Tubular Repair

[synchronicity]

Warning: controversial reply ahead.

I reckon if you can't afford new tubulars when you get a flat, you can't afford tubulars in general.
I know it sucks when you go out on day 1 with your brand new conti competitions and you punture, but such is life.
Repairing them wasn't an option for me, nor for my lbs (although I do repair regular clincher tubes)...

It just seems to me that if you're looking for cost-effectiveness, clinchers are the way to go. What could be simpler?

[fdegrove]

Hi,

Warning: controversial reply ahead.

I reckon if you can't afford new tubulars when you get a flat, you can't afford tubulars in general.
I know it sucks when you go out on day 1 with your brand new conti competitions and you punture, but such is life.
Repairing them wasn't an option for me, nor for my lbs (although I do repair regular clincher tubes)...

It just seems to me that if you're looking for cost-effectiveness, clinchers are the way to go. What could be simpler?

The day I bought my first Porsche 911 my dad said: "But how are you going to afford it"?
I replied: "Watch me and next year you may buy one yourself".
The car basically paid for itself, hardly required any maintenance at all and when put on the market I still made a profit even after using it for a couple of years.

Tubulars have never been cheaper and they keep on getting better every year.
If you can't change a tubular or are unable to repair one, either learn, pay or ride like a pedestrian. Simple as that.
Riding tubulars is not that different from riding a bike, it does take some effort at first but once you get the hang of it: joy, pride and ultimately; satisfaction. Isn't life grand when you have a choice?

Nothing personal, Synchro, just look at the bright side of life....

Ciao,

[fdegrove]

Hi,

Today i saw a fine solution to repair a punctured tufo tubular, Tufo Tyre Selant EXTREME (it's advised to use mainly of Tufo tyres).

I was surprised by how fast it worked. I think it will do the job for small (2, 3mm or so) punctures but i also believe a bigger puncture would trash completely the tubular, so for me, from now on, i'll use this method when i get a puncture.

You won't get a reliable repair with any of the solutions. I've tested a few of them and if you hit something a bit hard that wouldn't normally puncture the tyre but was a good hit - normally the sealant blows out. I've tested a few different types on punctured tyres that I then used for training and testing and it wasn't good enough to race on. Plus when that goop lets go it sprays all over you and your bike.

Acopolypse now. Doom...

Let's just say that there is no such thing as a miracle solution.
When the stuff made by the guys that promise you the eternal comfort zone doesn't work it's time to think realistically, dig up the hooked needle and get your hands dirty.

Repairing a tubular isn't easy, it does take alot of careful tensioning of the thread and even then there isn't really a garantee it will actually be as new.
It can be done to perfection on some tubs but it sure isn't a piece of cake. Patience, patience.

To give an order of grandeur: out of a stock of thirty, yes thirty, Veloflex Carbons I have messed up one, badly repaired two others (no longer round) and one of them has seen so much liquid latex inside it's really going to need a new inner tube.
That's a grand total of four out of thirty.
None of the thirty in stock are beyond repair, none are too worn to bother either.
Not a single one is older than six years and some of them have already seem the better part of 4.000 km anyway and still ready for another 2.000 km at least.

The only thing I know that keeps anything alive is proper care.
The main problem with repairing tubulars manually nowadays, other than time, is that most of the know-how, tools and proper products just aren't readily available anymore or at least not easily recognisable as such.

Ciao,




1

[hockinsk]

I couldn't afford new tubulars when I started as a kid, so I taught myself to repair hand-me-downs by members in our club that could!

Now I can afford to buy a load of new CX's or Veloflex's in the off season, but i'll still repair them 2 or 3 times by which time the tread has worn anyway just like a clincher. I'll then whip the latex tube out (use them with training clinchers) and chuck the rest in the bin. If I do the maths:

Vittoria Open CX: £29.54 + Latex Tube: £7.23

Vittoria Tubular CX = £39.65

Considering i'll get a free latex innertube back at the end of the tubulars life (use in my training wheels) it is actually £4.35 cheaper for me to ride tubular version of a tyre than the open clincher one : )

[Ivan]

I have a question.

I have veloflex carbon tubulars glued to corima aero. It seems that the valva hase gone out of true in the off season. I can't really explain it, it was perfectly straight when I used it last summer but now it is out of true. The rest of the glue seems to hold up just fine when trying to remove the tubular with my thumbs. What should I do ? Reglue or ride it as it is ? I havn't looked at the wheels for months, somethng with biulding a new house and moving.

Thanks !!

[Max Gravity]

Since it bothers you remove tire and true the wheel.
There are so many other things to think about when riding anyway...
Some folks recommend to re-glue the tire every year.
I know that some older red glue dried and got hard but nowadays
it doesn't seem to be a big issue.

[Ivan]

No, the valve is out of true ! Not the wheel itself. Kinda hard to explain, the valve is not parallel to the spokes lets say and it was parallel when I used the wheel last summer.

Anyway, I removed the tubular and will be regluing it. It is one of my favorite front wheels, light enough, decent aero and solid.

Regards

[fdegrove]

Hi,

I don't get it.
On a rim such as a Corima Aero the valve stem is supported at the rim bed and at the top of the rim. How can this go out of true all by itself?

Or do you mean the top of the valve core is knocked out of whack?

Ciao,

[stella-azzurra]

Hey,

I'm repairing my first tubular Vittoria CX 21mm

1. removed the base tape
2. cut a section of thread on the casing
3. cut a a section of thread on the inner fabric between the casing and latex tube.
4. patched the tube
5. got the strainght needle to sow on the inner fabric cover
6. got the curved needle for the casing
7. got the kevlar thread
8. made sure the tube holds air after the patch was applied.

Where is a good place to get the latex glue for the base tape.

Thanks

[fdegrove]

Hi,

I don't quite get #7 Kevlar thread?

Instead of latex based glue you can use Barge cement which a common brand in the U.S.

Ciao,

[11.4]

I actually wouldn't use kevlar thread. It tends to cut through the casing. Same for Spectra thread. Easier is to use 20 lb flat woven Dacron thread (the stuff used as backing for flylines) or simple dental floss. It doesn't have to be fancy.

As for the adhesive, I'd second the use of Barge cement. If you want to use a latex cement, I'd suggest you check out carpetlayers' cement at Home Depot. This stuff isn't really latex any longer --it's acrylic -- and doesn't work as well as the latex stuff for tubulars, but plenty of people use it. I prefer Barge and that's been my recommendation on this forum for a while. With newer all-black tires, the rubbers that the sidewalls and basetapes are coated in do interfere with older water-based latex (or acrylic) adhesives.

Hey,

I'm repairing my first tubular Vittoria CX 21mm

1. removed the base tape
2. cut a section of thread on the casing
3. cut a a section of thread on the inner fabric between the casing and latex tube.
4. patched the tube
5. got the strainght needle to sow on the inner fabric cover
6. got the curved needle for the casing
7. got the kevlar thread
8. made sure the tube holds air after the patch was applied.

Where is a good place to get the latex glue for the base tape.

Thanks

[hockinsk]

You don't need to sew the liner back too stella. Just tuck it all back under before you sew the casing. It's only there to stop the thread/carcass rubbing on the inner tube, so as long as it lines up still, should be fine to just leave it as is?

In UK there is a product you will find in most Carpet Shops / DIY stores and Stationers called Copydex Adhesive which is essentially latex. I have used this with great results. I use it like a contact adhesive in that I coat the casing and the inside of the basetape, let it all dry (when the white latex turns clear) and then press together.

[stella-azzurra]

OK I will not use the kevlar thread. I will try the other threads. The dental floss might be good. Seems a bit thicker than the thread that's on the casing.

By the way the reason I am repairing this tubular is that the latex tube just blew. right near the valve stem. Seems like a weak spot in the latex or latex seemed a lot thinner in that spot. Anyway I patched it and it holds air now.

Is the Barge Cement stronger than latex? or similar?

[fdegrove]

Hi,

You don't need to sew the liner back too stella. Just tuck it all back under before you sew the casing. It's only there to stop the thread/carcass rubbing on the inner tube, so as long as it lines up still, should be fine to just leave it as is?

Exactly. I wouldn't even have a clue on how to get it sewn back into place really...

As for the thread, I use Johnson & Johnson's flat dental flos which is stronger than the regular version and the wax keeps the various fibres together while sewing.

Ciao,

[stella-azzurra]

If you want to go the extra mile or kilometer the liner can be sewn back into place by holding it down with a few pins provided you removed the stitches properly and didn't cut the liner material which can easily be done.
I thank you all for the replies.