Love the low BB and the chopstick seat stays.
What brand of T47 BB is that? It’s light but did it come with a plastic inner sleeve? And if it did, how heavy is the sleeve? I assume the English BB shell is 86mm wide, hence the need for a T47 BB with internal bearings? Lastly, I assume the BB doesn’t use a plastic bearing sleeve?
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Ryan's Uber Geek Bike (English Stainless Custom)
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I specc'd a 68mm wide shell so that I had the flexibility to run Cannondale cranks. I generally like the ankle clearance.
The BB is an FSA T47 and the plastic shell was discarded. This most likely will be a fairweather bike so not a big deal in SoCal.
@nickf weird, that hasn't been my experience with Parlee clamps. I've used them on all of my Ti bikes (and the Calfee) and they're the only carbon ones I haven't had a problem with. Granted, the Ti bikes tend to caliper to exactly the dimensions. Throw in paint and you'll have mixed experience I guess.
@iamraymond the bearings definitely sit in the cups a lot tighter than CC or Extralite. I'm a big fan of this headset but they're pretty hard to track down.
The BB is an FSA T47 and the plastic shell was discarded. This most likely will be a fairweather bike so not a big deal in SoCal.
@nickf weird, that hasn't been my experience with Parlee clamps. I've used them on all of my Ti bikes (and the Calfee) and they're the only carbon ones I haven't had a problem with. Granted, the Ti bikes tend to caliper to exactly the dimensions. Throw in paint and you'll have mixed experience I guess.
@iamraymond the bearings definitely sit in the cups a lot tighter than CC or Extralite. I'm a big fan of this headset but they're pretty hard to track down.
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I had a few minutes while playing ball with my dog to mock it up:
Ah. I forgot the Cannondale true 'BB30' cranks need the narrow bearing stance. Just curious. If you're using a crank that doesn't need the narrow BB bearing stance, do you just add spacers to take up the slack? Or is there's any performance benefit from using a T47 BB with external bearing? Wider T47 BBs are heavier, but I thought I ask the question still.
ps I always miss good posts under the 'introduce yourself' category because when I'm on a PC and click on 'active posts' it would only show me new posts for everything except 'introduct yourself'. I wish the webmaster could change that.
I'm on 155s and can't go back to 170s. Aero, aero, aero, and the ability to really turn the pedels over when the pedaling circle is smaller. I don't race. But if you do race, add greater pedal clearance.
@mike I'm 175cm and ride a pretty aggressive position so if I'm in the sphinx position, for example, I'm less prone to hitting my knees on my stomach/chest.
@pdlpsher1 theoretically outboard bearings should last longer since there'd be less stress on the bearings. You can do spacers but it looks a little wonky with around a cm of spacers on the NDS.
@pdlpsher1 theoretically outboard bearings should last longer since there'd be less stress on the bearings. You can do spacers but it looks a little wonky with around a cm of spacers on the NDS.
Looks clean with the M3.
How much would you have to chop the isp? Would you still be ok adjusting the isp upwards with a different length crank in the future?
What chainrings are those? Cannondale?
The chainrings are the Cannondale mkv which weigh a scant 103g with chainring bolts and shift as well as Praxis. They're out of production but I am sitting on like 8 pairs each of compact and standard so I'm good to go for awhile.
@Nixster it has a pinch bolt but the ISP min height was cut for my saddle height so I'd need to shave a few mm off. I think I only need 2 or 3mm though since I am able to ride my regular shoes and my 4 bolt Bonts without difficulty and I think stack height diff on those is 3mm.
@Nixster it has a pinch bolt but the ISP min height was cut for my saddle height so I'd need to shave a few mm off. I think I only need 2 or 3mm though since I am able to ride my regular shoes and my 4 bolt Bonts without difficulty and I think stack height diff on those is 3mm.
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robenglish
- in the industry
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:18 pm
Hi Ryan - another customer pointed me in this direction; nice to see the bike come together! With the seatmast cap, you can flip the Enve hardware the other way up and that will lower the saddle by 6mm. Should save you needing to trim the ISP, at least whilst you are figuring out the build.
To save you needing to strip the frame down, the bare frame weight is 1509g and the seatmast cap is 125g. Let me know if you still can't get the front derailleur clamp; pretty sure I have a Parlee 28.6mm in stock.
Cheers,
Rob.
To save you needing to strip the frame down, the bare frame weight is 1509g and the seatmast cap is 125g. Let me know if you still can't get the front derailleur clamp; pretty sure I have a Parlee 28.6mm in stock.
Cheers,
Rob.
Hey man. I assumed those SiSL2's were going on the S6. Do the right thing.
EDIT: I'm dumb. Was looking at an earlier stage of this build
EDIT: I'm dumb. Was looking at an earlier stage of this build
The SiSL2 on the SSEVO probably fits better with the ethos of that build since that bike is the prissy WW bike as opposed to being a daily driver and SiSL2 tend to crack if you look at them wrong.
@rob, awesome, thanks for the tip! I'll probably reach out to you for the Parlee clamp.
@rob, awesome, thanks for the tip! I'll probably reach out to you for the Parlee clamp.
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Teaser photo of sorts since it's 10pm and I only have street lights to work with
