Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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MrB123
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2022 5:15 pm
by MrB123 on Sun Aug 21, 2022 6:05 pm
alanyu wrote: ↑Sun Aug 21, 2022 3:57 pm
MrB123 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 30, 2022 12:20 pm
Have got some Light Bicycle AR rims on the way, rim brake 46mm front and 56mm rear. Hubs will be Tune Mig/Mag.
Some questions for the wheel building experts...
Nipples - I'm after coloured Sapim alloy ones. Is it worth going for the double square design? Looks to me like they have a few advantages, presumably for a small weight penalty.
Spokes - go for CX-Rays or Pillar Wing 20s? Read a few things suggesting the Pillars are a bit stiffer. Weight is the same I think.
Lacing pattern - LB suggesting 2 cross drive side and radial NDS on the rear. Would that be a sensible choice or would 2 cross on both sides be preferable?
Thanks in advance!
Nipple: double square is non-sense if you go TL with no bed hole.
Spoke: Yes, Wing 20 is a bit stiffer laterally, but not sure if anyone can feel the difference.
Lacing: I would go 2 cross on both sides. 2-cross NDS contributes more to the power transfer than radial NDS. Another choice would be a 28 hole Mag, but skipping half on NDS to lace an effective 2:1 21-hole, if you are not heavy/sprinter.
Thanks Alan.
I'm getting the brass double square nipples but the rims will have spoke holes as wanted to make life easier for my LBS.
Going for two cross both sides on the rear but am getting CX Sprints for the drive side.
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tfayet
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:25 pm
by tfayet on Tue Sep 06, 2022 10:01 am
Hello
I'm looking for the lighter carbon tubular rim brake for road bike
Caracterostics I need:
- road bike
- rim brake
- Width: 25mm
- Depth: 38 to 40mm
- internal nipple
- asymmetric for rear / standard for front
Do you know who could produce the lighter rim?
Thanks
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MayhemSWE
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:44 pm
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
by MayhemSWE on Sat Sep 17, 2022 12:02 am
What would you consider acceptable radial trueness for a carbon wheel build?
I have built a handful of wheelsets (like 5 maybe) and am currently building up a pair of wheels on FarSports Gravel 700C rims with Hope RS4 straightpull hubs and DT Swiss Aerolite/Aero Comp (rear driveside) spokes. On my rear wheel lateral trueness is pretty much perfect, and spoke tension (at least on the driveside) as equalized as a Park TM-1 will allow, but radially there is a 1 mm low area that covers maybe 20% of the circumference and then tapers out to about 40%.
What is my best course of action here: Accept the wheel as-is with the spoke tension as equal as possible, or attempt to move the entire rim over (relative to the hub) by loosening all spokes on the side of the low spot and tightening the opposite side?
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LouisN
- Posts: 3526
- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
- Location: Canada
by LouisN on Mon Sep 19, 2022 2:59 pm
Farsports rims aren't the most perfect rims when comes to finish. But 1 mm seems high IMO.
There a flaws from the rim finish itself, those may be a fraction of a millimeter. When my wheels are round and true but mostly with even tension and it comes up to rim finish I leave it like that.
Sounds like you tensioned "ovally".
I would loosen the area and start again spoke by spoke, to get that perfect circle.
I personnally don't believe in "opposite side". I go where spoke tension will lead me. Not automatically working on opposite side, but rather on lower tension spoke nearby the area which needs tensioning. FWIW I have about 60-80 wheel sets built : road, CX, MTB, fatbike, etc...
Louis
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kroem
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2019 4:37 pm
by kroem on Tue Sep 20, 2022 6:54 am
trailgumby wrote: ↑Sun Aug 21, 2022 2:30 pm
Looking for help on good quality cost-effective carbon rims. As I run 25c tyres, something around 28 wide would be preferable.
I was looking to buy some LB Falcon Pro rims, AR45 front / AR55 rear but this section of Hambini's aero wheel buyer's guide made some points I kind of already knew on rim profile. That being, the more teardrop-like shape is more aero, and more stable. The more D-shaped cross-sections absorb more watts.
Farsports doesn't seem to show cross-sections, nor do they seem to sell rims separately. Who else is good besides Light Bicycle and Nextie that I should look at?
contact Farsports, they do sell only rims, just not "openly" (not all rims...)
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DeLuz
- Posts: 405
- Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 2:30 am
by DeLuz on Wed Sep 21, 2022 4:51 pm
I am looking to build some carbon wheels and interested in using Pillar Wing 20 and Wing 22 spokes.
Since the shape of the spoke is different than typical aero spoke I am not sure if tension can be measured using standard tables.
The shape is more diamond than oval. My understanding is that spoke deflection measured by a temsiometer is proportional to cross section area of the spoke.
I have been using a Park TM-1 for a long time and my results have been good, but looking at upgrading to the Wheel Fanatyk tensiometer.
Park told me to use their wheel tension app but it assumes the spoke is a blade shape and these are not that shape so it seems it would be off.
Another and probably best option is to build myself a spoke tension calibration jig, but did not want to have to do that if possible.
Thanks for any advise.
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liam7020
- Posts: 1275
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:04 am
by liam7020 on Sat Sep 24, 2022 10:53 am
I'm building a set of cheapo track wheels with large flange hubs and 88mm carbon rims. I'm going to use Sapim CX-Ray spokes (24/28, radial front and 2x on the rear) and figure I might be best to use some nipple washers. Sapim seem to have several types of washers - any recommendations which type would best suit my intended build? Many thanks.
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ry5n
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2022 8:22 pm
by ry5n on Tue Sep 27, 2022 4:04 am
I’m planning a set of road disc climbing wheels. The brief for myself is “very light, but not stupid light”. I’m no sprinter (55–58 kg, 185 FTP), but I don’t want to be riding noodly hoops.
I’ve picked out Light Bicycle AR35 rims (Flyweight layup) and Extralite SPD-3 hubs (24H/24H). I’d appreciate some advice on spokes and details:
- Internal vs external nipples: which to choose? (and why)
- Nipple recommendation in general
- Which lightweight spokes (or mix) should I be considering?
- Other than nipple hole size, is there anything I need to ask LB for, in terms of drilling (angle, etc)?
𐃏𐃏
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LouisN
- Posts: 3526
- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
- Location: Canada
by LouisN on Fri Sep 30, 2022 10:27 pm
liam7020 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 24, 2022 10:53 am
I'm building a set of cheapo track wheels with large flange hubs and 88mm carbon rims. I'm going to use Sapim CX-Ray spokes (24/28, radial front and 2x on the rear) and figure I might be best to use some nipple washers. Sapim seem to have several types of washers - any recommendations which type would best suit my intended build? Many thanks.
I personally don't think it's necessary to use nipple washers on rims to ride a smooth surface like for track racing. The tension used won't be higher than what he rim tolerance can take.
Note that you will have to use very short spokes. Availability might be a challenge. I had to order Sapim CX Sprint "blanks" and make them cut and thread shorter (220 mm !) for the rear wheel I'm building right now (DTSwiss 370 hub 24h and 88 mm x 23 mm tubular rim). I won't use washers. The only wheels I used washers on are mtb and fatbike wheels. It might be a good idea to use those concave/rounded brass washers on rims with straight drilled holes to "angle" the nipples better coming out of the rim and spread the stress over a more even surface.
Louis
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liam7020
- Posts: 1275
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:04 am
by liam7020 on Sat Oct 01, 2022 8:34 pm
Thanks for that info Louis. Yes the spokes are short, especially on the front wheel which I intend to build in a radial pattern - 205mm. I think wheel-parts in the Netherlands have the CX-Rays stocked in that length. Thanks again.
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tfayet
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:25 pm
by tfayet on Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:12 pm
tfayet wrote: ↑Tue Sep 06, 2022 10:01 am
Hello
I'm looking for the lighter carbon tubular rim brake for road bike
Caracteristics I need:
- road bike
- rim brake
- Width: 25mm
- Depth: 38 to 40mm
- internal nipple
- asymmetric for rear / standard for front
Do you know who could produce the lighter rim?
Thanks
Any help ?
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Zw0ng
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:45 pm
by Zw0ng on Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:30 am
I'm planning to build a deep carbon disc brake wheelset with either the Lightbicycles AR56 or Carbonbeam CT55T31 rim (already using Carbonbeam Rims on my MTB with no problems) and Bitex BX106 hubs.
I'm not sure about the spokes. My weight is usually between 85 and 88kg. Not a sprinter but like to descend fast with hard braking...
What's your recommendation? Cx Ray/ Cx Sprint? Pillar 1423? Pillar Wing?
Rims will be 24h.
Thanks!
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Aesch
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:09 pm
by Aesch on Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:53 am
Zw0ng wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:30 am
I'm planning to build a deep carbon disc brake wheelset with either the Lightbicycles AR56 or Carbonbeam CT55T31 rim (already using Carbonbeam Rims on my MTB with no problems) and Bitex BX106 hubs.
I'm not sure about the spokes. My weight is usually between 85 and 88kg. Not a sprinter but like to descend fast with hard braking...
What's your recommendation? Cx Ray/ Cx Sprint? Pillar 1423? Pillar Wing?
Rims will be 24h.
Thanks!
I'd recommend sprints all around with brass nipples (have not used wing spoked myself).
I see you say 24h, I'd also reconsider 28h front and rear. I've built a few wheelsets at 24h for myself and others @80kg or more and my personal taste is 28h front and rear rides better and brakes better too (nearly all your weight is on the front wheel in the situation you describe, to the point that some tyre manufacturers recommend same pressure for front and rear).
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Aesch
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:09 pm
by Aesch on Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:54 am
tfayet wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:12 pm
tfayet wrote: ↑Tue Sep 06, 2022 10:01 am
Hello
I'm looking for the lighter carbon tubular rim brake for road bike
Caracteristics I need:
- road bike
- rim brake
- Width: 25mm
- Depth: 38 to 40mm
- internal nipple
- asymmetric for rear / standard for front
Do you know who could produce the lighter rim?
Thanks
Any help ?
Maybe BTLOS?
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Zw0ng
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:45 pm
by Zw0ng on Sun Nov 06, 2022 11:12 am
Aesch wrote: ↑Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:53 am
I'd recommend sprints all around with brass nipples (have not used wing spoked myself).
I see you say 24h, I'd also reconsider 28h front and rear. I've built a few wheelsets at 24h for myself and others @80kg or more and my personal taste is 28h front and rear rides better and brakes better too (nearly all your weight is on the front wheel in the situation you describe, to the point that some tyre manufacturers recommend same pressure for front and rear).
Since Zipp and most of the other manufacturers use 24h or less, I thought I would go the same route. Maybe 28h with a combination of CX Ray/Sprint could work as well and would save a bit of weight.