3T Strada sub 6kg goal with cable disc and mechanical shifting

Who are you (no off-topic talk please)

Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team

Post Reply
GrafZeppelin
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:14 am

by GrafZeppelin

Thanks Takolino for all your advice!

I finally got my Strada built and decided not to use 3d-printed spacers because I needed to get the stem low. Anyway - I replicated your routing to front brake via steerer tube and that combined with Pro Vibe stem and heatshrink on top on exposed cables resulted pretty clean cabling.
Attachments
DSC_0138.JPG
16494173616861072315999622883771.jpg

dialchoose
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2022 12:55 pm

by dialchoose

I just ordered a Strada seatpost for the Ritchey clamp. The weight of it (size L) was 135g. My old Strada seatpost is 150g (size S). I think 15g is not much saving. I send it back.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



stanvr
Posts: 63
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2020 6:26 pm
Location: Netherlands

by stanvr

GrafZeppelin wrote:
Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:29 pm
Thanks Takolino for all your advice!

I finally got my Strada built and decided not to use 3d-printed spacers because I needed to get the stem low. Anyway - I replicated your routing to front brake via steerer tube and that combined with Pro Vibe stem and heatshrink on top on exposed cables resulted pretty clean cabling.
Can you elaborate more on how you routed the front brake hose? This seems very very clean! Does it go through the handlebar, through the stem, into the fork? How does it still clamp the steerer then?

GrafZeppelin
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:14 am

by GrafZeppelin

stanvr wrote:
Wed Apr 13, 2022 9:56 am
GrafZeppelin wrote:
Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:29 pm
Thanks Takolino for all your advice!

I finally got my Strada built and decided not to use 3d-printed spacers because I needed to get the stem low. Anyway - I replicated your routing to front brake via steerer tube and that combined with Pro Vibe stem and heatshrink on top on exposed cables resulted pretty clean cabling.
Can you elaborate more on how you routed the front brake hose? This seems very very clean! Does it go through the handlebar, through the stem, into the fork? How does it still clamp the steerer then?
Sure!

Like described on this thread, the fork has a channel from steerer to the left leg with cable opening. It takes some work to push the hose through but it can be done.

The handlebar is Deda Superzero dcr, which has a routing for cable. The stem is Pro Vibe, which has a routing for Di2 wires, but it can be also fitted with hydraulic hose:

https://road.cc/content/review/227460-pro-vibe-di2-stem

Then I just got expander with cable routing, like this:

https://r2-bike.com/SUPERNOVA-Expander- ... lug-KP651X

I needed to be sanded a bit to fit the 3T steerer tube.

Theres some pretty sharp bends with the hose but it seems to work flawlessly. Altough I have not had a chance to test it outdoors yet.

Downside is that stem removal requires removing of hose and brake bleed. But im confident with fit and regreasing of bearings can be done by detaching the brake mount from fork

stanvr
Posts: 63
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2020 6:26 pm
Location: Netherlands

by stanvr

Wow wow, I didn't know the pro vibe had room for a hydraulic cable (or di2 for that matter). I thought you might had the steerer cut way too low with what I would be comfortable with, but this is clever! Looks really clean. Im thinking of maybe getting an Exploro, this can make that choice perhaps a little bit easier ;)

GrafZeppelin
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:14 am

by GrafZeppelin

Yeah - I had normal 3T stem originally and I was considering option to cut the steerer low but I was not comfortable with that either. When looking for other stem options I found the Pro Vibe. It has marking for steerer tube cut limit inside and you can cut the steerer there and still fit the hose.

There some work to get it all done, but I think it pays off.

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

FSA ACR stems are a better option imo. More room for cable routing and a top cap that covers a more generous bend of the brake hose. I ran brake cable and it still works. You can easily run both shifter cables and brake over the top. Go back to page 9 for some early exploration of this.

dialchoose
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2022 12:55 pm

by dialchoose

takolino wrote:
Sun Feb 28, 2021 9:56 am
Image
@Toybota, fork has very similar clearance to the chainstays. About 3mm clearance measured with 3mm allen key.
How do you got the housing all the way through the fork until the brake?

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

It's a multi-step process.
First, confirm that your fork has a path through the crown by blowing into the steerer.
Next, tie a small nut, like a M3 or M4 to a thin thread and see if you can pass it through the brake exit hole on the fork leg and let gravity take it through the fork steerer. You may be able to help it with a magnet.
Next, tape the thread to a brake cable and see if you can pass that through. This may be tricky because the cable is stiff and it might have a harder time getting through the crown area. You may need to bend the cable end slightly. You may need to do an intermediate step with a thicker string so you can get a stronger connection with the cable. You may need to pull pretty hard on it. An inner plastic cable housing that sometimes come with segmented housings makes the job easier.
Once you have a cable through the fork, you should be able to get the cable housing through by pushing it as you pass it over the cable. The cable will act as a guide and you basically push it as you twist the housing to tease it through. It may help to tug on the cable when you get stuck. It takes a little patience and maybe some repetition. Difficulty will depend on how much space you have in the crown area. If you have trouble, try going the opposite direction. I've done this with two Strada forks successfully.
Good luck!

dialchoose
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2022 12:55 pm

by dialchoose

Thank you for your discription. I think I will try it in autumn. :beerchug:

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

NP! I may have made it more complicated than it needs to be. You could first try jamming a cable through. Twist the cable as you try to snake it through. You may be able to get it through without all the trouble.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

stalkersk
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:44 pm

by stalkersk

Hi Takolino, thanks for sharing this, I was able to to the same on my Exploro Ultra. Maybe tip which can help, I routed gear cable through the hose and it easily found a way into the steerer from bottom of the fork, then it needed just one push/pull to get through the bend in the fork.

VenoMchek
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2020 4:34 am

by VenoMchek

takolino wrote:
Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:27 am
So here's a quick update on the Metron 5d ACR bars.
Since the spacers that came with the bars weigh a ton and they didn't include a headset top which wouldn't have fit the 1/18" headset anyway, I ended up 3d printing a spacer cover to hide the skinny carbon spacers and the top headset bearing.
Image

The cable routing is now a bit cleaner than before. Front brake cable will be completely hidden. The rear brake and shifter cables will still be visible just behind the stem but it's out of the wind and out of the way.
Image

Viewed from the top, the cables are now totally out of the way. Still need to cut a mouse hole for the cables to come out through the top cap.
Man, your 3T project was a bit of inspiration for me when I started to build my Strada. It ended up with internal routing as well as you did but in my case with hydraulic brakes and internal routing for lines using ACR stem. I am on the finish line with everything and to make me happy I just need the same (but lower height) 3D printed transition spacer from upper bearing/compression ring to ACR stem. Do you think I could order one from you for the price you ask? Willing to provide any measurements you need to make it real. Hope this is not against the rules and still topic related. I appreciate the understanding...
983C81BC-00D7-4AEE-92D9-4DBDC870092A 2.jpg

takolino
Posts: 340
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am
Location: USA, SF Bay Area

by takolino

Thanks @venomcheck, unfortunately, your bike looks quite different from mine that I don't think the CAD file I have will work. It looks like your frame head tube protrudes above the top tube whereas mine was in line. Also, the stem has a different shape so essentially, you'd have to start from scratch. I might be able to provide some tips if you can post some close up photos of the area.

VenoMchek
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2020 4:34 am

by VenoMchek

takolino wrote:
Thu Dec 22, 2022 2:06 am
Thanks @venomcheck, unfortunately, your bike looks quite different from mine that I don't think the CAD file I have will work. It looks like your frame head tube protrudes above the top tube whereas mine was in line. Also, the stem has a different shape so essentially, you'd have to start from scratch. I might be able to provide some tips if you can post some close up photos of the area.
The thing is that my ACR stem kit had the same same spacers you had with your combo bar-stem. It is compatible. The only difference is very first spacer that go underneath the stem and work as adapter (highlighted below).
fLarzWI.png
443091.jpg
443091.jpg (29.68 KiB) Viewed 1423 times
In terms of the frame I don't think there's any difference either. My headset top cap is sitiing on top of compression ring for upper bearing which is high for some reason (attached photo below).
MH-P08F-3-600x600.jpg copy.jpg
MH-P08F-3-600x600.jpg copy.jpg (37.25 KiB) Viewed 1423 times
With that beeing said I just need really slim spacer from compression ring of upper headset bearing to the adapter that comes under the stem. Would be better to avoid it and have just one part adapter but in that case I need to make a CAD myself as you mentioned earlier.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Post Reply