Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

[eucalyptus]

Please tell me you have done a build list for this in the gallery section?!?

Basso Diamante eps 12

Soon to come, after first ride and better photos
I am also trying to figure out how it can be 6 460 on paper with all components weighed down to each screw and 6 600 on the scale (tried both park tool and another orange thing from R2).


Thx Bondurant, thank you very much

[LanceLegstrong]

Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels. Didn't weigh it yet but probably around 8kg.

Velobuild 168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount

[TwiggyForest]

Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels. Didn't weigh it yet but probably around 8kg.

Velobuild 168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount

Nice looking bike. I'm interested in how to find the Kocevlo bars, looking up to maybe go to 1 piece bar stem

[LanceLegstrong]

Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels. Didn't weigh it yet but probably around 8kg.

Velobuild 168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount

Nice looking bike. I'm interested in how to find the Kocevlo bars, looking up to maybe go to 1 piece bar stem

I originally bought The One Pro bar/stem but wasn't happy with the length I chose so I returned those and saw these which appear to be the exact same bars with a different steerer clamp design. And for half the price ($200 vs $95). Never actually rode The On Pro so couldn't tell you how they felt but these are plenty stiff so far. The Kocevlo are a little heavier (392g in 40/120) by around 30g but that wasn't an issue for me for this build. I'm no track sprinter but I can put out around 1600W in a dead sprint so stiffness is the main thing I look for in a bar, and these felt really good so far. Maybe not as stiff as something like the Aerofly but no wet noodle by any means (I tried the Roval Alpinist bar and returned it after 2 rides becuase it was way too flexy). So overall, it's still early in my use of them but happy with the purchase.

[bobones]

1 year later and we have a bike

A future gallery with more pictures and details to come.
Lots and lots of custom work on this one

Absolutely beautiful Where did you get the paint job?

[eucalyptus]

1 year later and we have a bike

A future gallery with more pictures and details to come.
Lots and lots of custom work on this one

Absolutely beautiful Where did you get the paint job?

Thank you I had it painted by a bike painter in Sweden, Stockholm for around $400 + shipping. He did a great job except there are some flaws unfortunately. The purple is very very dark if not direct sunlight. The clear coat is mediocre at best, gonna send it to a professional clear coat refresh/repair next year. The guy sucked communicating but it looks good on picture

[inertianinja]

Would anyone in the NYC area like a FM-066 Frameset to examine?

I have a 2018 FM-066 that was in a crash. No visible damage to the frameset, but I have decided to retire it. Since it crashed I won't be selling it, but if anyone wants to take it to examine, maybe do one of those cut up videos, or even decide they want to ride - let me know.

[lucianovil]

Would anyone in the NYC area like a FM-066 Frameset to examine?

I have a 2018 FM-066 that was in a crash. No visible damage to the frameset, but I have decided to retire it. Since it crashed I won't be selling it, but if anyone wants to take it to examine, maybe do one of those cut up videos, or even decide they want to ride - let me know.

Hey, would you mind send it to another country if i pay for the delivery?

I'm in a process of bulding a crit bike and have a friend that repairs Carbon frames. 54 or 56 fm066 would fit perfect.

Here in Brazil repairs are inexpensive but the frame not.

Thanks!

[Diehard]

Another Chinese bike. This time is from me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNzD-vdxbBs

[bikergrove]

Has anyone experimented with removing the black matte finish from one of these open mold Chinese frames and subsequently tried painting it? I own an original FM66 frame acquired from Carbon-Zone or Carbon-Cycle on eBay (possibly OEM Hongfu) in 2016, which I've ridden extensively but has been stored for years. Curious about the feasibility, I'm contemplating sanding and repainting it. The original finish appears to be a matte black that resembles primer. Could I potentially spray over it with minimal preparation, or is a more involved process necessary? While I anticipate the likely answer is no, I'm interested in hearing from fellow WW members who may have firsthand experience.

I spent about 30 minutes sanding last night with 400 grit wet/dry which truth be told, hardly did anything.

[inertianinja]

Has anyone experimented with removing the black matte finish from one of these open mold Chinese frames and subsequently tried painting it? I own an original FM66 frame acquired from Carbon-Zone or Carbon-Cycle on eBay (possibly OEM Hongfu) in 2016, which I've ridden extensively but has been stored for years. Curious about the feasibility, I'm contemplating sanding and repainting it. The original finish appears to be a matte black that resembles primer. Could I potentially spray over it with minimal preparation, or is a more involved process necessary? While I anticipate the likely answer is no, I'm interested in hearing from fellow WW members who may have firsthand experience.

I spent about 30 minutes sanding last night with 400 grit wet/dry which truth be told, hardly did anything.

I can't comment on the prep but i like the idea. My really only problem with my FM-066 was that the matte top tube got shiny after a few seasons, just from my legs occasionally brushing it.

[s3si1u]

Has anyone experimented with removing the black matte finish from one of these open mold Chinese frames and subsequently tried painting it? I own an original FM66 frame acquired from Carbon-Zone or Carbon-Cycle on eBay (possibly OEM Hongfu) in 2016, which I've ridden extensively but has been stored for years. Curious about the feasibility, I'm contemplating sanding and repainting it. The original finish appears to be a matte black that resembles primer. Could I potentially spray over it with minimal preparation, or is a more involved process necessary? While I anticipate the likely answer is no, I'm interested in hearing from fellow WW members who may have firsthand experience.

I spent about 30 minutes sanding last night with 400 grit wet/dry which truth be told, hardly did anything.

I've painted several open molds. The standard matte black finish is essentially a "ready to paint" situation. Scuffing it very well with 400 grit or so will suffice for a new spray job, I found adding some good primer before spraying color really helps with adhesion.
I've also gone the full way and removed the matte black completely before primerimg and painting and I find you don't really need to go through all that trouble unless you really want to save an extra 7-10 grams or so.

[anxiety]

Hello Everyone,
trying to build up my Velobuild 177, have absolutely no previous experience, so I have been planning on relying on YouTube videos and asking in forums.
just starting but the space between the Frame and the Fork seems a bit a lot. is it normal to be like that or am i putting in an extra ring which is not supposed to be there? Thanks all in advance.

[BikeTyson]

Hello Everyone,
trying to build up my Velobuild 177, have absolutely no previous experience, so I have been planning on relying on YouTube videos and asking in forums.
just starting but the space between the Frame and the Fork seems a bit a lot. is it normal to be like that or am i putting in an extra ring which is not supposed to be there? Thanks all in advance.

That fork already has a crown race built in it looks like. No need for that little balck piece. Bearing goes directly onto the fork.

[BikeTyson]

Has anyone experimented with removing the black matte finish from one of these open mold Chinese frames and subsequently tried painting it? I own an original FM66 frame acquired from Carbon-Zone or Carbon-Cycle on eBay (possibly OEM Hongfu) in 2016, which I've ridden extensively but has been stored for years. Curious about the feasibility, I'm contemplating sanding and repainting it. The original finish appears to be a matte black that resembles primer. Could I potentially spray over it with minimal preparation, or is a more involved process necessary? While I anticipate the likely answer is no, I'm interested in hearing from fellow WW members who may have firsthand experience.

I spent about 30 minutes sanding last night with 400 grit wet/dry which truth be told, hardly did anything.

I've painted several open molds. The standard matte black finish is essentially a "ready to paint" situation. Scuffing it very well with 400 grit or so will suffice for a new spray job, I found adding some good primer before spraying color really helps with adhesion.
I've also gone the full way and removed the matte black completely before primerimg and painting and I find you don't really need to go through all that trouble unless you really want to save an extra 7-10 grams or so.

Not totally related to this thread, but to your comment. I have a Ready to Paint Tarmac and wondering how "ready to paint" it actually is. Just sand the top coat and then primer? I can see the carbon layup so I think it's just a thin matte clearcoat. So maybe like 600 grit wet sanding and good to go for primer, then color? I also have a Tarmac SL7 pro frameset that is similar but has painted logos. Again, I can see the carbon layup so I'm thinking about sanding the logos off and then primer. Good idea?