Building a new rim brake bike in 2023: Time Alpe d'Huez 01

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Aesch
Posts: 332
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:09 pm

by Aesch

What tyre size do you think will fit? 28mm?

by Weenie


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simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

Aesch wrote:
Thu Jul 27, 2023 6:09 pm
What tyre size do you think will fit? 28mm?
I am running 26mm tires that measure 25mm on the rims I am using. There is not a load of additional clearance. I would guess 28mm would be okay depending on rim width and wheel stiffness. I doubt you would get anything bigger than 28 in there.

Aesch
Posts: 332
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:09 pm

by Aesch

simbikotic wrote:
Thu Jul 27, 2023 8:51 pm
Aesch wrote:
Thu Jul 27, 2023 6:09 pm
What tyre size do you think will fit? 28mm?
I am running 26mm tires that measure 25mm on the rims I am using. There is not a load of additional clearance. I would guess 28mm would be okay depending on rim width and wheel stiffness. I doubt you would get anything bigger than 28 in there.
Love the bike btw!

That's on the narrow side thanks

Ferdi77
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2021 5:37 pm

by Ferdi77

Looks very nice !

May I ask your body size and inseam - what size is the frame?


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simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

Ferdi77 wrote:
Fri Jul 28, 2023 7:24 am
Looks very nice !

May I ask your body size and inseam - what size is the frame?


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Sure! I am 176cm, 83cm inseam, frame size small.

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wheelsONfire
Posts: 6394
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:15 am
Location: NorthEU

by wheelsONfire

You could have used Jagwire liners inside the frame. I wouldn't just run the wires bare like the pictures show.
It's just an idea, ofcourse you do as you like :-)
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

wheelsONfire wrote:
Fri Jul 28, 2023 7:56 pm
You could have used Jagwire liners inside the frame. I wouldn't just run the wires bare like the pictures show.
It's just an idea, ofcourse you do as you like :-)
Not at all, thank you for the advice. It's good. I do actually have some liners in my toolbox and considered using them. In the end - after a lot of faffing around with a flashlight and a tiny mirror scavenged from my wife's makup bag - I satisfied myself that the wires were not touching each other or the frame. But I intend to keep an eye on it and if needs be I will add the liners.

Nixster
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:30 pm

by Nixster

It looks great!
I was looking at this frame too and would also be on a small. What put me off though was the 73 degree seat tube angle which would have my saddle a long way forward even with the in line post. How are you getting on with that, if anything yours seems to be the opposite?

simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

Nixster wrote:
Sat Jul 29, 2023 12:38 pm
It looks great!
I was looking at this frame too and would also be on a small. What put me off though was the 73 degree seat tube angle which would have my saddle a long way forward even with the in line post. How are you getting on with that, if anything yours seems to be the opposite?
Yeah I have the saddle about as far back as it will go. The seat post that ships with the frame is 0 setback. I could have used a bit of setback tbh. I should add that I also have my cleats set far forward, which is not on-trend, but I like it that way....

Ferdi77
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2021 5:37 pm

by Ferdi77

simbikotic wrote:
Nixster wrote:
Sat Jul 29, 2023 12:38 pm
It looks great!
I was looking at this frame too and would also be on a small. What put me off though was the 73 degree seat tube angle which would have my saddle a long way forward even with the in line post. How are you getting on with that, if anything yours seems to be the opposite?
Yeah I have the saddle about as far back as it will go. The seat post that ships with the frame is 0 setback. I could have used a bit of setback tbh. I should add that I also have my cleats set far forward, which is not on-trend, but I like it that way....
Why didn’t you go for the size medium then? You would have more setback and could ride the bike without spacers I assume


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simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

Ferdi77 wrote:
Sat Jul 29, 2023 11:33 pm
simbikotic wrote:
Nixster wrote:
Sat Jul 29, 2023 12:38 pm
It looks great!
I was looking at this frame too and would also be on a small. What put me off though was the 73 degree seat tube angle which would have my saddle a long way forward even with the in line post. How are you getting on with that, if anything yours seems to be the opposite?
Yeah I have the saddle about as far back as it will go. The seat post that ships with the frame is 0 setback. I could have used a bit of setback tbh. I should add that I also have my cleats set far forward, which is not on-trend, but I like it that way....
Why didn’t you go for the size medium then? You would have more setback and could ride the bike without spacers I assume


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Thanks for the question Ferdi. I could waffle for a long time on this subject because there are a lot of variables in this decision so apologies in advance if this post gets long and boring. I will try to be as concise as possible. The bottom line is this: I am in my mid forties and by now I have owned and ridden a lot of bikes in sizes ranging from 52cm-56cm and through trial and error I have learned that I prefer smaller frames. The main reason is handling - I find them more fun to ride. My wife has a lovely steel frame bike in size 51cm and I frequently 'borrow' it for short rides and love riding it. Most manufacturer charts recommend me a 54cm-56cm, but 54cm is absolutely the largest frame I would consider these days. I will try to break down some of the reasons below in order of importance...

1. Handling. Frames 55cm or more feel sluggish to me. In particular, when descending, I find they tend to "understeer" leading me to drift wide in corners at speeds where I could hold the line on a smaller frame.
2. Seatpost comfort. Smaller frames give you more seatpost out. This is good because you get more flex and therefore comfort (where you need - under your bottom), whereas the frame itself is nice and stiff for power transfer (smaller triangles).
3. Weight. Smaller is lighter!
4. Aesthetics. Some like the slammed stem look, which is harder to achieve on a smaller frame. Personally I am not a fan and think a spacer or two looks fine. However, I do appreciate the aesthetic of more seatpost out. An embarrassingly stubby 4" seatpost is not a good look (to me). Also worth considering how the rider looks on the bike. Shoulders up by the ears and broomstick straight arms - also not a good look.

Just one final thing to say. Do I think everyone should downsize on their frame? No! These reasons are very personal to me. If someone of similar build to me says they have ridden many sizes over many years and they *love* 56cm frames - I believe them. Everyone is different.

However, If you have been alway buying the manufacturer-recommended 55 and never tried a smaller frame, why not find a friendly LBS, that will let you test ride a few 52,53,54cm bikes and see how it feels? You may never look back.

reedplayer
Posts: 845
Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:10 am

by reedplayer

I think size "s" is just perfect for your body height. "m" is to big, and, btw, does not offer more setback, because seat angles are identical.
Love this bike, looks clean and consistent.

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MDecius
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:50 pm

by MDecius

Nice and clean looking build with great weight for Chorus and Zonda wheels. Makes me inspired to get mine lighter!
Road - Time Alpe d'Huez 01 rim
All-road - Diverge Elite DSW '16 disc

ksjogo
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2020 9:30 pm

by ksjogo

simbikotic wrote:
Thu Jul 27, 2023 3:12 am
Finally got around to doing some building...
PXL_20230605_012758677.jpg
Fitting the Chorus mechanical I opted to cross the wires for smoother bends and no paint contact. It was a bit of a faff to make sure the crossed wires in the downtube were not touching.

First time I have worked with an internal wire-guide in the bottom bracket. I was a little worried that the wires seemed to be touching the carbon:
PXL_20230611_010057718.jpg
But, when under the tension of the mech-spring they lifted up by about a mm and cleared the carbon.
Am also starting to build up a AdH 01.
One question about the internal wires.
The manual is referring to some inner sleeve/guide for the shifting wires.
But there doesn't seem to be one installed in my new frame. Did you have one?

And what were the tricks for crossing them? I would also like to cross them for the bends/paint.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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simbikotic
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

ksjogo wrote:
Tue Jan 09, 2024 12:52 pm
simbikotic wrote:
Thu Jul 27, 2023 3:12 am
Finally got around to doing some building...
PXL_20230605_012758677.jpg
Fitting the Chorus mechanical I opted to cross the wires for smoother bends and no paint contact. It was a bit of a faff to make sure the crossed wires in the downtube were not touching.

First time I have worked with an internal wire-guide in the bottom bracket. I was a little worried that the wires seemed to be touching the carbon:
PXL_20230611_010057718.jpg
But, when under the tension of the mech-spring they lifted up by about a mm and cleared the carbon.
Am also starting to build up a AdH 01.
One question about the internal wires.
The manual is referring to some inner sleeve/guide for the shifting wires.
But there doesn't seem to be one installed in my new frame. Did you have one?

And what were the tricks for crossing them? I would also like to cross them for the bends/paint.
Yes there were thin white tubes fitted in the frame for guiding the wires. Some have reccomended keeping these in (after trimming I guess). I removed mine. I crossed the wires and I tried both ways (FD 'on top' and RD 'on top') to see which way had no contact at the crossing point in the downtube. Seeing this involved a flashlight and a "borrowed" makeup mirror in the bb shell. I did this before I pressed the BB in obviously.

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