The short answer is no, so far as I'm aware. The Trigo's male clip has a single, central threaded bolt hole on its reverse. I bodged my existing up front mount to allow me to bolt through the mount into this clip. I see though that there is a version of this clip with a go-pro mount on the back.
Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works (4.99kg)
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Put on Panaracer Agilest TLR 25/30 yesterday, staggered tire sizes look unusual. First time had to throw the spent tires away due to wear and degradation.
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During the last three months, I was in the traditional winter mood where I don't want to even think about bicycles and instead of buying a trainer got myself a new gaming GPU. As the summer bloomed here in Cyprus, I finally managed to rebuild the bike and resumed cycling. So here's an update.
Back in October during a ride to Polis I encountered road works, with the only way around on a nasty downhill hardpack. As I did not want to go back, I decided to walk. By the end of the walk, my SH-R215B heels disappeared The shoes fit me well, but I was not able to find a replacement, so I decided to play safe and order current-gen Shimano shoes - RC902 or RC903 - in the same 44.5 size, which wasn't trivial to find, and even harder for what I was willing to pay, which I managed, although with a caveat - the deal was probably due to shoes being RC902T, not RC902 - basically the same thing, but a single Boa dial. The old shoes fit me better, but the new ones aren't that bad to warrant a replacement.
In October too, I went up Statos for the first time, caught a wobble descending 10% steep road and probably dragged the brakes too much. Ever since, I wasn't as confident descending. To gain the confidence back, I decided to improve the bike braking capability and gain more experience. For the former, I replaced worn-out Scrub Workhorse with an Ai-2 and then a Galfer, paired with RX-4+, saving some weight on the calipers and gaining some from beefier rotors. Surprisingly, finned Shimano pads weigh a couple of grams less than my aluminum-backed Cooma Ex-Plus, should be crazy light with radiators sawed off. As to experience, I simply started to brake less and less during descents I am familiar with and going down the hills I was scared of more often. The first ride I with the new brakes a nasty rain decided to pour over me, hopelessly contaminating the fresh pair of brake pads, I wasn't able to revive these even with sandpaper and rubbing alcohol, but good thing I kept the old ones from the FM-079. Can't tell the braking's any different compared to before, but at least I am more sure they'll perform well.
For a while, I knew that I almost never use the top of the cassette range, especially the 9t cog - I don't ride in groups, and on downhills when the 9t would do I'd rather tuck in and coast at about the same speed. And for the local hills, I could use lower gearing. As an experiment, I decided to swap the round 38t FibreLyte chainring with an aluminum oval 36t by Stone. So far, the shifted range has been great. If you don't train, you don't need high gears
It's worth mentioning that the DIY carbon fibre and liquid resin hoods I made a couple of years ago started to deteriorate, the resin erodes at contact points and exposes raw CF, fraying at edges. I was able to patch it up with Tesa tape, but instead of buying another spray can to do the repairs I opted to put the stock hoods back on. And wrap the bar with Deda Perforated instead of Tesa, for extra drop thickness and comfort during descends.
As an afterword, here's a recent photo of the bike:
Back in October during a ride to Polis I encountered road works, with the only way around on a nasty downhill hardpack. As I did not want to go back, I decided to walk. By the end of the walk, my SH-R215B heels disappeared The shoes fit me well, but I was not able to find a replacement, so I decided to play safe and order current-gen Shimano shoes - RC902 or RC903 - in the same 44.5 size, which wasn't trivial to find, and even harder for what I was willing to pay, which I managed, although with a caveat - the deal was probably due to shoes being RC902T, not RC902 - basically the same thing, but a single Boa dial. The old shoes fit me better, but the new ones aren't that bad to warrant a replacement.
In October too, I went up Statos for the first time, caught a wobble descending 10% steep road and probably dragged the brakes too much. Ever since, I wasn't as confident descending. To gain the confidence back, I decided to improve the bike braking capability and gain more experience. For the former, I replaced worn-out Scrub Workhorse with an Ai-2 and then a Galfer, paired with RX-4+, saving some weight on the calipers and gaining some from beefier rotors. Surprisingly, finned Shimano pads weigh a couple of grams less than my aluminum-backed Cooma Ex-Plus, should be crazy light with radiators sawed off. As to experience, I simply started to brake less and less during descents I am familiar with and going down the hills I was scared of more often. The first ride I with the new brakes a nasty rain decided to pour over me, hopelessly contaminating the fresh pair of brake pads, I wasn't able to revive these even with sandpaper and rubbing alcohol, but good thing I kept the old ones from the FM-079. Can't tell the braking's any different compared to before, but at least I am more sure they'll perform well.
For a while, I knew that I almost never use the top of the cassette range, especially the 9t cog - I don't ride in groups, and on downhills when the 9t would do I'd rather tuck in and coast at about the same speed. And for the local hills, I could use lower gearing. As an experiment, I decided to swap the round 38t FibreLyte chainring with an aluminum oval 36t by Stone. So far, the shifted range has been great. If you don't train, you don't need high gears
It's worth mentioning that the DIY carbon fibre and liquid resin hoods I made a couple of years ago started to deteriorate, the resin erodes at contact points and exposes raw CF, fraying at edges. I was able to patch it up with Tesa tape, but instead of buying another spray can to do the repairs I opted to put the stock hoods back on. And wrap the bar with Deda Perforated instead of Tesa, for extra drop thickness and comfort during descends.
As an afterword, here's a recent photo of the bike:
How did you like travelling with the Topeak Pakgo box?Klaster_1 wrote:Packed up the bike yesterday, leaving Russia today. This would be my first flight to a foreign country and the first time flying with a bike. The Topeak Pakgo X I timely bought right after the war started will finally see some use! Actually, I already used the travel stand for small maintenance - not as practical as a proper stand, but better than nothing. At first, I was skeptical all of my bike stuff would fit, but the storage capacity turned out massive. I was able to fit shoes, helmet, two water bottles, two vacuum bags full of clothes, a shoebox worth of small parts and tools and it still had enough nooks and crannies to cram more things into. With a heavier bike, you're more likely to hit the airline weight limit rather than insufficient space, mine came out at 26kg. The only thing not going well was just slightly insufficient case width - left hood was sticking out so much I couldn't zip the case in. Had to unbolt the shifter and lay it down horizontally.
I’m curious because I’ve come across a used Thule Roundtrip transition box for ~500$ which I’m interested in buying, but I’m worried that it’s HUGE. Haven’t travelled with a bike before either.
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