good to prevent warping 2) campy rotors are a bad idea if you have shimano pads.
Shimano sintered metallic pads don't seem to have the same issue, however I am pretty disappointed in the braking power unless you get them hot first - although that might be because sanding and cleaning the rotors (with IPA) was not sufficient to be able to switch the same rotors to metallic after being on organics (which is not strictly recommended).
I want to go back to organic pads, on steel rotors, and am considering getting some swissstop rotors to allow that, as their slot pattern looks like it would better support the pads. I can find the "race" versions at the same price as the "pro" versions, but I've emailed SwissStop to ask if the lightweight "race" versions might have more propensity to warp than the Pro ones or not, so I can get the ones that will give me the least drama, given my history.
What pads were you using? Most people usually overheat the pads (organic pads). Semi-metallic pads have better temperature range, and they are more resistant to fading e.g. Galfer green (G1554T) or blue (G1455)... Also, heavy riders could consider going to 180 mm discs...
MarcFaFo wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:23 pmI overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl.
Nereth wrote: ↑Mon Jul 03, 2023 4:16 amIt feels like the moment you touch them with a truing tool, you are implanting a bunch of residual stresses and gauranteeing they warp the next time you get them hot?
It might just be how I ride/my weight (86kg guy, and one of my common routes involves a single hard brake application which often causes instant brake fade), but I find my brake rotors go downhill really fast after the first time I true them. They will need truing again in a month. Then again. Then again after 2 weeks. Etc.
Haha, just decided to prep one of my disc brake bikes for my next mountain trip. Was thinking about the Campy rotors for more bite.(Currently using Sram). Glad I checked this thread. As for the rest, small sample I know, but what a shit show. Oh well, back to rim for travelling.Nereth wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 4:02 amJust a note for everyone - I tried Campy rotors with my Shimano pads/brakes. They don't warp, so, mission succesful there.
However, this combo is actually really dangerous - if you get this combination real hot and pull real hard (my use case is basically an 86kg guy doing an 80kph->0kph emergency stop), the shimano organic pads rock/squish into the slots on the campy rotor and then the passing slots basically machine the pad down instantly. The levers pull straight to the bars. You can't achieve full brake force, and I reckon if you do it about 3-4 times, you'll completely consume the life of the pads. I did it twice, with a pair of new pads, and they were more than half gone in a single ride.
So I think 1) full steel construction is good to prevent warping 2) campy rotors are a bad idea if you have shimano pads.
Shimano sintered metallic pads don't seem to have the same issue, however I am pretty disappointed in the braking power unless you get them hot first - although that might be because sanding and cleaning the rotors (with IPA) was not sufficient to be able to switch the same rotors to metallic after being on organics (which is not strictly recommended).
Oh, @Nereth, re the Mortorolo, did you descend to Mazzo di Valtellina? If so, that's a big no-no. The road to Grosio is half as steep. Or maybe you went over the other side to Mono? That descent shouldn't blow up your brakes.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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I have been using the Now8 Rotors with Amp pads with no issues, no noises and no fade but not on long mountain descents.
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I experienced the same thing with my Galfers. Once they get hot, they'll start making noise, then they'll start screaming and vibrating. Once they cool down a bit, the start to behave again, but I don't think they ever get back to their original state after they've been overheated. I'm waiting for my replacements to arrive (also Galfer Waves) so I can see if these will be better. It's too bad because the overheated rotors have plenty of life left - 1.79mm on my calipers.MarcFaFo wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 9:23 pmDoes anyone has experience with the disc rotor from Italian brand Braking. Then specifically the LightWave CL version.
I overheated my Galfers last week in the Dolimites when descending the Mortirolo (18% decent) and a car infront of me did not let me pass. They started to rattle and scream and since then they have been horrible in every decent. When they start to heat they start to scream and howl. Therefore I am looking for something that is better and not irritating me during my cycling holiday.
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