light QR skewers
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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Lightweight skewers do not grip as well as heavier ones, and TI is the worse because it has tendency to stretch a bit which means it will, or can loosen up while riding.
The best one by far in terms of holding power is the Dura Ace 9000 skewer, but it's not the lightest one at 126 grams.
The lightest steel skewer comes in at 60 grams, it's the KCNC Stainless Z6, but the clamping force isn't as much as the Dura Ace but better than the TI ones.
The next really good skewer with strong lock force and weighing 90 grams is the Promax QR-2, this clamp comes darn near the clamping force of the DA 9000 but for a lot less money.
Ultimately, it's going to be up to you as to whether or not you want to trust riding with skewers that may not hold. The front wheel isn't as critical as the rear, if that rear skewer doesn't have a firm grip it can slowly gouge out the dropouts as it shifts around, and really make a mess of CF dropouts as well as aluminum dropouts. Most professional racers use the DA9000 because they know it will hold, but those riders are strong, if you're a fairly weak rider a TI skewer should be fine.
The best one by far in terms of holding power is the Dura Ace 9000 skewer, but it's not the lightest one at 126 grams.
The lightest steel skewer comes in at 60 grams, it's the KCNC Stainless Z6, but the clamping force isn't as much as the Dura Ace but better than the TI ones.
The next really good skewer with strong lock force and weighing 90 grams is the Promax QR-2, this clamp comes darn near the clamping force of the DA 9000 but for a lot less money.
Ultimately, it's going to be up to you as to whether or not you want to trust riding with skewers that may not hold. The front wheel isn't as critical as the rear, if that rear skewer doesn't have a firm grip it can slowly gouge out the dropouts as it shifts around, and really make a mess of CF dropouts as well as aluminum dropouts. Most professional racers use the DA9000 because they know it will hold, but those riders are strong, if you're a fairly weak rider a TI skewer should be fine.
Promax - I've had bad luck with plastic bushing skewers.
My favorite light weigth skewer is the Zipp titantium. It has a brass bushing and clamps pretty well. It's not quite as light as the lightest stuff you'll find out there.
My favorite light weigth skewer is the Zipp titantium. It has a brass bushing and clamps pretty well. It's not quite as light as the lightest stuff you'll find out there.
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DT Swiss RWS skerers were the best ones I used. The Ti ones come in at 75 grams for the pair and the clamping mechanism is rock solid.
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To add another similar option I like the View Speed S4
One thing that I dont like is the non flat clamping surface which creates stronger contact but can damage dropouts so I shim them with washers.
Hey,
I've just found a crack on my QR from Roval wheels (probably I was using too much force), and I need ones (or at least one), S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame - rim brakes.
Can you feel the difference between 'standard' ones that weights >100g and light ones? (35-50g?) I'm not talking about the weight but clamping force (and bike handling later etc.)
Or difference between ones with internal cam mechanism and the ones with 'external' (of course I'll avoid ones with plasticky parts).
somehow wheel manufacturers, even with most expensive wheels and lightest wheels, provide quite standard skewers weighting >100g (roval, shimano etc.)
I've just found a crack on my QR from Roval wheels (probably I was using too much force), and I need ones (or at least one), S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame - rim brakes.
Can you feel the difference between 'standard' ones that weights >100g and light ones? (35-50g?) I'm not talking about the weight but clamping force (and bike handling later etc.)
Or difference between ones with internal cam mechanism and the ones with 'external' (of course I'll avoid ones with plasticky parts).
somehow wheel manufacturers, even with most expensive wheels and lightest wheels, provide quite standard skewers weighting >100g (roval, shimano etc.)
Last edited by razorree on Tue Apr 23, 2024 8:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
I have Halo skewers on my last remaining rim brake bike. They were cheap, light, stiff, and "aero". I can't remember what they weigh, and can't access my spreadsheet at the moment, but it seems like they were around 60g - so not the lightest, but not as heavy as standard skewers.
https://www.halowheels.com/shop/compone ... y-skewers/
https://www.halowheels.com/shop/compone ... y-skewers/
2015 Wilier Zero.7 Rim - 6.37kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
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QR skewers are a bit all over the place. In general like you say vendors supply quite heavy skewers which in general can apply a lot of load. In general the light cam lever ones apply a lot less load but that is the worse of the two conditions.razorree wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 3:29 pmI've just found a crack on my QR from Roval wheels (probably I was using too much force)
Can you feel the difference between 'standard' ones that weights >100g and light ones? (35-50g?) I'm not talking about the weight but clamping force (and bike handling later etc.)
somehow wheel manufacturers, even with most expensive wheels and lightest wheels, provide quite standard skewers weighting >100g (roval, shimano etc.)
It is a bit of a goldilocks situation of finding a skewer to apply the right load to the assembly. Also the load used to cam the lever will apply different load to the assembly. A very tight cam close force on a light skewer with a small lever applies less compression force to the bike than say medium cam load on Shimano lever which is longer. In general it is also easier to back off on the force of the heavier levers than add more force to the light ones with small arms.
I personally avoid the light cam levers but go with the hex assemblies for better aero.
Another issue is the knurling used on all kinds of QR skewers can dig into a fork or frame made of carbon. Some dropouts are metal to avoid issues. Personally I use washers to avoid frame damage.
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I have used KCNC Titanium spiraling groove skewer for the rear, and it did not hold as well especially when putting the power down on the rear. It gets the job done for the front, and especially I can see it when riding, so I am okay with it. Ended up using a Campy on the rear for power intensive rides.