And Farsports wheels have arrived, paintless glossy. 1235g with tape but without valves. 28mm TT TR are 260g each.
Depending on how much work is involved to remove the orange peel, I will probably start with the build end of next week. TBC
Raw 2024 Propel
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Frame, fork and seatpost are with the painter. In fact he was able to clearcoat the parts just one hour ago. But there is a bit of orange peel that needs to be removed. Strangely enough only on the frame. Both fork and seatpost have impecable finish. Sigh, there is always something...
And Farsports wheels have arrived, paintless glossy. 1235g with tape but without valves. 28mm TT TR are 260g each.
Depending on how much work is involved to remove the orange peel, I will probably start with the build end of next week. TBC
And Farsports wheels have arrived, paintless glossy. 1235g with tape but without valves. 28mm TT TR are 260g each.
Depending on how much work is involved to remove the orange peel, I will probably start with the build end of next week. TBC
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My experience with orange peel is limited, so that's comforting to know. I'll go easy with the sanding part and start with 1000 grit and move my way up to 3000. The last thing I want to do is burn through the clearcoat 
Dannn, that frame and fork look very nice
Dannn, that frame and fork look very nice
And finally I found a discrete way to note to myself when I added sealant the last time
P-touch 12mm black tape with white ink. This comes in handy especially if you have a lot of wheelsets. Can easily be removed and then add another strip of tape. You could also use this to indicate your tire pressure window (i.e. 4.6 - 4.9 etc.) or how much sealant you put in there.
P-touch 12mm black tape with white ink. This comes in handy especially if you have a lot of wheelsets. Can easily be removed and then add another strip of tape. You could also use this to indicate your tire pressure window (i.e. 4.6 - 4.9 etc.) or how much sealant you put in there.
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Wishmaster77
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:12 pm
Hi @Maddie,
very nice work on that frame.
May i ask a question? I have a 2018 Aeroad CF SLX Disc that was repaired from a crash (top tube cracked), completely stripped of the paint with a mix of Knife, Dry and Wetsanding, Dremel... its almost done, shaved about 130g worth of Paint.
However, at the various tube joints there is some silverish looking stuff, think its some kind of filler. Any Idea how to get rid of that? Or how to cover up before clear coating?
Many Thanks.
very nice work on that frame.
May i ask a question? I have a 2018 Aeroad CF SLX Disc that was repaired from a crash (top tube cracked), completely stripped of the paint with a mix of Knife, Dry and Wetsanding, Dremel... its almost done, shaved about 130g worth of Paint.
However, at the various tube joints there is some silverish looking stuff, think its some kind of filler. Any Idea how to get rid of that? Or how to cover up before clear coating?
Many Thanks.
I had a Canyon Ultimate from 2019 that I stripped down too. Like your Aeroad, it had grey-ish filler where the rear triangle is glued to the front triangle.
Unfortunately, the easiest way I see is to simply cover it with black paint. Removing the filler with a knife is possible, but it will create small craters. And you will then have to add black filler anyway.
Or your painter could clearcoat the frame, add a bit of black paint to the clear at the end and then add the blackened clear to the mentioned areas.
Unfortunately, the easiest way I see is to simply cover it with black paint. Removing the filler with a knife is possible, but it will create small craters. And you will then have to add black filler anyway.
Or your painter could clearcoat the frame, add a bit of black paint to the clear at the end and then add the blackened clear to the mentioned areas.
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wheelbuilder
- Posts: 1219
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
Very nicely done!
Never cheer before you know who is winning
My painter offered to correct the orange peel. He's a friend of mine and made a very good price. He's also starting his own business and becoming extremely busy. So I was fine to do it myself. If this was strictly business, then of course I would have asked him to take care of it.
Bike is built but no money shot yet. 6.63kg according to my Kern scale including pedals, sealant, bottle cages and Garmin mount. My cheap chinese scale showed 6.59kg
I will add some details later to show where I was able to make some weights savings. You won't see them easily or not at all on this pic.
Bike is built but no money shot yet. 6.63kg according to my Kern scale including pedals, sealant, bottle cages and Garmin mount. My cheap chinese scale showed 6.59kg
I will add some details later to show where I was able to make some weights savings. You won't see them easily or not at all on this pic.
And I thought I was the first with a Cadex logo on a frame/fork
The Hylix seatposts get more and more attention on this forum. They are one of the very few brands that make aero/proprietary seatposts. The stock seatpost for the Propel weighs 194g while the Hylix is 133g. With Schmolke bolts and some aluminium yokes that I had laying around, you can bring it down to 118g.
That is a very nice weight saving compared to the costs of 120 USD plus the Schmolke parts. The build quality of the Hylix is decent. Perfect fit and no slipping. I added a knurled bolt head on the front bolt for easier adjustment though. Otherwise, you hardly reach it with allen key, especially if you have saddle rails that are very close to the saddle. And yet, I'm thinking about building my own seatpost like I already did with my SL6 and SL7. The Hylix offers the same +15/-5mm offset positions as the original Propel seatpost which is a great thing. I just don't like the look of the offset seatpost, mainly because I don't actually need the offset...
My plan is to use the standard seatpost, cut off the upper clamping mechanism that is glued to the actual seatpost (I call it the tube), use this tube as a positive and make a 2-piece mould of it. Then laminate a new tube using mostly UD cloth and 3K to reinforce the areas where I need to drill holes, remove material and where the seatpost gets clamped. I will add the half-moon seat rail support from an Elite One seatpost and Schmolke yokes and bolts. Finally a self made aluminium rod for the two bolts will complete the set. It will basically look like an Elite One seatpost but with the D-shaped carbon tube. The d-shaped tube will hopefully arrive at something like 70-80g plus the parts that you need to mount the saddle. I hope to get to somewhere between 110-120g in the end.
This little project is no priority and I will take my time to start and complete it. To be honest, it's pure vanity because the Hylix does the job perfectly. I'll ride it in the meantime.
The Hylix seatposts get more and more attention on this forum. They are one of the very few brands that make aero/proprietary seatposts. The stock seatpost for the Propel weighs 194g while the Hylix is 133g. With Schmolke bolts and some aluminium yokes that I had laying around, you can bring it down to 118g.
That is a very nice weight saving compared to the costs of 120 USD plus the Schmolke parts. The build quality of the Hylix is decent. Perfect fit and no slipping. I added a knurled bolt head on the front bolt for easier adjustment though. Otherwise, you hardly reach it with allen key, especially if you have saddle rails that are very close to the saddle. And yet, I'm thinking about building my own seatpost like I already did with my SL6 and SL7. The Hylix offers the same +15/-5mm offset positions as the original Propel seatpost which is a great thing. I just don't like the look of the offset seatpost, mainly because I don't actually need the offset...
My plan is to use the standard seatpost, cut off the upper clamping mechanism that is glued to the actual seatpost (I call it the tube), use this tube as a positive and make a 2-piece mould of it. Then laminate a new tube using mostly UD cloth and 3K to reinforce the areas where I need to drill holes, remove material and where the seatpost gets clamped. I will add the half-moon seat rail support from an Elite One seatpost and Schmolke yokes and bolts. Finally a self made aluminium rod for the two bolts will complete the set. It will basically look like an Elite One seatpost but with the D-shaped carbon tube. The d-shaped tube will hopefully arrive at something like 70-80g plus the parts that you need to mount the saddle. I hope to get to somewhere between 110-120g in the end.
This little project is no priority and I will take my time to start and complete it. To be honest, it's pure vanity because the Hylix does the job perfectly. I'll ride it in the meantime.
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
