Talk to me about multitools – what do you carry?

[gloscherrybomb]

Just bought a Daysaver Essential 8 and it’s great. Super light. I have the tire lever and chain breaker attachment also. I carry that, 1 TPU tube, CO2 + head, and a dynaplug carbon race plug tool. Just ordered a mini electronic pump so the CO2 might leave.

https://daysaver.fun/products/essential ... ng5-bundle

Gravel bike I carry the Cannondale multi tool. I think it’s the 18 in 1 with a dynaplug.

https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/e ... multi-tool

MTB I have the One Up pump system. Has everything but on the heavier side.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/product ... ump-bundle

Identical setup here. I've lost the small torx part from my daysaver though and they seem impossible to replace in the UK!

They sell the bits.

https://daysaver.fun/products/replaceme ... essential8

Not at a reasonable price to the UK though. I searched again today and managed to find a spare, although on backorder.

[nullptr]

I've been using the PRO Minitool Performance 17 for some years and it's been very reliable. Not quite as light as some of the new options though.

[usr]

Speaking of daysaver issues, once i had one of the mini bits stick to the magnet in the L part instead of to the magnet in it's carrier bit. And i needed the L part clear to hold the bit required to get my bike running again, in a winter night. That was a weird experience. Eventually i managed to get the mini bit out by hammering the L on the pavement, carefully aiming at a crack to allow the mini bit continued travel. (original daysaver, with the colorful high end bits)

[OtterSpace]

Speaking of daysaver issues, once i had one of the mini bits stick to the magnet in the L part instead of to the magnet in it's carrier bit.

(original daysaver, with the colorful high end bits)

I've only had the new one. To add more info this is an inherent issue with the design on the second version as well which I can share more specifics from.

Basically there are two main 5mm bits that go into the tool. Each of these bits seats a second micro bit on one of its sides (for 2nd version a T25/4mm micro bit and a 2mm/2.5mm micro bit which has an OD of 3mm).

The T25/4mm micro bit cannot get stuck in the tool. However, from the recessed magnet design if the removable 2mm/2.5mm micro bit gets inserted into the tool the recessed magnet might keep the micro bit magnetically engaged while the main bit releases leaving the micro bit stuck in the tool until physically removed like you did or with pliers.

These micro bits are easy to lose in different ways. The 2mm/2.5mm in the tool and the T25/4mm gets removed by most to use the 6mm so it is easy to lose on the ground when changing a flat also its dark color doesn't help searching for it on a road either if you are lucky enough to notice it missing when packing up.

Still what I use but it has tons of small things to be cognisant of that can leave you stranded.

I might move to a set of L-key Ti 6mm and steel T25 (PB Swiss), 4mm, 3mm, and whatever smaller sizes I think I need soon to avoid these issues with Daysaver given that 5mm isnt that useful for my disc build. On my disc build the only 5mm bolts are the shifter clamps and chainring bolts none of which I anticipate needing to field adjust personally (My fd bolt was changed to a pulley cage bolt with a 3mm head for aesthetic reasons). However, for my rim bikes 5mm is top cap and Ti through axles which I need to be able to adjust or remove and currently I share a tool kit between bikes.

Decisions decisions

[ND4SPD]

I have older Lezyne RAP-21 CO2, newer version would be RAP II 25 CO2:

https://ride.lezyne.com/products/rap-ii ... 7643258101

[Robius]

https://www.topeak.com/us/en/product/1066-HEXUS-X

[froze]

Multitool wise I carry the now no longer made Park Tool MTB3, I've had that one and the older version for many years and they work great. The MTB3 is the only tool I carry even when touring, I simply haven't had the need for more tools.

Of course, as others have expounded on past the original question, I carry 2 Lezyne Power levers XL, but on the touring bike I add a Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack.

I just found out a couple of weeks ago there is a tire tool on the market called the Clever Standard Clever Lever, this thing has three tools in one, it's a tire lever, but when combined they turn into a chain quick link pliers, and you can remove and replace valve cores, sounds pretty cool to me, but maybe someone here has that tool and doesn't like it, if so share why you like or dislike it.

Everything else I have is typical minimal stuff needed to fix a flat, including patches, tube, well, you get the picture.

[Juanmoretime]

This:https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-I-Beam ... hdGY&psc=1

[208]

I carry this, it's pretty cool.

https://products.wera.de/en/screwdriver ... et_15.html

[DHG01]

I carry this, it's pretty cool.

https://products.wera.de/en/screwdriver ... et_15.html

This one looks quite interesting; price is quite reasonable also.

[Nickldn]

I have been using the Giant Shed 13 for years. Light, practical and ticks most day to day requirement boxes.

It's good not because it has every single conceivable tool on it, but because the 13 tools common and useful tools it has are all actually reasonably accessible and practical to use.

So although I'm missing a chain tool and a spoke tool, they are not something I'd need for an average 50 - 60 mile local ride.

https://www.link-cycling.com/tools-main ... UKEALw_wcB

[wltz]

Really curious when was the last time anyone snapped a chain or a quick link on a ride. I think modern day multi-tools should rather have a 4Nm pre-set torque wrench. The Wera tool looks awesome and is really light for what it is!

[froze]

Really curious when was the last time anyone snapped a chain or a quick link on a ride. I think modern day multi-tools should rather have a 4Nm pre-set torque wrench. The Wera tool looks awesome and is really light for what it is!

I've been riding bikes pretty much constantly since I was 7, and never have I ever broke a chain, and that includes 10 years of road racing in S Calif, and about 7 or 8 years riding a road bike off road on trails in mountains...yeah, sounds weird to you young people, but this was before mountain bikes came along, so we used what we had.

With my Park MTB2 and 3 multitool, it has a chain tool, so if that should happen, I can at least take a broken link or two out and reattach the chain minus those links, I don't carry spare links, so the bike will still ride just fine without 2 links, just won't be able to shift into my tallest or shortest gear.

Since I don't have a carbon bike, or carbon bits, I have no real need to carry a torque wrench, but I do own one which I would use at home if some part has a torque value, and there are a few not carbon parts that do, but they're highly unlikely to fail on the road, and if by some impossible odds one did, I could guess close enough. I bought the Lezyne Torque Drive, which I compared it to the Silca version, and the Lezyne was superior and cost half as much.

[OtterSpace]

I carry this, it's pretty cool.

https://products.wera.de/en/screwdriver ... et_15.html

Unfortunately the wera can easily fail at the plastic where the bit attaches if too much torque is applied which basically cams out the slot in the lever causing the bit to uselessly spin in the lever. The value they claim is 10Nm but I personally had it fail while removing a through axle previously torqued to 10Nm at home with a torque wrench. Not good had to call for help and end my ride.

Would have been terrible if it happened well outside of cell service range. I ran it happily for around 6 months before the failure and used it maybe 5 times at most.

Therefore I wouldn't recommend this tool.

A very light bit driver, wrench, or a redeisgn of the lever to give it a metal core, would be a good way to fix this tool.

Personally I wouldn't trust it over 5Nm which puts it outside the range of use with through axles which is the most important thing to be able to field remove.

[208]

I carry this, it's pretty cool.

https://products.wera.de/en/screwdriver ... et_15.html

Unfortunately the wera can easily fail at the plastic where the bit attaches if over torqued by basically camming out the slot in the lever. The value they claim is 20Nm but I personally had it fail while removing a through axle previously torqued to 10Nm at home with a torque wrench. Not good had to call for help and end my ride.

Would have been terrible if it happened well outside of cell service range.

Therefore I wouldn't recommend this tool.

A very light bit driver or wrench would be a good way to fix this tool.

edit: Looks like they claim 10Nm now. Personally I wouldn't trust it over 5Nm which puts it outside the range of use with through axles which is the most important thing to be able to field remove.

Yeah man, I definitely wouldn't trust anything plastic to undo a thru axle ever. I carry a 6mm wera hex key I cut to size to fit my saddle baggy thing for that!

I used to carry one of those 3-in-1 canyon multitool things, but the crapola bits all rusted. I'm too poor for shit tools to ruin my stuff, so they went into the trash.