These are up on CamelBak's site now.
https://www.camelbak.com/shop/water-bot ... color=Moss
CamelBak Podium titanium & stainless steel bottles
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joejack951
- Posts: 1162
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But if it's your second, third, or fourth bottle, chances are you are well into your ride before consuming it.fatpinarellorider wrote: ↑Wed Sep 27, 2023 6:45 amI don't think it's a "gamechanger" at all (for summer). You're not likely to have water left in a bottle after one hour in really hot weather, let alone after 3.5 to 6 hours. The reviewer even states that (albeit half way into the review).
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justkeepedaling
- Posts: 1712
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 6:14 am
Why do you need your liquid to be cool for 7 1/2 hours or more?
Why do you want a stainless-steel bottle that weighs twice as much as the plastic Camelback Podium Ice?
Does plastic impart a plastic taste? Not in one day they won't, now if you leave the water in the bottle for 3 or more days it will pick up a bit of an odd taste, but not nearly as bad as bottles did 10 and more years ago, those would give off the odd taste in about 3 hours.
The Podium Ice Chill is currently the winning plastic bottle for keeping water the coldest, after 3 hours you can expect about a 10-degree climb in temp. If you want a plastic bottle to stay colder longer simply put it in the freezer overnight with your liquid already inside leaving about an inch gap from the top of the bottle, then you can top it off when you pull it out of the freezer. An insulated bottle that sat in the freezer will remain icy for about 4 hours and stay cold for another hour after that if you're riding in 90-degree weather.
If you need to keep the water a tad cooler longer than get a white bottle, those other fancy colors will get warmer quicker the darker the colors get.
I was using all stainless-steel insulated bottles for my touring bike, but after riding with those for a while I decided to cut the weight and go with plastic, which allowed me to carry more water. Two of my Nalgene bottles hold 48 ounces of water (but filled to the top they'll hold 53), but they're not insulated, I don't drink from those while riding, but I need water for cooking so I use that water. My other bottles are Polar bottles that hold 24 ounces each, I thought about switching to the Podium Ice Chill but they hold 21 ounces, so I opted to carry 3 more ounces per bottle over keeping the water colder longer. I have another uninsulated bottle that only holds 16 ounces but it sets under the downtube and anything larger and my front fender will hit it.
If it's really hot out I will wrap my frozen bottle tightly with tinfoil. There is a cheap trick you can do to really help out plastic bottles to stay cold. Wrap your bottle tightly with aluminum foil to reflect the cold inward, then add two wraps of plastic like Saran wrap tightly around the now tinfoil-covered bottle to slow heat transfer; then, add another layer of tightly wrapped foil to deflect incoming heat. Put a strong tape on the edge of the foil to keep it from coming undone. The combined weight of the foil and plastic wrap will still be significantly less than a steel-insulated bottle.
Why do you want a stainless-steel bottle that weighs twice as much as the plastic Camelback Podium Ice?
Does plastic impart a plastic taste? Not in one day they won't, now if you leave the water in the bottle for 3 or more days it will pick up a bit of an odd taste, but not nearly as bad as bottles did 10 and more years ago, those would give off the odd taste in about 3 hours.
The Podium Ice Chill is currently the winning plastic bottle for keeping water the coldest, after 3 hours you can expect about a 10-degree climb in temp. If you want a plastic bottle to stay colder longer simply put it in the freezer overnight with your liquid already inside leaving about an inch gap from the top of the bottle, then you can top it off when you pull it out of the freezer. An insulated bottle that sat in the freezer will remain icy for about 4 hours and stay cold for another hour after that if you're riding in 90-degree weather.
If you need to keep the water a tad cooler longer than get a white bottle, those other fancy colors will get warmer quicker the darker the colors get.
I was using all stainless-steel insulated bottles for my touring bike, but after riding with those for a while I decided to cut the weight and go with plastic, which allowed me to carry more water. Two of my Nalgene bottles hold 48 ounces of water (but filled to the top they'll hold 53), but they're not insulated, I don't drink from those while riding, but I need water for cooking so I use that water. My other bottles are Polar bottles that hold 24 ounces each, I thought about switching to the Podium Ice Chill but they hold 21 ounces, so I opted to carry 3 more ounces per bottle over keeping the water colder longer. I have another uninsulated bottle that only holds 16 ounces but it sets under the downtube and anything larger and my front fender will hit it.
If it's really hot out I will wrap my frozen bottle tightly with tinfoil. There is a cheap trick you can do to really help out plastic bottles to stay cold. Wrap your bottle tightly with aluminum foil to reflect the cold inward, then add two wraps of plastic like Saran wrap tightly around the now tinfoil-covered bottle to slow heat transfer; then, add another layer of tightly wrapped foil to deflect incoming heat. Put a strong tape on the edge of the foil to keep it from coming undone. The combined weight of the foil and plastic wrap will still be significantly less than a steel-insulated bottle.
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TobinHatesYou
- Posts: 12585
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
Wrapping a bottle with foil and cling wrap seems objectively more hassle than simply having a metal vacuum insulated bottle.
Freezing mixed liquids does not always work as freezing/thawing can cause components to separate. If you’ve ever frozen a Coke, you’d know the syrup melts first, for example. Also there have definitely been times where I wanted to drink out of a still frozen bottle. I could freeze 2/3 of it and add the correct ratios of carb mix + water, but again that’s way more effort. A frozen bottle is also much more likely to eject on a bumpy road because water ice has zero damping effect.
Additionally it’s nice having a cool drink in your car after a 4-5 hour long race without having to use a cooler filled with ice or other non-insulated frozen bottles.
Freezing mixed liquids does not always work as freezing/thawing can cause components to separate. If you’ve ever frozen a Coke, you’d know the syrup melts first, for example. Also there have definitely been times where I wanted to drink out of a still frozen bottle. I could freeze 2/3 of it and add the correct ratios of carb mix + water, but again that’s way more effort. A frozen bottle is also much more likely to eject on a bumpy road because water ice has zero damping effect.
Additionally it’s nice having a cool drink in your car after a 4-5 hour long race without having to use a cooler filled with ice or other non-insulated frozen bottles.
Sure wrapping a bottle like that is a hassle but it's lighter in weight, and this is a weight weenies forum!
When I ride my bike, I never use Coke frozen or otherwise, something about the fiz building up and then gushing out all over the bike. And if the mix separates, there is a device attached to my arm called a hand, I take that hand, grasp the bottle in it and shake the bottle, seems to work pretty well.
I didn't mean that you freeze all your bottles, geez! Look, you freeze one bottle, the other you can fill all the way or partially with ice, by the time you finish that bottle the frozen one is thawed out pretty good. It's about figuring out the timing vs the weather you'll be riding in, a lot of the times I don't freeze the bottle because it's only 70 or so degrees out, freezing a bottle could take half the day to thaw, but I need to drink from it sooner, so depending on the weather I might have one bottle with maybe a quarter full of ice, and the second one maybe 3/4 ice, it varies depending on weather. You have to be a thinking person to figure this stuff out.
I have never had a frozen bottle ejected from my cages in over 25 years I've been using plastic insulated bottles. Maybe if I used real cheap cages, that could be a problem? but I have used plastic, aluminum, and stainless steel cages and never had the issue. That could be a problem with especially AL cages that after repeated removing and installing bottles the cage will bend open a bit, and I had to bend them back to keep a firm grip on the bottles, stainless will do the same thing but not near as often. I also take a bottle with me to a bike shop to make sure that any cage I buy fits the bottle tight enough because Polar bottles are not only heavier but like you said freezing them hard could eject the bottle if the cage fits loosely, but that's somewhat true whether the bottle was frozen or not. Put Polar had indentations in the bottle that the cage catches on to further prevent ejection, so combine that with a tighter fit and that bottle isn't going anywhere.
I get the car thing, if that's the case just get a cheap Stanley Legendary green thermos bottle and keep it in your car, it would take a lot longer than 12 hours of intense heat inside a car for that liquid to go from icy cold to just cold with those bottles, Stanley works very well, a WHOLE lot better than those bottles mentioned for this post.
When I ride my bike, I never use Coke frozen or otherwise, something about the fiz building up and then gushing out all over the bike. And if the mix separates, there is a device attached to my arm called a hand, I take that hand, grasp the bottle in it and shake the bottle, seems to work pretty well.
I didn't mean that you freeze all your bottles, geez! Look, you freeze one bottle, the other you can fill all the way or partially with ice, by the time you finish that bottle the frozen one is thawed out pretty good. It's about figuring out the timing vs the weather you'll be riding in, a lot of the times I don't freeze the bottle because it's only 70 or so degrees out, freezing a bottle could take half the day to thaw, but I need to drink from it sooner, so depending on the weather I might have one bottle with maybe a quarter full of ice, and the second one maybe 3/4 ice, it varies depending on weather. You have to be a thinking person to figure this stuff out.
I have never had a frozen bottle ejected from my cages in over 25 years I've been using plastic insulated bottles. Maybe if I used real cheap cages, that could be a problem? but I have used plastic, aluminum, and stainless steel cages and never had the issue. That could be a problem with especially AL cages that after repeated removing and installing bottles the cage will bend open a bit, and I had to bend them back to keep a firm grip on the bottles, stainless will do the same thing but not near as often. I also take a bottle with me to a bike shop to make sure that any cage I buy fits the bottle tight enough because Polar bottles are not only heavier but like you said freezing them hard could eject the bottle if the cage fits loosely, but that's somewhat true whether the bottle was frozen or not. Put Polar had indentations in the bottle that the cage catches on to further prevent ejection, so combine that with a tighter fit and that bottle isn't going anywhere.
I get the car thing, if that's the case just get a cheap Stanley Legendary green thermos bottle and keep it in your car, it would take a lot longer than 12 hours of intense heat inside a car for that liquid to go from icy cold to just cold with those bottles, Stanley works very well, a WHOLE lot better than those bottles mentioned for this post.
For me it is just about keeping drinks warm for winter rides.
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TobinHatesYou
- Posts: 12585
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
froze wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 4:41 pmSure wrapping a bottle like that is a hassle but it's lighter in weight, and this is a weight weenies forum!
When I ride my bike, I never use Coke frozen or otherwise, something about the fiz building up and then gushing out all over the bike. And if the mix separates, there is a device attached to my arm called a hand, I take that hand, grasp the bottle in it and shake the bottle, seems to work pretty well.
I didn't mean that you freeze all your bottles, geez! Look, you freeze one bottle, the other you can fill all the way or partially with ice, by the time you finish that bottle the frozen one is thawed out pretty good. It's about figuring out the timing vs the weather you'll be riding in, a lot of the times I don't freeze the bottle because it's only 70 or so degrees out, freezing a bottle could take half the day to thaw, but I need to drink from it sooner, so depending on the weather I might have one bottle with maybe a quarter full of ice, and the second one maybe 3/4 ice, it varies depending on weather. You have to be a thinking person to figure this stuff out.
I have never had a frozen bottle ejected from my cages in over 25 years I've been using plastic insulated bottles. Maybe if I used real cheap cages, that could be a problem? but I have used plastic, aluminum, and stainless steel cages and never had the issue. That could be a problem with especially AL cages that after repeated removing and installing bottles the cage will bend open a bit, and I had to bend them back to keep a firm grip on the bottles, stainless will do the same thing but not near as often. I also take a bottle with me to a bike shop to make sure that any cage I buy fits the bottle tight enough because Polar bottles are not only heavier but like you said freezing them hard could eject the bottle if the cage fits loosely, but that's somewhat true whether the bottle was frozen or not. Put Polar had indentations in the bottle that the cage catches on to further prevent ejection, so combine that with a tighter fit and that bottle isn't going anywhere.
I get the car thing, if that's the case just get a cheap Stanley Legendary green thermos bottle and keep it in your car, it would take a lot longer than 12 hours of intense heat inside a car for that liquid to go from icy cold to just cold with those bottles, Stanley works very well, a WHOLE lot better than those bottles mentioned for this post.
The carbs separate and melt first, like the Coke example. You can't dilute it unless the water ice melts. This will happen with your frozen bottle, I'm sure you've noticed how much sweeter a frozen bottle is than a normal one...and then it gets progressively more dilute as time passes.
A frozen bottle is guaranteed to eject in a race here. I've used Mandibles, Dave-Os and Bontrager Pro cages most recently. It's the lack of liquid damping and also condensation functioning as a friction modifier. A frozen bottle is also terrible for hand-ups, but so would a metal bottle be.
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robinbatman
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2024 12:10 pm
i'll try the stainless steel ( not yet decided for silicon coated ones or naked ones) and ti ones soon
I've got arundel mandible stainless steel cages, arundel carbon cages, and king cages
will try them all configurations
heard the metal on metal ( so naked stainless steel or ti) with the ti or stainless steel cages make some nasty noise in and out and even just riding bc friction
I've got arundel mandible stainless steel cages, arundel carbon cages, and king cages
will try them all configurations
heard the metal on metal ( so naked stainless steel or ti) with the ti or stainless steel cages make some nasty noise in and out and even just riding bc friction
Just check the stainless bottle to see where it makes metal-to-metal contact with the bottle, then wrap that area with Gorilla black tape, no more rattling.robinbatman wrote: ↑Sat Mar 30, 2024 2:26 pmi'll try the stainless steel ( not yet decided for silicon coated ones or naked ones) and ti ones soon
I've got arundel mandible stainless steel cages, arundel carbon cages, and king cages
will try them all configurations
heard the metal on metal ( so naked stainless steel or ti) with the ti or stainless steel cages make some nasty noise in and out and even just riding bc friction
