Tarmac SL8 5.835kg New Pics Page 3

[da123]

Shifting is very very slightly worse on YBN compared to Dura-Ace on my bike and I don't think many people would notice the change. Out of the HG+ parts the chain certainly has the least contribution to shift quality with the cassette having the largest contribution followed by the Shimano chainrings which are a step above anything else out there for shifting performane but dont work with 5bolt spiders. I'd recommend picking up a YBN chain of your prefered color to add to a chain rotation scheme for your bike to help minimize wear and then decide which system you like more. It should save around 15g and the oil-slick or gold would look nice with this build.

I've seen tons of problems with Extralite rims so I avoid them. I personally really like berd spokes for their feel out of the road and I build them up with extra spokes, 28/28 for disc, to mittigate lateral stiffness issues so I can recommend them and they save a ton of weight. However many don't like the look of them for road bikes and front spoke aero will be impacted. You could try building just a rear wheel, where spoke aero is less important and comfort matters more, to see how you get on with them. Personally I love extralite 6bolt hubs.

Great, thanks. Will definitely give the YBN chain a whirl. As you say, the rainbow slick colour should look good with the other rainbow slick parts.

Interesting on the Extralite rims. I had creaking issues with my rear wheel, so had it re-built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and a carbon-ti hub. This eliminated the creak and stiffened it up noticeably. The front is still lacking in stiffness though, so thinking about doing the same for the front, but that would negate most of the weight saving over the CRW, which are a bit deeper and wider. I did read about the issues with rims cracking and spokes breaking, however I've not experienced that so far (and the rims are the 'CS' version, which apparently toughened up the areas most prone to failure). Having said that, I've treated them very gently, and wouldn't smash them around on UK roads.

[da123]

- Chain - this is a good call, thanks, and I have considered this before. Only question is whether it will shift worse than DA? Not concerned about the longevity. Any thoughts?

Other areas I've looked at:

- cockpit - could obviously save decent amount of weight with the Darimo cockpit. I really like the Roval cockpit though, and I'd wonder whether I'd be giving up any aero benefit by swapping
- thru axles - the Overfast axles save a small amount, but high cost for something that I'd worry about from a durability perspective
- wheels - I do have a set of Extralite C338, which drop 150g or so on the CRW wheels. I have experienced a few issues with them though, hence giving the CRWs a try as my 'all round' set (I have Roval Rapides as well).

Shifting is very very slightly worse on YBN compared to Dura-Ace on my bike and I don't think many people would notice the change so I think its fairly easy to recommend. Out of the HG+ parts the chain certainly has the least contribution to shift quality with the cassette having the largest contribution followed by the Shimano chainrings which are a step above anything else out there for shifting performance but don't work with 5bolt spiders. I'd recommend picking up a YBN chain of your prefered color to add to a chain rotation scheme for your bike to help minimize wear and then decide which system you like more. It should save around 15g and the oil-slick or gold would look nice with this build.

Edit: To add to the above in terms of shifting quality even minor cage length differences between Ultegra and Dura-Ace was a more noticable change in shift quality vs the change from Shimano to YBN.

I've seen tons of problems with Extralite rims so I avoid them. I personally really like berd spokes for their feel out on the road. I build them up with extra spokes, 28/28 for disc, to mittigate lateral stiffness issues and they save a ton of weight. However many don't like the look of them for road bikes and front spoke aero will be impacted. You could try building just a rear wheel, where spoke aero is less important and comfort matters more, to see how you get on with them. Personally I love extralite 6bolt hubs and lightbicycle rims if you can get them to hit their stated weights.

As an owner of many Darimo parts the Nexus just doesn't look to be a very polished product compared to their other offerings or other competitors in Specialized and EXS. The transition between shapes just looks a bit off to me.

Agreed on the overfast.

We share the same view on the Nexus I think. I don't really like the look of the transition to the spacers compared to the Rapide cockpit, and I find the forward sweep of the Rapide very comfortable and wouldn't like to give this up. I also found Darimo's road bars to be quite uncomfortable (minimal vibration damping) compared to Schmolke bars (albeit they are quite a lot stiffer).

Anyway, just ordered a couple of YBN Rainbow chains, so many thanks for the advice on that

[da123]

- Chain - this is a good call, thanks, and I have considered this before. Only question is whether it will shift worse than DA? Not concerned about the longevity. Any thoughts?

Other areas I've looked at:

- cockpit - could obviously save decent amount of weight with the Darimo cockpit. I really like the Roval cockpit though, and I'd wonder whether I'd be giving up any aero benefit by swapping
- thru axles - the Overfast axles save a small amount, but high cost for something that I'd worry about from a durability perspective
- wheels - I do have a set of Extralite C338, which drop 150g or so on the CRW wheels. I have experienced a few issues with them though, hence giving the CRWs a try as my 'all round' set (I have Roval Rapides as well).

Shifting is very very slightly worse on YBN compared to Dura-Ace on my bike and I don't think many people would notice the change so I think its fairly easy to recommend. Out of the HG+ parts the chain certainly has the least contribution to shift quality with the cassette having the largest contribution followed by the Shimano chainrings which are a step above anything else out there for shifting performance but don't work with 5bolt spiders. I'd recommend picking up a YBN chain of your prefered color to add to a chain rotation scheme for your bike to help minimize wear and then decide which system you like more. It should save around 15g and the oil-slick or gold would look nice with this build.

Edit: To add to the above in terms of shifting quality even minor cage length differences between Ultegra and Dura-Ace was a more noticable change in shift quality vs the change from Shimano to YBN.

I've seen tons of problems with Extralite rims so I avoid them. I personally really like berd spokes for their feel out on the road. I build them up with extra spokes, 28/28 for disc, to mittigate lateral stiffness issues and they save a ton of weight. However many don't like the look of them for road bikes and front spoke aero will be impacted. You could try building just a rear wheel, where spoke aero is less important and comfort matters more, to see how you get on with them. Personally I love extralite 6bolt hubs and lightbicycle rims if you can get them to hit their stated weights.

As an owner of many Darimo parts the Nexus just doesn't look to be a very polished product compared to their other offerings or other competitors in Specialized and EXS. The transition between shapes just looks a bit off to me.

Agreed on the overfast.

We share the same view on the Nexus I think. I don't really like the look of the transition to the spacers compared to the Rapide cockpit, and I find the forward sweep of the Rapide very comfortable and wouldn't like to give this up. I also found Darimo's road bars to be quite uncomfortable (minimal vibration damping) compared to Schmolke bars (albeit they are quite a lot stiffer).

Anyway, just ordered a couple of YBN Rainbow chains, so many thanks for the advice on that

With the rainbow slick chain. Works quite well I think. And saves a hefty 16g of rotating weight

[Aryeh]

Do you have an opinion on the GP5K TT tires yet?

[Matte86]

Yeah I was guessing the same.. what about those TT?

[da123]

Yeah I was guessing the same.. what about those TT?

Still not ridden the bike yet. Weather just not up to it here. Will update when I finally manage to get out.

[Matte86]

thanks

[teckert]

Sorry if I missed it, what direct mount hanger is that? Bike looks great.

[da123]

Sorry if I missed it, what direct mount hanger is that? Bike looks great.

Cheers for that. The hanger is from Frames and Gear. I have a bunch of Redshift direct mount hangers from AliExpress as spares as well, which are great (and dirt cheap), but they don't do the rainbow slick colour.

[da123]

Swapped the decals on my RTP frame. Bit of an overcast day, so possibly the photos don't show the replacements in their best light (they have more of a sparkle in sunlight). Main colour is a dark grey with chrome effect, and a matte black outline. Had an LBS apply them for me, as the likelihood of me messing it up was high...

[da123]

Finally had chance to ride my SL8 - only 5 months after getting it. 103 mile ride on Saturday, and 81 mile ride today. My legs were a bit frazzled on today's ride, but based on both rides, I definitely have no regrets. As others have said, it is very similar to the SL7, but the cumulative marginal improvements combined make for a materially better overall bike IMO. It is definitely stiffer, both through the BB and the bars, and has the lively reactive feel of a really lightweight climbing bike (the SL7 was getting there in this respect, but still felt a little dead to me. Not as much as my Madone, but the feeling was still there. The SL8 does away with this completely, and just encourages you to accelerate and have fun). What is impressive is that it combines that lightweight 'feel' with great flat speed. I rode my CRW4045s on the first ride, and my CRW5060s on the second. It felt fast and aero with both wheelsets (for what its worth, the 4045s are a better overall wheelset IMO). I wouldn't say it is noticeably better than the SL7 in the flat speed stakes. Comfort wise, I was impressed. Both CRW wheelsets are quite a bit stiffer than the wheelsets I used on my SL7 (Roval Rapides, Roval Alpinists and Extralite C338), however the SL8 is at least as comfortable as the SL7.

I would never claim that the improvements are objectively 'night and day', and I very much doubt anyone would be materially (or even at all) 'faster' on the SL8 vs the SL7. The big difference is that it is just so much fun to ride. Up, down, on the flat, it just delivers and puts a big smile on your face, and that's worth a lot IMO.

[Matte86]

Finally had chance to ride my SL8 - only 5 months after getting it. 103 mile ride on Saturday, and 81 mile ride today. My legs were a bit frazzled on today's ride, but based on both rides, I definitely have no regrets. As others have said, it is very similar to the SL7, but the cumulative marginal improvements combined make for a materially better overall bike IMO. It is definitely stiffer, both through the BB and the bars, and has the lively reactive feel of a really lightweight climbing bike (the SL7 was getting there in this respect, but still felt a little dead to me. Not as much as my Madone, but the feeling was still there. The SL8 does away with this completely, and just encourages you to accelerate and have fun). What is impressive is that it combines that lightweight 'feel' with great flat speed. I rode my CRW4045s on the first ride, and my CRW5060s on the second. It felt fast and aero with both wheelsets (for what its worth, the 4045s are a better overall wheelset IMO). I wouldn't say it is noticeably better than the SL7 in the flat speed stakes. Comfort wise, I was impressed. Both CRW wheelsets are quite a bit stiffer than the wheelsets I used on my SL7 (Roval Rapides, Roval Alpinists and Extralite C338), however the SL8 is at least as comfortable as the SL7.

I would never claim that the improvements are objectively 'night and day', and I very much doubt anyone would be materially (or even at all) 'faster' on the SL8 vs the SL7. The big difference is that it is just so much fun to ride. Up, down, on the flat, it just delivers and puts a big smile on your face, and that's worth a lot IMO.

IMG_1044.jpeg

IMG_1042.jpeg

I’ve just moved all parts from an SL7 to an SL8, so still running the CLX I (waiting for some carbon spokes wheels) but I agree with your assessment/ comparison
How do you rate the front shifting with CarbonTi rings? Do you feel more sluggish or less direct than original DA rings?
How about those GP5000 TT?
Thanks

[da123]

Finally had chance to ride my SL8 - only 5 months after getting it. 103 mile ride on Saturday, and 81 mile ride today. My legs were a bit frazzled on today's ride, but based on both rides, I definitely have no regrets. As others have said, it is very similar to the SL7, but the cumulative marginal improvements combined make for a materially better overall bike IMO. It is definitely stiffer, both through the BB and the bars, and has the lively reactive feel of a really lightweight climbing bike (the SL7 was getting there in this respect, but still felt a little dead to me. Not as much as my Madone, but the feeling was still there. The SL8 does away with this completely, and just encourages you to accelerate and have fun). What is impressive is that it combines that lightweight 'feel' with great flat speed. I rode my CRW4045s on the first ride, and my CRW5060s on the second. It felt fast and aero with both wheelsets (for what its worth, the 4045s are a better overall wheelset IMO). I wouldn't say it is noticeably better than the SL7 in the flat speed stakes. Comfort wise, I was impressed. Both CRW wheelsets are quite a bit stiffer than the wheelsets I used on my SL7 (Roval Rapides, Roval Alpinists and Extralite C338), however the SL8 is at least as comfortable as the SL7.

I would never claim that the improvements are objectively 'night and day', and I very much doubt anyone would be materially (or even at all) 'faster' on the SL8 vs the SL7. The big difference is that it is just so much fun to ride. Up, down, on the flat, it just delivers and puts a big smile on your face, and that's worth a lot IMO.

IMG_1044.jpeg
IMG_1042.jpeg

I’ve just moved all parts from an SL7 to an SL8, so still running the CLX I (waiting for some carbon spokes wheels) but I agree with your assessment/ comparison
How do you rate the front shifting with CarbonTi rings? Do you feel more sluggish or less direct than original DA rings?
How about those GP5000 TT?
Thanks

The front shifting isn't more sluggish. It is possibly a bit less 'refined' but it is still top quality shifting. It doesn't hesitate and you don't feel like its struggling to move rings. I can't comment on longevity of the TT TLRs after so few miles, but they are a very fast and supple feeling tire. Even if they don't last as long as the S TR, provided there are no major puncture issues, I think I'll run them as 'everyday'. At the moment, I have the TT TLR on both front and rear of the CRW 4045s, but just on the front of the CRW5060s (STR on the rear).

[Matte86]

Finally had chance to ride my SL8 - only 5 months after getting it. 103 mile ride on Saturday, and 81 mile ride today. My legs were a bit frazzled on today's ride, but based on both rides, I definitely have no regrets. As others have said, it is very similar to the SL7, but the cumulative marginal improvements combined make for a materially better overall bike IMO. It is definitely stiffer, both through the BB and the bars, and has the lively reactive feel of a really lightweight climbing bike (the SL7 was getting there in this respect, but still felt a little dead to me. Not as much as my Madone, but the feeling was still there. The SL8 does away with this completely, and just encourages you to accelerate and have fun). What is impressive is that it combines that lightweight 'feel' with great flat speed. I rode my CRW4045s on the first ride, and my CRW5060s on the second. It felt fast and aero with both wheelsets (for what its worth, the 4045s are a better overall wheelset IMO). I wouldn't say it is noticeably better than the SL7 in the flat speed stakes. Comfort wise, I was impressed. Both CRW wheelsets are quite a bit stiffer than the wheelsets I used on my SL7 (Roval Rapides, Roval Alpinists and Extralite C338), however the SL8 is at least as comfortable as the SL7.

I would never claim that the improvements are objectively 'night and day', and I very much doubt anyone would be materially (or even at all) 'faster' on the SL8 vs the SL7. The big difference is that it is just so much fun to ride. Up, down, on the flat, it just delivers and puts a big smile on your face, and that's worth a lot IMO.

IMG_1044.jpeg
IMG_1042.jpeg

I’ve just moved all parts from an SL7 to an SL8, so still running the CLX I (waiting for some carbon spokes wheels) but I agree with your assessment/ comparison
How do you rate the front shifting with CarbonTi rings? Do you feel more sluggish or less direct than original DA rings?
How about those GP5000 TT?
Thanks

The front shifting isn't more sluggish. It is possibly a bit less 'refined' but it is still top quality shifting. It doesn't hesitate and you don't feel like its struggling to move rings. I can't comment on longevity of the TT TLRs after so few miles, but they are a very fast and supple feeling tire. Even if they don't last as long as the S TR, provided there are no major puncture issues, I think I'll run them as 'everyday'. At the moment, I have the TT TLR on both front and rear of the CRW 4045s, but just on the front of the CRW5060s (STR on the rear).

Thanks for your reply
How come did you end up with a S TR on the rear of the 5060?
Planning on running the TT as well, so by the time my wheels arrive you have more miles on them and give more feedback / reassurance

[da123]

Just as a FYI, with the deeper wheels (CRW 5060), shod with GP5000 S TR 25mm (rear) and GP5000 TT TLR 28mm (front) in each case set up tubeless with approx 30ml sealant, bike weight is 6,030g. Pretty good for an aero bike with deep section wheels, discs and a power meter IMO.