Raw 2024 Propel

Who are you (no off-topic talk please)

Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

And here's just a random raw carbon photo dump:

20240324_191950.jpg
20240324_191957.jpg
20240324_192007.jpg
20240324_192013.jpg

And as you can see on the pic below, there are plenty of "flaws". That's what happens when you remove ALL the filler and excess epoxy resin.
If you have been to a manufacturer of mass produced carbon frames, then you'll know that the workers are not oversensitive with their sanding equipment. And time is money...


20240324_192104.jpg

by Weenie


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eins4eins
Posts: 812
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2016 11:49 am

by eins4eins

Seeing your propel, i regret using satin clear on my raw frame. Gloss fits the technical look much better, showing all the details.

minley1
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:53 am
Location: United Kingdom

by minley1

Maddie wrote:
Sat Mar 30, 2024 8:39 am
And here's just a random raw carbon photo dump:


20240324_191950.jpg


20240324_191957.jpg


20240324_192007.jpg


20240324_192013.jpg


And as you can see on the pic below, there are plenty of "flaws". That's what happens when you remove ALL the filler and excess epoxy resin.
If you have been to a manufacturer of mass produced carbon frames, then you'll know that the workers are not oversensitive with their sanding equipment. And time is money...



20240324_192104.jpg
This looks fantastic, top job👍

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

eins4eins wrote:
Sat Mar 30, 2024 9:58 am
Seeing your propel, i regret using satin clear on my raw frame. Gloss fits the technical look much better, showing all the details.
That is true. The Venge and SL7 of my partner are both clearcoated with a satin finish (which is what she prefers) and the carbon doesn't pop as much compared to mine. It's much more subtle and almost looks like black paint.

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

So for now I decided to not build a new carbon tube for the seatpost but to modify the original one. I'm not sure if it is strong enough in the areas where the rod goes through. It's possible that it will let go after some mileage. Time will tell.

That's the complete clamping mechanism including the chopped off part. Two thirds' weight of the seatpost lies there.

20240326_210106.jpg

I made this aluminium rod without the use of a lathe since I don't own one :D But with a drill press, some drill guides and improvisation I made sure that the blind holes are centered and parallel. And then anodised the rod. Unfortunately, the pic is a bit out of focus. If you want to do this too, be aware that UD carbon parts don't like drill bits. I prefer to drill a very small hole and then enlargen it by sanding with a Dremel.

20240329_210258.jpg

Then the most critial part, the sanding of the two half-moons. They need to be identical on both sides, otherwise the saddle will be tilted down or skewed. I started with a Dremel and for the last bit, I used sandpaper on an OD2 steerer that has the same radius like the seat rail clamp.

20240401_145643.jpg
20240329_083908.jpg

I shortened the seatpost tube and removed the paint. The whole seatpost without Di2 mount and race number mount is under 100g. That's not too shabby.

20240329_105955.jpg

Final assembly with different yokes from Schmolke. If you don't need an offset seatpost, there's a way to save 100g without spending a lot of money. Provided you have the tools and faith in your own manual skills.

20240329_213241.jpg
20240329_213233.jpg

Always remember to use a good mask if you are working on carbon parts. And get rid of the carbon dust carefully. I'm not overprotective and cut a steerer without a mask but if you drill or sand for more than a few seconds, then IMHO protection is absolutely necessary.

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

Unfortunately, the seatpost tube didn't last more than 50km. A crack formed and the aluminium rod started his way to the top. I realized that the saddle started moving around a bit and I immediately knew that the tube was starting to crack. This is not a complete surprise since there is no reinforcement in place.

I will build my own seatpost tube that is stronger in the necessary areas. But as mentioned before, this will take time.

Eterna7m
Posts: 425
Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:25 pm

by Eterna7m

Hey regarding the seatpost - is this the one? And would you still recommend it ?
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $113.05 |
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzYpnQ7
I have a pretty low seat height and don't want to cut off half off the original post. Might be a good way to save some weight.

Also interesting to see that your bottle cage doesn't sit flush on the down tube. Same here.

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

Yes, I bought the Hylix seatpost from that store and it fits perfectly. 4Nm is enough and no creaking sounds.

mazador
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:25 am

by mazador

Awesome read and thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the remaining updates :)

Is the DR hanger a Sigeyi?

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

No, it's from AliX. But you need to be careful with those, they are a bit sensitive when it comes to external contact (walls, floor, crash...) and tend to bend easily. But during normal riding, they are totally fine

iamraymond
Posts: 635
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Hey Maddie, are you still running the Swissstop Catalyst Race brakes? What's your impression of them?

I'm thinking about ditching the Galfer Waves to something that can handle the heat from long/steep descents better. In my experience they were working fine in the winter, but as the ambient temperature is rising the Galfers just don't manage heat well enough. I tried the Swissstop Catalyst (non-race) in the 6-bolt configuration, but they were actually worse than the Galfers, I wonder if the Race versions in Centerlock are better.

Maddie
Posts: 1571
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

It's interesting you mention that Galfer rotors. I had the same experience as you last year. I cooked them on a very steep descent where I mistakenly took a wrong road with gravel. Since then, they were not the same anymore and as soon as I applied mid to max brake pressure, they squealed like crazy. Braking performance itself was still fine though.
The new Swissstop rotors are solid so far. I haven't tried them in the Alps yet since the long passes are still closed but from the descents that I rode this year, they are working just fine. Final judgement comes in one or two months though.

NiFTY
Posts: 1497
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

Great build. Love a raw frame, have stripped an evo myself years ago, its a labour of love. Only change I would have made was a smaller giant logo on the frame but other than that perfection to my eyes, chapeau.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

iamraymond
Posts: 635
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Yup, the same experience. They were fine when new, but after I overcooked them on a steep descent the Galfers would start to make noise, then eventually start vibrating. It only happens on the steepest descent. They're perfectly fine for 90% of descents that don't require hard braking at every switch back.

I received the Catalyst Race (sames as yours, I believe) and I'll try them out for a bit. Hopefully they're better than the Catalyst Pro ones.

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