Supersix Evo Hi Mod 2018

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Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

I just got this frame:

IMG_20200908_224854.jpg
IMG_20200908_224828.jpg

and I'm putting together a build list:

Frame: 2018 Cannondale SuperSix Evo Hi Mod size 54 Rim Brake
Crank: Cannondale SISL2, with 4iiii left only power meter (+9g)
Chainrings: Cannondale Spiderings 53/39
BB: BBInfinite PF30A Ceramitech WS2
Pedals: Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti
Groupset: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 (inc. Sprint Shifters and Bar End Junction Box)
Brakes: eeBrakes or THM FIbulas, still deciding
Brake Housing: Niro-Glide Turbo Plus Black
Stem: Really stuck on this one, not sure what to choose! Maybe MCFK 90mm -6, maybe Ritchey Superlogic C260 90mm or Ritchey WCS C220, maybe Kalloy Uno 90mm -7, maybe an Enve? I need a head explodes emoji.
Handlebars: Schmolke Roadbar Oversize Evo TLO 44cm 110kg version UD Finish (est. 160g)
Shifter Clamps: Schmolke Carbon Shifter Clamps
Bar Tape: Deda Bar Tape Black
Expander Plug: Colnago Fork Expander
Headset Bolt: Schmolke Carbon
Headset Bearings & Top Cap: Thinking about replacing the Cannondale set with Cane Creek AER (just the bearings and the top cap from the 40 series), or maybe a Ritchey WCS headset
Seatpost: MCFK Offset Seatpost 25.4mm 320mm UD Finish
Seat: Maybe Selle Italia SLR Boost Kit Carbonio Superflow, or maybe AX Lightness Leaf Leather
Wheelset 1: Corima WS+ 47mm Tubulars with Veloflex ProTour Race 25mm Gum Sidewall Tires
Wheelset 2: Campagnolo WTO 33's with Veloflex Corsa Race 25mm Gum Sidewall Tires and Vredestein Race Latex Inner Tubes
Skewers: LifeLine Titanium Road Quick Release Set
Wahoo Computer Mount: TBD. Maybe Form F3 but depends on the final choice of stem.
Water Bottle Cages (and Bottles) Opt-1 for short rides: Elite Chrono TT
Water Bottle Cages Opt 2: Blackburn Cinch Bottle Cage Black + Elite Fly Bottles
Bottle Cage Bolts: Schmolke Carbon


The goal of the bike is to be lightweight to a degree, but also be strong enough to train on and sprint on, be reliable and also look good! It'll be a dry weather only bike as well.

I'll post weights as I get the components in. I'm coming in at 80kg to get us started! :P

Thoughts and ideas welcome! :beerchug:

Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

Some frame weights:

Frame: 780g (with cable guides which will be removed in the build - I'll weigh them when removed)
2020-09-09 22.01.16.jpg
Fork: 295g
2020-09-09 22.05.28.jpg
Tall top cap: 17g
2020-09-09 22.03.20.jpg
Flat top cap: 4g
2020-09-09 22.03.33.jpg
Upper bearing & guide: 22g
2020-09-09 22.04.00.jpg
Lower bearing: 27g
2020-09-09 22.04.20.jpg
Seat post clamp: 13g
2020-09-09 22.03.11.jpg

by Weenie


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Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

Deciding between expander plugs:
2020-09-14 15.55.00.jpg
The Cannondale stock plug is impressively light at 16g, especially considering that it doesn't require a top cap - the black piece is the top cap.
2020-09-14 15.52.24.jpg
However I've decided not to use it because the steerer tube would be completely unsupported. The black rings of the expander measure 23.34mm in diameter, vs the inner diameter of the steerer which is at 24.05-24.10 (measured twice in perpendicular directions, let's call them A and B). The steerer tube doesn't compact that much - checking with a random 3T stem I had lying around torqued to 5Nm reshaped it to 24.15-24.05, so it actually widened in the A plane and was compressed in the B plane. Either way, the expander won't make any contact and so won't help in supporting the tube. The only contact points will be two thin rings at the bottom of the expander.

Next choice was the Colnago expander:
2020-09-14 15.51.45.jpg
This is a good expander which I do like, but I realized that it's made for steerer tubes with smaller IDs. The diameter of the expander top and bottom pieces is 21.8mm. The metal sleeve can be made to expand wide enough but you're pushing the limits. I left it for some time at a large expansion to open it up, but it's quite stiff and causes the sleeve to bow. So at this diamater (24ish mm) the top and bottom of the sleeve end up slightly larger in diameter than the middle. It's about 0.2-0.3mm, so still usable and still better than stock I think, but it's not the best option. Another thing I noticed was that it was expanding the steerer in an oval shape. If you imagine looking down at the top of the expander plug with the sleeve positioned so that the gap is facing forwards, then the x-axis expanded more than the y-axis. Again not ideal. FYI the overall height of the expander measured at 90.8mm and the height of the metal sleeve was 82mm, and the weight per the picture is 43g.

Next up, the Deda HSS Expander. I was very impressed by this plug, the build quality and finish are excellent. The diameter of the top and bottom pieces measures at 23.2mm, so the starting diameter is much closer to the dimensions of the steerer and it's a better fit for this bike. The gap in the metal sleeve is also much smaller than the colnago expander above, so it creates a more even and circular pressure on the inside of the steerer (i.e. no oval expansion). The whole expander measures 71mm in height and the metal sleeve 60mm.
2020-09-14 15.51.59.jpg
Weight is 39g. Not WW but it will support the steerer all the way down until the top headset bearing, so I'm happy about the extra strength and hopefully stiffness it will bring to the front end.

It also came with this top cap which was less impressive at 17g:
2020-09-14 15.56.18.jpg
I'll definitely be replacing that with a lighter one!

Just for completeness, the last plug here was the Deda Expander 45. Same diameter and nice quality as the HSS above, but 46.7mm total length and 35mm length of the metal sleeve. At only a 5g difference and almost twice the supporting length, I'll be using the HSS above.
2020-09-14 15.52.07.jpg

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PinaRene
Posts: 884
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:08 pm

by PinaRene

As for your info. I use an Carbon-ti expander plug from R2 Bikes.

https://r2-bike.com/CARBON-TI-Expander-X-Plug

I am really happy with it and also have the same on my Holdsworth and Scott bike. A fews weeks ago I had to dissamble my Scott bike for a respray and checked the steerer tube that still looks like new. No imprints from stem or anything strange. On my Cannondale I have a K Alloy uno stem - torqued to 3.8Nm - and thats enough in combination with some carbon paste.

Also have a buildlist from my bike - but I don't want to be the garbage in your topic. 😋

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mendiz
Posts: 340
Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 3:08 am

by mendiz

Great build, my advice is get rid of Lifeline skewers, I had Lightweight skewers that are the same and they are rubbish, you will notice how rear wheel move when you sprint hard. Except old Tune 16+17 the only internal lightweight, you can choose any internal cam like Dura ace, Record, DT, Royce, Paul, although you gain 100 grs over Lifeline , your performance for sure will be better
You don´t stop riding when you get old, you get old when you stop riding.

MichaelK
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2018 4:50 pm
Location: London, UK

by MichaelK

Luften wrote:
Wed Sep 09, 2020 10:33 pm
Some frame weights:

Frame: 780g (with cable guides which will be removed in the build - I'll weigh them when removed)
2020-09-09 22.01.16.jpg
Cable guides are 7.9g for the downtube and 4.6g for the ones inside the BB shell.

Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

PinaRene wrote:
Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:31 pm
As for your info. I use an Carbon-ti expander plug from R2 Bikes.

https://r2-bike.com/CARBON-TI-Expander-X-Plug

I am really happy with it and also have the same on my Holdsworth and Scott bike. A fews weeks ago I had to dissamble my Scott bike for a respray and checked the steerer tube that still looks like new. No imprints from stem or anything strange. On my Cannondale I have a K Alloy uno stem - torqued to 3.8Nm - and thats enough in combination with some carbon paste.

Also have a buildlist from my bike - but I don't want to be the garbage in your topic. 😋
Thanks for the link, looks like it's well made although I'm looking for something a bit taller that can support the steerer over the full height of the stem and also extend down to the top headset bearing for extra strength and stiffness in that area. It's probably overkill as the Cannondale stock plug provides literally zero support and yet that setup must have been shipped with hundreds of thousands of frames without problems. But it still makes me feel a bit more comfortable to add some strength to the area.

Nice looking bikes you have. Would you happen to have the weights for your Scott's Ritchey headset piece by piece?

Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

mendiz wrote:
Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:39 pm
Great build, my advice is get rid of Lifeline skewers, I had Lightweight skewers that are the same and they are rubbish, you will notice how rear wheel move when you sprint hard. Except old Tune 16+17 the only internal lightweight, you can choose any internal cam like Dura ace, Record, DT, Royce, Paul, although you gain 100 grs over Lifeline , your performance for sure will be better
I actually bought these about a year ago on a whim and put them on my training bike, and they've been flawless. I do crank them down pretty hard so maybe that helps, but no creaks or noises or wheel slipping, and I've ridden pretty hard on them. I have a bunch of other skewers so I can always swap them out if I don't like them when riding. The Corima wheels came with their own skewers which look a bit beefier but not as heavy as the campag ones, so I'll use those when running the Corima wheels. I'll post the weights here when I get to them.

Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

MichaelK wrote:
Tue Sep 15, 2020 1:51 pm
Luften wrote:
Wed Sep 09, 2020 10:33 pm
Some frame weights:

Frame: 780g (with cable guides which will be removed in the build - I'll weigh them when removed)
2020-09-09 22.01.16.jpg
Cable guides are 7.9g for the downtube and 4.6g for the ones inside the BB shell.
Thanks :beerchug: There are also some cable routing sheaths which will come out so maybe a couple of extra grams there too.

User avatar
PinaRene
Posts: 884
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:08 pm

by PinaRene

Luften wrote:
Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:45 pm
Nice looking bikes you have. Would you happen to have the weights for your Scott's Ritchey headset piece by piece?
@Luften - Thanks for the compliment. Headset top cup is gone with the frame for a new paint design. I will weigh the complete set ( topcap - bearings - expander plug - top cup ) when the frame is back to me.

MichaelK
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2018 4:50 pm
Location: London, UK

by MichaelK

Luften wrote:
Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:51 pm
MichaelK wrote:
Tue Sep 15, 2020 1:51 pm
Luften wrote:
Wed Sep 09, 2020 10:33 pm
Some frame weights:

Frame: 780g (with cable guides which will be removed in the build - I'll weigh them when removed)
2020-09-09 22.01.16.jpg
Cable guides are 7.9g for the downtube and 4.6g for the ones inside the BB shell.
Thanks :beerchug: There are also some cable routing sheaths which will come out so maybe a couple of extra grams there too.
The Di2 specific mech hanger is 1.0g lighter too.

User avatar
PinaRene
Posts: 884
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:08 pm

by PinaRene

PinaRene wrote:
Wed Sep 16, 2020 2:56 pm
Luften wrote:
Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:45 pm
Nice looking bikes you have. Would you happen to have the weights for your Scott's Ritchey headset piece by piece?
@Luften - Thanks for the compliment. Headset top cup is gone with the frame for a new paint design. I will weigh the complete set ( topcap - bearings - expander plug - top cup ) when the frame is back to me.
Weighted the original complete headset - sorry not piece by piece but complete :

Both Richey bearings - top bearing cup - top headset - fork expander - topcap + bolt = 124 gram and after updat with the carbon-Ti expander and Riesel topcap and bolt the new weight is 102 gram. So a nice weight saving of 22 gram.

Image
Image

Luften
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:31 pm

by Luften

What seatpost should I go for between these two?

MCFK Setback:
1---Setback-Seatpost.jpg
MCFK Straight:
2---Straight-Seatpost.jpg
Roughly 40g savings with the straight post. The saddle is likely to be positioned most of the way forwards.

NB. The rest of the components are just the stock photo, not the actual build. I just did a quick mock up with the seatpost on these images to see how they would look.

gurk700
Posts: 1043
Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2017 7:40 pm

by gurk700

Luften wrote:
Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:36 am
What seatpost should I go for between these two?

MCFK Setback:
1---Setback-Seatpost.jpg

MCFK Straight:
2---Straight-Seatpost.jpg

Roughly 40g savings with the straight post. The saddle is likely to be positioned most of the way forwards.

NB. The rest of the components are just the stock photo, not the actual build. I just did a quick mock up with the seatpost on these images to see how they would look.
Straight vs setback shouldn't be a matter of weight. Get whichever suits your body.
You can get some serious knee / other issues choosing one over the other.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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