Sub5 with clinchers, Yet Another Aethos Build

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takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

Deihlos91 wrote:
Fri Feb 04, 2022 12:16 pm
Would it be possible for you to share a 30mm and 35mm size of the spacer?
Or would it possible from your side to share the spacer as a STP File then can I adjust the height and can adjust it to my spacer, because I have to use a other one. Whisky spacer are not available in Germany.
Would be really great!
I can share STEP file. It's been a while since I logged onto Grabcad so give me some time.
Regarding the carbon spacer, I suggested Whisky because it's very thin. You can use any other brand but check the wall thickness. Your other option is to not use a carbon spacer but that would be at your own risk. Ask the 3D printer service if they have a tougher material. I don't have experience using PLA. There was another thread about cracked 3D printed spacers.

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Turrifik
Posts: 100
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 5:08 pm

by Turrifik

takolino wrote:
Turrifik wrote:
Fri Feb 04, 2022 1:17 am
Still happy with the Darimo T1?
Yes, working well without major issues. The dyneema doesn't stretch and is holding the rails far better than the typical yoke and tension bolt style which tends to loosen over time.
There is one small visible issue. The braided string is showing some sign of wear where my shorts rub. The rails are wider than the saddle at the front of the clamp so my shorts rub that area a little. The string wraps around the rails in that widest point and is is exposed to my shorts rubbing the stirng which caused it to fray just a tiny bit. It's very subtle but you can see just a little bit of fuzzyness on the braids. There does not seem to be enough wear to weaken the string. This might not happen for some riders depending on the saddle width, clamping position and pedaling style. This is a Berk Lupina.
Image
Thanks for the detailed feedback. Very helpful.
Were your bibs injured in this process?

I’m on the fence about the T1 loop or the regular old T1 clamps. Are the dynema loops better, other than by 9g?


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Deihlos91
Posts: 54
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2021 4:39 pm

by Deihlos91

takolino wrote:
Fri Feb 04, 2022 9:16 pm
Deihlos91 wrote:
Fri Feb 04, 2022 12:16 pm
Would it be possible for you to share a 30mm and 35mm size of the spacer?
Or would it possible from your side to share the spacer as a STP File then can I adjust the height and can adjust it to my spacer, because I have to use a other one. Whisky spacer are not available in Germany.
Would be really great!
I can share STEP file. It's been a while since I logged onto Grabcad so give me some time.
Regarding the carbon spacer, I suggested Whisky because it's very thin. You can use any other brand but check the wall thickness. Your other option is to not use a carbon spacer but that would be at your own risk. Ask the 3D printer service if they have a tougher material. I don't have experience using PLA. There was another thread about cracked 3D printed spacers.
Thank you very much!
I have send you a Message on Grabcad with my email.
Allround:
Elilee Blize XXE 24 Carbon Raw L Custom-6340g
Sunday:
Colnago V3Rs 22 (RCRD) 54s Custom-6890g
BW/Travel:
Cannondale Synapse 20 Hi Mod 56 Custom-7200g
Old:
Specialized SWorks Aethos Jet Fuel 56 Custom-6060g

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

Turrifik wrote:
Fri Feb 04, 2022 10:42 pm

Thanks for the detailed feedback. Very helpful.
Were your bibs injured in this process?

I’m on the fence about the T1 loop or the regular old T1 clamps. Are the dynema loops better, other than by 9g?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have so many shorts in various levels of wear in circulation that I can't really tell but I don't think so.
My preference is for the loop because I think it's more secure. The yoke style (barell and bolt) tends to come loose as I've mentioned before. They can twist because there's nothing holding the yoke perpendicular to the rails.

The only drawback of the dyneema loop version is that it takes a little patience and care to align and position the loop. And the small barell that the loop is anchored to can rotate as you tighten the bolts. I ended up 3d printing a tool to hold the barell to prevent it from turning as I tightened the bolts. Once tightened, it stays secure, much better than the yoke and bolt type.

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Klaster_1
Posts: 1390
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Paphos, Cyprus

by Klaster_1

@takolino how did you manage to route the wires around the crank arm spindle without a BB shell that connects the cups? I also have a hard time removing the Di2 wiring from the stock bar, something inside is larger than the hole :/

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

@klaster_1, I 3d printed a shell. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=164939&start=15#p1650142 about half way down, white cylinder.
I'm not sure what you mean by removing the wires from the "stock bar". Are you talking about the handlebar? Maybe there's a junction box attached to it? You could probably pull on the connector itself if it it is acccessible, then it should detach from the J-box. A photo would be helpful.

Ah, I get it. The Aethos you got has wires inside the bar. I'm guessing there is a J-box inside. You can gently pull everything out from the bar-end with the charge port attached by feeding the wires back into the bar through the small holes. Hopefully, the wires are still connected to the charge port. Good luck!

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Klaster_1
Posts: 1390
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Paphos, Cyprus

by Klaster_1

takolino wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:30 pm
@klaster_1, I 3d printed a shell. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=164939&start=15#p1650142 about half way down, white cylinder.
Did you find the installation harder than, say, a Shimano BB with a shell? Aethos has a surprising amount of small quirks that increase the overall bike weight, I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't came out significantly lighter than my FM079. What a mess.
takolino wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:30 pm
Hopefully, the wires are still connected to the charge port. Good luck!
Looks like I messed up, I've disconnected and removed junction A and other wires already, only a single one left dangling from the routing hole. A day earlier the same thing happened when I tried to pull a heat-shrinked wire through a tiny cable hole in a head tube, but there at least multiple other access points to sort things out. The handlebar won't be as simple. Newbie Di2 mistakes, now I understand the appeal of AXS and 9200.
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takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

It was harder because I had to make an inner shell to protect the wires from the spindle. I suppose you can glue or tape the wires down so it won't touch the spindle. This would be true for many carbon frames with an open shell. One additional thing was facing the shell. There was a brief discussion on my thread.

As far as quirks, I only see one. The priprietary flat mount adapter forces you to use standard calipers, not a problem for most users. On the off hand chance that you want to use a non-standard brake caliper like Juintech, then yeah, the flat mount adapter can be a pain.
It's a fairly standard non-integrated frame so I would think there are more weight saving opportunities. The BSA bb allows use of Clavicula with normal bearings. The seat collar and seat tube diameter is standard. The removable front derailleur hanger saves weight if you want to go 1x.

I have a suggestion for removing the wires/junction from the handlebar. Get a fishing line or other stiff string and feed it through the small hole to the bar end. Then tape the string to the end of the wire, feed it back inside the bar and pull it out through the bar end.

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