Chain lubricants
Moderator: robbosmans
I've used RnR Gold and currently using Dumonde Tech, I live in a rainy area, plus I do bike camping, and with either one I didn't hear squeaking either during rain or afterward. I will say this, the RnR after a rain would start to make noise about a couple of rides later, while the Dumonde Tech would be going strong through several showers of rain and days of no rain. Dumonde Tech does require that you take a rag and wipe it down after each ride, which you should do with any lube, but it seems to be very important to do that with Dumonde Tech.
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Wannabe first-time waxer here, so apologies if the question is silly - I've read the last ten pages of this thread and quickly glanced through ZFC's guide with all the key learnings.
I was thinking whether to use a "two pot" approach to reset contamination after a wet ride, rather than just dip the chain in boiling water. Clearly in this case one would use more wax, so I was wondering whether one could have cheap household paraffin (e.g. gulf wax) in their "reset pot" and keep the better wax (e.g. Silca, MSW) only in the second pot? I fear the answer is no, but thought I'd ask.
(also, is there a video showing this approach to resetting contamination? I know I can read about it, but seeing it done would be nice)
I was thinking whether to use a "two pot" approach to reset contamination after a wet ride, rather than just dip the chain in boiling water. Clearly in this case one would use more wax, so I was wondering whether one could have cheap household paraffin (e.g. gulf wax) in their "reset pot" and keep the better wax (e.g. Silca, MSW) only in the second pot? I fear the answer is no, but thought I'd ask.
(also, is there a video showing this approach to resetting contamination? I know I can read about it, but seeing it done would be nice)
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I’d say pour boiling water over the chain to get rid of external contamination, then dip the chain in a small amount of plain paraffin. Pull it out and shake the excess off before dipping it in the pot of MSW/Silca/etc. The volume of wax you’re carrying over is so slight, I wouldn’t worry too much about it.
As a reminder, we’re dealing with a fraction of a watt between plain paraffin and paraffin+additives at 250W input.
Or just use plain paraffin…period. Add a mesh basket to the pot to suspend the chain while contaminants filter to the bottom.
As a reminder, we’re dealing with a fraction of a watt between plain paraffin and paraffin+additives at 250W input.
Or just use plain paraffin…period. Add a mesh basket to the pot to suspend the chain while contaminants filter to the bottom.
I'm on my second UK winter with waxing, and I don't bother with 2 pots. I just pour boiling water over the chains in a shallow plastic dish, and after wiping them down with a microfibre towel, they come out looking pristine. If there are rust spots on on the chain (or cassette) I add some citric acid powder to the water and the rust just wipes off. I am only using pure paraffin wax in a crockpot without additives now. Last year I put in PTFE powder, but it makes no noticeable difference in my opinion. I find this cheap Decathlon Wax Lube is great for top ups because it's a nice thickness for applying and doesn't attract dirt as seems to be just wax and water. One tip is to use a small head wire brush to remove wax from the quick links and chain ends to make rejoining the chain easier.robeambro wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:06 amWannabe first-time waxer here, so apologies if the question is silly - I've read the last ten pages of this thread and quickly glanced through ZFC's guide with all the key learnings.
I was thinking whether to use a "two pot" approach to reset contamination after a wet ride, rather than just dip the chain in boiling water. Clearly in this case one would use more wax, so I was wondering whether one could have cheap household paraffin (e.g. gulf wax) in their "reset pot" and keep the better wax (e.g. Silca, MSW) only in the second pot? I fear the answer is no, but thought I'd ask.
(also, is there a video showing this approach to resetting contamination? I know I can read about it, but seeing it done would be nice)
Last edited by bobones on Mon Jan 02, 2023 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Brief review of the Flower Power. It's good but probably not "that" good. I'll need more long term data to really decide though.
The problem with it is that the "wax" never truly hardens. It becomes quite mushy even though it is dry after 24 hours.
Pros:
1. Really no penetration issues. It's really easy to apply it. Doesn't drip all over the floor either.
2. It really dampens down the drive train. Sounds more like oil based lube.
3. Really easy to clean (as it doesn't harden fully, though this may be more of a con)
Cons:
1. I have a habit of wiping down the chain after every ride with isopropyl alcohol and some kitchen wipes, it's really easy to clean them up but it also seems like you ended up also stripping some of the lubrication off.
2. Sounded dry after 2x 100km rides. Definitely doesn't sound like it'll last for 500km. I may need to change how I maintain the chain over time, maybe less harsh wiping?
Squirt is infinitely harder to clean though, although it solidifies much more than Flower Power.
Overall I'm still quite happy with it, though I'd have to make adjustments to how I use the chain post rides.
The problem with it is that the "wax" never truly hardens. It becomes quite mushy even though it is dry after 24 hours.
Pros:
1. Really no penetration issues. It's really easy to apply it. Doesn't drip all over the floor either.
2. It really dampens down the drive train. Sounds more like oil based lube.
3. Really easy to clean (as it doesn't harden fully, though this may be more of a con)
Cons:
1. I have a habit of wiping down the chain after every ride with isopropyl alcohol and some kitchen wipes, it's really easy to clean them up but it also seems like you ended up also stripping some of the lubrication off.
2. Sounded dry after 2x 100km rides. Definitely doesn't sound like it'll last for 500km. I may need to change how I maintain the chain over time, maybe less harsh wiping?
Squirt is infinitely harder to clean though, although it solidifies much more than Flower Power.
Overall I'm still quite happy with it, though I'd have to make adjustments to how I use the chain post rides.
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I have been using Silca Super Secret Sept 21 to Sept 22 and Synergetic since then.
I was happy with the wax- it certainly appeared to extend chain life and keep the drivetrain clean. Very good UK weather resilience too.
However I found the wax flakes annoying when using on my Tacx Neo and the chain noise would escalate after >160km.
In synergetic I think I have found a really nice middle ground.
Starting with a clean chain, I put a large drop onto each roller, backpedal for 10-15 revs then shift up and down the cassette a couple of gears to allow link wiggle and penetration.
I don't wipe at this point, I leave it at least overnight. I then wipe before the next ride (excess always seems to be minimal). This method has given me a super smooth and quiet chain in all weathers, a clean trainer mat and seemingly excellent chain wear properties again.
I tend to wipe the chain after each ride and muck build up is very minimal- almost like a traditional dry lube.
I just wish it was cheaper!
I was happy with the wax- it certainly appeared to extend chain life and keep the drivetrain clean. Very good UK weather resilience too.
However I found the wax flakes annoying when using on my Tacx Neo and the chain noise would escalate after >160km.
In synergetic I think I have found a really nice middle ground.
Starting with a clean chain, I put a large drop onto each roller, backpedal for 10-15 revs then shift up and down the cassette a couple of gears to allow link wiggle and penetration.
I don't wipe at this point, I leave it at least overnight. I then wipe before the next ride (excess always seems to be minimal). This method has given me a super smooth and quiet chain in all weathers, a clean trainer mat and seemingly excellent chain wear properties again.
I tend to wipe the chain after each ride and muck build up is very minimal- almost like a traditional dry lube.
I just wish it was cheaper!
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How much do you see gunk buildup on cassette and how do you clean cassette using Synergetic? Wipe down of cassette? Cog brush? Solvent or other cleaner? Nothing?
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It's very minimal, I use a micro fibre cloth. When I wipe the chain down I bunch up the cloth and backpedal the cassette against it if I have to. I also slide the cloth in between the cassette gears every now and again.
When I wash the bike I use a light spray of Morgan blue degreaser over the cassette, a light water rinse and job done.
When I wash the bike I use a light spray of Morgan blue degreaser over the cassette, a light water rinse and job done.
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No rain down here and only road. Thanks for the info. How do you handle trainer time in this mix? I'm typically on trainerroad 4 hours during the week and then a 160km group ride on Saturdays.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Jan 09, 2023 1:59 am
~400km in dry conditions. You can top off with Silca Super Secret for an additional 300km or so. CS UFO Drip maybe ever slightly less.
Hello - can you guys let me know (and if there's a video, all the better) best practices for cleaning the chain post wet/damp/muddy ride when using Silca SS / UFO drip? I understand that with melt wax one has to remove the chain (with potential excessive wear to quick-links), but I'm not too sure what's the procedure for wax-based drip lubes.
I live in an area where the chain would get dirty relatively often and I am trying to gauge whether to go for melt wax or drips, depending on which would be easier to live with and/or less costly.
I live in an area where the chain would get dirty relatively often and I am trying to gauge whether to go for melt wax or drips, depending on which would be easier to live with and/or less costly.
Cleaning is the best thing about wax and i can't tell a difference between hot or drip wax. As the chain doesn't become filthy anyway, all you really need for basic maintence is some soapy water and a brush. Then rinse it off, run through a towel, relube, done.
There is no need for special treatment with hot water or specific chain cleaner every time the bike gets dirty in my opinion.
Drip wax like UFO, Silca or the Flower Power stuff has become so good, that i'm not sure i will ever open my last bag of MSW and hot wax again.
There is no need for special treatment with hot water or specific chain cleaner every time the bike gets dirty in my opinion.
Drip wax like UFO, Silca or the Flower Power stuff has become so good, that i'm not sure i will ever open my last bag of MSW and hot wax again.
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