5.49kg Specialized Langster Pro
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2017 3:04 am
Parts List:
Frame: 2011 Specialized Langster Pro 54cm
Fork: S-Works Track fork-no hole
Headset Bearings: Unknown Specialized
HS dust cover: Lucendi
HS spacer: Extralite 25mm
Expander: CaneCreek eeCycleworks
Top cap/Bolt: Extralite
Stem: S-Works 90mm tuned w/ ZIPP Ti bolts-Ordered JL titanium -5g
Bars: Schmolke cut down
Grips: Extralite
Plugs: Lucendi Sub1/cut down Extralite
Seat Binder: Specialized tuned w/ aluminum bolt/drillium
Seatpost: S-works 20mm setback cut down and tuned with SRAM Ti brake hardware and eBay yokes, Darimo cradle
Saddle: S-works Romin evo 155
Crankset: SRAM Omnium 165mm-Rotor Track w/ALDHU carbon arms 165mm arriving next week
Chainring: SRAM 48T 1/8- Rotor 46t 3/32 arriving next week
BB: Chris King-no tube- Rotor Track arriving next week
Chain: KMC X101 (1/8”)- KMC X9SL (3/32”) will install with crank
Cog: Sugino Alloy 17t (1/8”)-Dura-ace 15T will install with crank
Lock ring: Sugino Alloy
Front Rim: Enve 3.4 rim brake “legacy”
Front Hub: DT240 SP 20h (branded as Powertap, covered logo with electrical tape)
Front Skewer: JL Titanium
Rear Rim: Enve 3.4 disc brake “legacy”
Rear Hub: American Classic 24h tuned w/ Profile Ti bolts
Nipples: Enve
Spokes: CX-Ray
Tape: DT Swiss Tubeless tape unknown MM
Tubes: Tubolito Tubo S 42/60mm
Front Tire:Conti GP 4000s 25mm
Rear Tire: Conti 4 Season black edition 25mm
Pedals: Crankbros 4Ti
As listed/ pictured 5890-5900g depending on the scale I will have everything I need to replace the crank and swap to a 3/32 drivetrain next week. I plan on braking the bike down completely and will update with individual weights and new overall. I expect to save 250-300 grams with the new drivetrain.
Help appreciated:
My ultimate goal is 5.44kg (12lb) While keeping the S-works stem/saddle/post
I plan to order Mack Low flange and Enve 2.3rims and lace them w/ CX-Rays maybe Superspoke for the front, however I am torn on if that is actually the best route, because I’m not sure if I want to take the weight penalty for Tubeless. What are people seeing for net weight gains going to tubeless.
Any suggestions on how to further lighten the seat wedge binder thing? it weights nearly 40g
Frame: 2011 Specialized Langster Pro 54cm
Fork: S-Works Track fork-no hole
Headset Bearings: Unknown Specialized
HS dust cover: Lucendi
HS spacer: Extralite 25mm
Expander: CaneCreek eeCycleworks
Top cap/Bolt: Extralite
Stem: S-Works 90mm tuned w/ ZIPP Ti bolts-Ordered JL titanium -5g
Bars: Schmolke cut down
Grips: Extralite
Plugs: Lucendi Sub1/cut down Extralite
Seat Binder: Specialized tuned w/ aluminum bolt/drillium
Seatpost: S-works 20mm setback cut down and tuned with SRAM Ti brake hardware and eBay yokes, Darimo cradle
Saddle: S-works Romin evo 155
Crankset: SRAM Omnium 165mm-Rotor Track w/ALDHU carbon arms 165mm arriving next week
Chainring: SRAM 48T 1/8- Rotor 46t 3/32 arriving next week
BB: Chris King-no tube- Rotor Track arriving next week
Chain: KMC X101 (1/8”)- KMC X9SL (3/32”) will install with crank
Cog: Sugino Alloy 17t (1/8”)-Dura-ace 15T will install with crank
Lock ring: Sugino Alloy
Front Rim: Enve 3.4 rim brake “legacy”
Front Hub: DT240 SP 20h (branded as Powertap, covered logo with electrical tape)
Front Skewer: JL Titanium
Rear Rim: Enve 3.4 disc brake “legacy”
Rear Hub: American Classic 24h tuned w/ Profile Ti bolts
Nipples: Enve
Spokes: CX-Ray
Tape: DT Swiss Tubeless tape unknown MM
Tubes: Tubolito Tubo S 42/60mm
Front Tire:Conti GP 4000s 25mm
Rear Tire: Conti 4 Season black edition 25mm
Pedals: Crankbros 4Ti
As listed/ pictured 5890-5900g depending on the scale I will have everything I need to replace the crank and swap to a 3/32 drivetrain next week. I plan on braking the bike down completely and will update with individual weights and new overall. I expect to save 250-300 grams with the new drivetrain.
Help appreciated:
My ultimate goal is 5.44kg (12lb) While keeping the S-works stem/saddle/post
I plan to order Mack Low flange and Enve 2.3rims and lace them w/ CX-Rays maybe Superspoke for the front, however I am torn on if that is actually the best route, because I’m not sure if I want to take the weight penalty for Tubeless. What are people seeing for net weight gains going to tubeless.
Any suggestions on how to further lighten the seat wedge binder thing? it weights nearly 40g
Last edited by Tacomajack on Wed Jun 07, 2023 5:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
-
- Posts: 300
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:49 pm
- Location: Danmark
I'm interested in the weight savings. My Langster Rio weighs standard 7.6kg
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW84i1gxjP9Jc8zp-DcK45Im_MgnCTioNSajFW7_BMjd7lqeYxutyma-y67Vviq8o9azWgU_7b5OVGp9IHbNbfOgMsvu_FRbFItC6MLdQA9qRYqnbhYAHhbvOgLSRg5iXHzIhjZ8Qd2uHxuDdneCnAc=w1470-h696-s-no?authuser=0)
Cannondale Super Six HiMod 2017 6.7 kg
Cannondale six13, 2004, 5.50kg
Focus Izalco Max, 2023 4.418 kg
Cannondale six13, 2004, 5.50kg
Focus Izalco Max, 2023 4.418 kg
![](https://weightweenies.starbike.com/starbike-bike-shop.gif)
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
-
- Posts: 849
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
- Location: Australia
Some dumb suggestions:
Does stepping down to a 14T cog help? Think a 44T or 42T front chainring would give you similar gear inches? Might give you a few grams for free.
If you're game you can also lose the lockring? But I'd advise against it unless you're riding on closed roads only (but judging by the other components you're not going anywhere near a velodrome with this).
If you glue the seatpost down you can also lose the wedge.
And also: Maxxis Highroad SL tyres, and check how many layers of tubeless tape you have. IIRC if you're not running tubeless you can get away with only 1 layer of tubeless tape, which is one of the lighter options IIRC.
Does stepping down to a 14T cog help? Think a 44T or 42T front chainring would give you similar gear inches? Might give you a few grams for free.
If you're game you can also lose the lockring? But I'd advise against it unless you're riding on closed roads only (but judging by the other components you're not going anywhere near a velodrome with this).
If you glue the seatpost down you can also lose the wedge.
And also: Maxxis Highroad SL tyres, and check how many layers of tubeless tape you have. IIRC if you're not running tubeless you can get away with only 1 layer of tubeless tape, which is one of the lighter options IIRC.
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2017 3:04 am
Does stepping down to a 14T cog help? Think a 44T or 42T front chainring would give you similar gear inches? Might give you a few grams for free. It would, however because the bike is brakeless I prefer to have as many skid patches as possible, this configuration gives me as many as 30 skid patches
If you're game you can also lose the lockring? But I'd advise against it unless you're riding on closed roads only (but judging by the other components you're not going anywhere near a velodrome with this). Never been to a Velodrome however you are absolutely right, I would run an aluminum cog if I could find one for 3/32 and potentially the YBN 11spd TI chain down the road
If you glue the seatpost down you can also lose the wedge.I don’t dislike that idea, I would prefer to find a way to get atleast one part 3D printed
And also: Maxxis Highroad SL tyres, and check how many layers of tubeless tape you have. IIRC if you're not running tubeless you can get away with only 1 layer of tubeless tape, which is one of the lighter options IIRC. Currently one layer of tape, I will take a look at those tires and see what they offer over Conti GP
Appreciate all the input
[/quote]
If you're game you can also lose the lockring? But I'd advise against it unless you're riding on closed roads only (but judging by the other components you're not going anywhere near a velodrome with this). Never been to a Velodrome however you are absolutely right, I would run an aluminum cog if I could find one for 3/32 and potentially the YBN 11spd TI chain down the road
If you glue the seatpost down you can also lose the wedge.I don’t dislike that idea, I would prefer to find a way to get atleast one part 3D printed
And also: Maxxis Highroad SL tyres, and check how many layers of tubeless tape you have. IIRC if you're not running tubeless you can get away with only 1 layer of tubeless tape, which is one of the lighter options IIRC. Currently one layer of tape, I will take a look at those tires and see what they offer over Conti GP
Appreciate all the input
[/quote]
![](https://weightweenies.starbike.com/starbike-bike-shop.gif)
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com