Bora WTO

Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!

Moderator: robbosmans

Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.

If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
usr
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2021 5:58 pm

by usr

Cup and cone means that you can access the balls and their cages with nothing more than a few hex wrenches (assuming no factory-overtightened threads, like some WTO seem to be). Specialty tools only come into play when you want to go beyond cleaning/replacing the balls and want to replace the races as well (cups+cones, which happen to be replacible on most campag hubs, unlike most other cup+cone hubs)
Last edited by usr on Fri Oct 14, 2022 8:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


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V3Rs
Posts: 132
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2022 10:54 pm

by V3Rs

thanks...

kristapsb
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 9:26 am

by kristapsb

Recently got a WTO 60 Rim brake wheelset and noticed that the front wheel isn't 100% true - https://imgur.com/a/MWUEOeX Is this considered normal or does it need truing?

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fa63
Posts: 2533
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:26 am
Location: Atlanta, GA, US

by fa63

kristapsb wrote:Recently got a WTO 60 Rim brake wheelset and noticed that the front wheel isn't 100% true - https://imgur.com/a/MWUEOeX Is this considered normal or does it need truing?
That is probably within what Campy considers acceptable. But if it bothers you, a good shop can make it better in a couple of minutes.

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smokva
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:13 pm

by smokva

fa63 wrote:
Sun Oct 30, 2022 3:04 pm
That is probably within what Campy considers acceptable. But if it bothers you, a good shop can make it better in a couple of minutes.
I wouldn't agree...Campy tolerances are way smaller than this, probably +/- 0,5 mm in any direction. This wheel needs to be trued, and for wto nipples special tool is needed. Campagnolo code is UT-WH090 , or Fulcrum equivalent T-18.
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Fulcr ... ch-p44205/

AW84
Posts: 199
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:04 am

by AW84

Got my 60's in and a put couple rides on them. First, they're a major SOB to get tires on and off of, and not looking forward to that first roadside flat repair at all. Second, and to echo what's already been said, they are fantastic. I own/have ridden 50mm and 55mm from other top brands, and these are an honest one full mph faster uphill, flat, wherever...not because of any great aero features, but the complete lack of rolling resistance in the hubs and bearings. I thought I had ridden well-rolling wheels in the past, but these are next-level. You can feel how smooth they are just pushing the bike around by hand. I'm impressed.

Question: do they get any quieter under braking as the pads wear in? I didn't expect the grooved tracks to be silent, but they whistle pretty good. No doubt I'll get some eye rolls from the disc-brake dorks at the club rides next year.

romanmoser
Posts: 573
Joined: Sun May 06, 2018 8:30 pm

by romanmoser

na they'll do that noise forever ( much less when brake pads are worn out and need to be replaced )
i don't dislike it compared to disc noises, the bora wto brake noise like hed black brake tracks is really nice i find

LMCuba
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:44 am

by LMCuba

Is it normal for the high-pitched braking noise on AC3 wheels to quiet down after a while? My rear brake is now mostly quiet after ~2 months whereas the front brake still makes the loud noise.

usr
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2021 5:58 pm

by usr

Regarding the rim front bearing maintenance issue (end caps torqued super tight from factory, I'm currently hit by this on a set of C17 Zondas) : it might not be a coincidence that the instruction video shows the other end of the hub being held by *both* a vise holding the hex and a supporting 14mm spanner on the flat parts of the axle. Almost seems like a hidden confession that the spanner on aluminum alone might not stand the torque (of course as usual with instruction videos, everything loosens with a gentle touch...).

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MDecius
Posts: 115
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:50 pm

by MDecius

Received a set of rim-brake WTO 45's for my current build (Time Alpe d'Huez 01), and so far I am _very_ impressed regarding the quality on inspecting the final product. However, I have 2 questions:

Each rim has 3 small holes drilled around the brake track, see this photo:
Image

Is this expected? A friend from my club mentioned they are probably for water drainage, but he thought it was strange to have them on the brake track. His Mavic Cosmic SLR Ultimates have holes but they are much further down the rim body.

The AC3 etching around the brake track seems to have been applied in sections with very visible lines delimiting them (see below), which in some places is quite asymmetrical. I'm wondering what this could be. Perhaps there is some extra coating process applied afterwards, or the wheels are mounted in some machine to etch them that can only do 1/8th of the wheel at a time? Have other owners also seen this?

Image
Image
Road - Time Alpe d'Huez 01 rim
All-road - Diverge Elite DSW '16 disc

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Berk
Carbon Cowboy
Posts: 1100
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:20 pm
Location: Slovenia

by Berk

In case of a tyre puncture/valve failure those holes can also prevent any stress that could be caused by the tyre pressure (you can see such holes also on some Lightweight wheels next to the valve hole).

The small lines could be lines from a masking tape - probably they protect the braking area with some masking material and polish or clearcoat the rim. If masked by hand there could be such "imperfections", but nothing to worry about.

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MDecius
Posts: 115
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:50 pm

by MDecius

Thanks!

I just got done mounting up some GP 5000 S TRs (25mm) on these, and I will agree that this rim/tire combo is an insanely tight fit. Many have reported this in this thread but I got in that trap of thinking "how hard can it _really_ be".... Took me roughly 2.5 hours to get two tires on. Here's hoping I dont puncture too much because changing those on the side of the road might not go too well!! Maybe another argument to actually try tubeless, but that's another kettle of fish that I'm not so sure is worth it.

Also regarding what some say about width, I can add my data point here. 25mm GP5k STRs measured 24.69mm (+/- 0.01) inflated to 7 bar with a standard butyl tube. I've heard that GP5k's widen out after a bit of riding, so they will probably come out at true 25mm as soon as I manage to actually build the bike these wheels are for, and ride it.
Road - Time Alpe d'Huez 01 rim
All-road - Diverge Elite DSW '16 disc

Nickldn
Posts: 1867
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

MDecius wrote:
Sun Jan 29, 2023 5:54 pm
Thanks!

I just got done mounting up some GP 5000 S TRs (25mm) on these, and I will agree that this rim/tire combo is an insanely tight fit. Many have reported this in this thread but I got in that trap of thinking "how hard can it _really_ be".... Took me roughly 2.5 hours to get two tires on. Here's hoping I dont puncture too much because changing those on the side of the road might not go too well!! Maybe another argument to actually try tubeless, but that's another kettle of fish that I'm not so sure is worth it.
That's strange, it took me about 20 minutes to put a pair of 25mm S TRs onto my Bora WTOs, I can't say it was too hard and I barely had to use a tyre lever. Maybe the tyres and wheels vary. The key is always to get one side of the bead on the rim and then put it in the centre channel. That makes getting the second bead on much much easier.
MDecius wrote:
Sun Jan 29, 2023 5:54 pm
Also regarding what some say about width, I can add my data point here. 25mm GP5k STRs measured 24.69mm (+/- 0.01) inflated to 7 bar with a standard butyl tube.
Are you running the S TR tubless, or with a tube? If the latter then a standard GP5000 is probably better and cheaper, although a bit wider.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

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MDecius
Posts: 115
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:50 pm

by MDecius

Nickldn wrote:
Sun Jan 29, 2023 6:16 pm
That's strange, it took me about 20 minutes to put a pair of 25mm S TRs onto my Bora WTOs, I can't say it was too hard and I barely had to use a tyre lever. Maybe the tyres and wheels vary. The key is always to get one side of the bead on the rim and then put it in the centre channel. That makes getting the second bead on much much easier.
Yes you're right, I focused on that but still struggled. They were such a tight fit that I barely was able to get the _first bead_ on by hand...

Nickldn wrote:
Sun Jan 29, 2023 6:16 pm

Are you running the S TR tubless, or with a tube? If the latter then a standard GP5000 is probably better and cheaper, although a bit wider.
The plan was to go tubeless in the end for lower RR and hopefully fewer flats as well, but I put a tube in there for now. I'm interested to see if the tires stretch out a bit over time after being mounted, and thus make them easier to remove. As is, I would probably not consider sticking with the GP5K S TR.
Road - Time Alpe d'Huez 01 rim
All-road - Diverge Elite DSW '16 disc

sfo423
Posts: 736
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 6:12 pm
Location: San Francisco

by sfo423

Lots of comments on the challenge of installing tubeless tires on the WTO (and Fulcrum Speed). Maybe a list of (a) easy to fit and (b) very hard to fit tires?

-P Zero in a 26; Very, very hard to fit (but love 'em once they are rolling).
-Schwalbe Pro One TLE in a 25; much easier to fit but way too fragile for my roads

by Weenie


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