Specialized Tarmac SL6 S-Works Ultralight Rim 49cm - 5.87kg with pedals

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OtterSpace
Posts: 389
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:28 am
Location: California Silicon Valley

by OtterSpace

The chainset and BB are done. Expensive process that added weight to the bike but worth it for power, looks, and BB friction improvements that should help speed and bearing life.
April 2024 Chainset Done.jpg
I said previously I was not a fan of the look of a wide spindle crank on this BB30 frame.

The next day I bought a BBinfinite BB30-DUB-RD to move the bearings outside the frame and reduce the stack of shims.

Old bb on left (not including the tons of shims) and new BB on right.
BB Update.png
I also dumped the Easton cranks I had from another build and went with red cranks like I do on all of my builds. I just havent found a better looking thin crankarm (unlike Easton and the Chinese offerings) at a silimar weight and price. I don't know why I'm so picky but big crank arms just dont visually match the tube shapes of any of my frames which bothers me every time I try any chunkier crankarms. As always I replaced the crap plastic SRAM preloaded with a metal preloader (BAI0030) that I bonded to the crankarm. I vinyl wraped the crank with 3M 2080 to hide logos, match the gloss finish of other crankset parts, protect the crank, and preserve resale.
Crank.PNG
Power wise I was up in the air between Sigeyi AXO (claimed weight 105g) and SRAM/Quarq DFour (166g). I really was 50/50 after reading around but decided to go with SRAM mostly becasue of better resale potential if I decide I dont like it. If this build was more weight focused I would have gone Sigeyi without a doubt.
heavy boi.jpg
All of that took the BB through the 3 stages from BB30 to new BB with Easton 30mm crank to Dub Red D1.
BB Process.PNG
Crank Done.jpg
At a high level I'm preparing to compare RD direct mount hangers (Specialized: S182600004, Wheels Manufacturing: 603, and Pilo: D1263) I won't use a Sigeyi type hanger as they are too hollowed out. This is a place I am willing to add weight for a stiffer hanger.

I also likely will swap over my Dura-Ace RD cage from my ebike to this bike. I have been riding some rough stuff on the ebike that some extra chain tension might marginally help and the look and weight saving are a better match here. I also dont plan to ever ride this on rough stuff so lower chain tension is less of a concern.

Lastly I purchased some new aero focused toys that should be here in the coming weeks.
handlebar.PNG
wheel.png

by Weenie


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reedplayer
Posts: 842
Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:10 am

by reedplayer

I have never heard of Sigeyi Powermeter, but i know, that Sram Quarq have excellent reputation in terms of accuracy. Would be my first choice next to Power2max.

The SL6 looks really nice, imo, it looks much more consistent than the current Sl8-version , but this is a matter of taste for shure.

OtterSpace
Posts: 389
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:28 am
Location: California Silicon Valley

by OtterSpace

After some work this bike is at a point where I'll put some miles in while forming larger opinions.

Currently at ~6.5kg with the weight increase from the front wheel change.
4.jpg
The handlebars were changed to the narrowest lambda cross-wings (formerly x-wings) with 33cm hood clamp area, 40cm drops, and 27cm hood hand position currrently which is hard to show in photos. I've ridden 38cm since 2014, 36cm since 2020, and sub 36cm recently so I was well positioned for this change. I'm liking it currently but haven't put many miles in yet so will reserve judgement. I changed the stem from 90cm which was strangely short for me on this bike's normal bars to 110cm & I have a box of stems (kalloy uno 70-130cm) that I can swap between ready to go from past bike builds.
bars.jpg
The front wheel is a debadged Mavic CXR 60 clincher (C) with a 23mm GP 5000 clincher, vittoria latex 47cm valve tube, with a 20mm vittoria valve extender. This wheel was designed for a specific mavic 23mm tire (Yksion CXR which likely has poor rolling resistance) and is a metal rim with a bonded carbon fairing and channels for a UCI illegal mavic CX01 blade that aerodynamically transitions from the rim to the tire. I have a 25mm GP 5000 TT TR on order that I can try if needed.

Basically illegally aero but heavy AF.
front.jpg
Berd spoke 55mm: 553g. Mavic CXR 60mm C: 877.3g + 2x CX01 blades: 49.5g. Delta: 373.8g not including tires & tubes which are also heavier. Debadged as mentioned before and I added stickers over the fairing to spoke interface as well. Required specific rare brakepads too which are consumable and might be impossible to find in a decade.
wheels.PNG
narrow handlebars:
handlebar2.PNG
At this point my main plan is to ride it more to see how things develop as the front position and components settle. I'm still interested in the delta front brake fairing, might double down on narrow bars, or hate the bars and go back to 36cm in which case I'd currently buy the EXS aerover 36cm.

Fun times which is what its all about.

:beerchug:

OtterSpace
Posts: 389
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:28 am
Location: California Silicon Valley

by OtterSpace

Hood position is down quite a bit along with raising the seatpost more as I adapt to the narrow bars. Time to cut down the steerer too.

Unfortunately no new setup pics yet as I need to rewrap the bars to cover some exposed handlebar from moving the hoods.

At a high level I've been riding the bike quite a bit while my main bike is down for service and mid day temps are over 37C / 100F so I'm riding in the morning and not commuting by bike.

Strangely initially this bike didnt spark much joy after the rebuild and was I considering just flipping out of it in May-June. It worked well but was just kind of soulless and sterile with meh confort, which was likely fit related, if that makes any sense. With more riding and micro adjustment I'm starting to like it a lot more but its a distant 3rd favorite bike currently out of my 5 bike fleet.

Narrow bars are super awesome for me and open up more optimized aero hand positions while maintaining good wide positions when desending from the more aggressive flare.

Here is an image I put together to plan some optimizations. I'm a very visual person so putting together an image to help visualize optimization aids me in planning smaller changes better than the spreadsheet which helped me more for the initial rebuild.
SL6(1).jpg
I purchased the E1 crankarms, plan to change the seat to my prefered option now that I plan to keep it for for awhile, and will perform some of the setup micro savings. I am undecided if I'll revisit the PM, and doubt I'll further touch the RD (I swapped to Dura-Ace cage which isnt shown), FD, or pedals for awhile.

Shifting has been absolutely flawless. Pure Shimano HG+ with a short chainstay and good chainline is truely something else that everyone should try at least once.

Braking is meh as expected. At this point I don't like the extra noise caused by the braking track cutouts compared to my other rim bikes. Direct mount EE seems similar in performance to normal EE, requires more tools to setup correctly*, and has more hidden weight in the fork and rear frame mounting. I like the braking linearity at low to mid brake force but high braking force & fade is nothing like my 180mm front rotor hydro bike so I micro bleed speed a lot more & earlier than I would on my hydro bike on the same steeper descents. For less technical & sub ~12% descents this braking difference isnt exposed for my weight but I frequently ride roads which expose this difference.

Cost to weight and aero is great and why I will likely keep this bike for at least two years while the market settles. I should be able to get this down to 5.8kg at ~$5k with pedals & PM where a China build like a Tavelo at specs I like, given how picky I am, would end up ~6.6kg & ~$7k with terrible resale potential, a SL8 pro ~6.3kg & ~$9k+, and a SL8 S-Works ~6.05kg & ~$11k+ all of which are far slower up hill than my commuter ebike that I put most of my yearly miles into.

The future is now.

*For the direct mount EE you will need a long 6mm hex and a 13mm open end crowfoot to 3/8" drive, or similar, to correctly torque the individual arms. To me this is more faff than just correctly aligning and torquing a single bolt EE.

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