Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg

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RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

66g for the pair!! (108g with the matching cleats).These pedals are crazy light. Can't wait to test them and see how easy/hard they are to clip/unclip. It's the Aerolite Alpha TT model, made out of titanium with a Turcite sleeve.
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Last edited by RouarierDmer on Sun May 09, 2021 10:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

by Weenie


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Bianchi10
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:53 pm

by Bianchi10

RouarierDmer wrote:
Tue May 26, 2020 10:18 pm
I will post a review about it after some actual road testing if some of you are interested.
interested in how this bike will turn out, but REALLY want to know more about this saddle! Looks fairly similar to the power saddle shape. Almost an in between of the Power/Berk Dila. Tell us more about the saddle when you can.

Nixster
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:30 pm

by Nixster

RouarierDmer wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 11:43 am
The bottom bracket metal sleeve looks heavy... Has anyone ever extracted one and replaced by a lighter solution?
Not sure that’s feasible, it’s bonded to the frame. It’s also probably your best chance of a non-creaking BB as nearly all the aftermarket fixes for press fit BBs are replicating this arrangement.

But hey, there’s always the spirit of adventure and discovery :D

Omiar
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm

by Omiar

About sanding - way too easy to damage the carbon and also very dusty. Get a couple of general purpose knives and use the scraping technique. If the paint is thick, it works very well. In my experience from a Scott frame, it does not remove the very-very thin first coat, which is actually good, since you can leave it like that and don't need to re-coat it.
In my experience, it was easier than I expected and physically it was easy. As I said, the thicker the paint, the easier it is to remove. The main issue to how to hold the frame it place and to have a comfortable (efficient) working position at the same time. On the main tubes a good working position was easy to find, its the rear triangle you have constantly adjust which takes time.

The bottom bracket shell you have to bore or mill out. Not sure how to hold/keep the frame aligned during that. Maybe Hambini can give tips and he's probably the one to go for a new custom BB.
Cannondale SystemSix R8170
Trek Checkpoint SL5 MY2022

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

Bianchi10 wrote:
Sat May 30, 2020 10:26 pm
RouarierDmer wrote:
Tue May 26, 2020 10:18 pm
I will post a review about it after some actual road testing if some of you are interested.
interested in how this bike will turn out, but REALLY want to know more about this saddle! Looks fairly similar to the power saddle shape. Almost an in between of the Power/Berk Dila. Tell us more about the saddle when you can.
Thanks. I will mount it on another bike this week and tell you how it feels.
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

Omiar wrote:
Sun May 31, 2020 7:11 pm
About sanding - way too easy to damage the carbon and also very dusty. Get a couple of general purpose knives and use the scraping technique. If the paint is thick, it works very well. In my experience from a Scott frame, it does not remove the very-very thin first coat, which is actually good, since you can leave it like that and don't need to re-coat it.
In my experience, it was easier than I expected and physically it was easy. As I said, the thicker the paint, the easier it is to remove. The main issue to how to hold the frame it place and to have a comfortable (efficient) working position at the same time. On the main tubes a good working position was easy to find, its the rear triangle you have constantly adjust which takes time.

The bottom bracket shell you have to bore or mill out. Not sure how to hold/keep the frame aligned during that. Maybe Hambini can give tips and he's probably the one to go for a new custom BB.
Thanks for all the advise Omiar. Totally agree about the dust, even though the rotary sander I own has a dust collector. Carbon dust is made of very small particles and they easily go through. That is the reason why I always wear a face mask and protective glasses. I am removing the first coat (primer), and also the pink filler wherever possible as otherwise it would look ugly on my frame. I don't plan to recoat it, just to leave a raw finish with very thin grit sandpaper and apply some UV protection (303 Aerospace).

I am almost done with sanding the frame right now. In the end like I said I only used the rotary sander to cut through the clearcoat and paint on the main tube sections. It was done in a matter of minutes and personally I never managed to reach that kind of speed using blades... The rest of the frame and fork I did with the Stanley knife. I am quite satisfied with the result but some areas were really hard to access (bottom bracket, brake mounts, cable bosses).

Not sure what you mean by damaging the carbon? I was able to see the difference in dust color when sanding (thick white dust for paint vs. thin black dust for carbon) and felt more resistance once I reached carbon. Even if you touch the first layer of carbon, I don't think it would cause structural damage to the frame.
Last edited by RouarierDmer on Tue Jun 02, 2020 11:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

Ted Ciamillo's Zero Gravity Lekki8 Black brakes (standard reach) came at 130g only with the padholders (lighter than THM fibulas at 120g but without padholders). As far as I know only the AX-lightness Orion and AX3000 are lighter. Unfortunately they are also known for their reputation in terms of stopping power...
I ordered them via r2-bike.com. I will make more pictures at a later stage to show the brakes in details. One thing I can tell is that the carbon finishes look superb. Great quality work!
Attachments
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Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

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LouisN
Posts: 3510
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

Congrats for the build so far.
One question comes to mind: I don't see any effort to make the bike aero.
One would think aero gains would be more productive as a triathlon bike, even more on long distance, even on hilly terrain, than saving a few grams here and there, but hey ! It's great weight weenies spirit :beerchug: !! You'll have fun on the uphill sections :thumbup:

Louis :)

BmanX
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

Aero gains are important in ever build. Everything should be aero and light.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

LouisN wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:21 am
Congrats for the build so far.
One question comes to mind: I don't see any effort to make the bike aero.
One would think aero gains would be more productive as a triathlon bike, even more on long distance, even on hilly terrain, than saving a few grams here and there, but hey ! It's great weight weenies spirit :beerchug: !! You'll have fun on the uphill sections :thumbup:

Louis :)
Hey,
Fair point LouisN. Let me clarify my thinking here.

I took into consideration two facts:
1. At an amateur cycling level, gravity forces start to trump air resistance when the gradient gets above ~5%. For this project, we are not so much talking about hilly triathlons, but more about Grand Tour mountain stages with multiple long climbs with two digits gradients sections (to give you an order of magnitude, these triathlons include 4000 to 6000 meters of elevation over a distance of 180km). So I believe weight gains are more important than aero gains, at least in this specific case.
2. Air resistance is roughly a 80/20 split between the driver and bike. So the biggest aero gains are to be made by tuning the bike position (frontal area reduction), helmet and trisuit. As a consequence for this project I did not select typical aero bike components nor a frameset that only provide minimal watt savings. Aerobars and streamlining cable routing are the only two aero elements I was planning on doing. But I am open to any suggestions.
Feel free to tell me if you disagree with the above
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

BmanX wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:51 am
Aero gains are important in ever build. Everything should be aero and light.
In an ideal world yes :thumbup:
Some components really illustrate well your motto: for example the TriRig Styx Aero Skewers are both lighter and more aero than traditional skewers. Hard to quantify the gains (3-4 watts claimed), but their design makes a lot of sense to me. I installed them on my TT bike and I love them.
However we know that aero shapes are sometimes only achieved at the expense of weight gains. For example a foil tube shape on a frame requires a thicker wall than a round tube would need, therefore increasing frame weight.
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

Here are my Deda Elementi Parabolica Uno J-bend aluminum bar extensions. Claimed weight was 350g, which remains quite light by aerobars standards. I plan to shorten them if needed, reanodize, replace the bolts and change the pads. Also add internal cable routing and SRAM aero shifters.
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Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

Controltech Race light skewers (claimed weight 26g). They are nice for both aero and weight vs traditional lever skewers. Still a few grams heavier than the Tune Skyline (19g) and Tune U20 (21g) though.
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Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

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LouisN
Posts: 3510
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
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by LouisN

RouarierDmer wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:53 pm
LouisN wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:21 am
Congrats for the build so far.
One question comes to mind: I don't see any effort to make the bike aero.
One would think aero gains would be more productive as a triathlon bike, even more on long distance, even on hilly terrain, than saving a few grams here and there, but hey ! It's great weight weenies spirit :beerchug: !! You'll have fun on the uphill sections :thumbup:

Louis :)
Hey,
Fair point LouisN. Let me clarify my thinking here.

I took into consideration two facts:
1. At an amateur cycling level, gravity forces start to trump air resistance when the gradient gets above ~5%. For this project, we are not so much talking about hilly triathlons, but more about Grand Tour mountain stages with multiple long climbs with two digits gradients sections (to give you an order of magnitude, these triathlons include 4000 to 6000 meters of elevation over a distance of 180km). So I believe weight gains are more important than aero gains, at least in this specific case.
2. Air resistance is roughly a 80/20 split between the driver and bike. So the biggest aero gains are to be made by tuning the bike position (frontal area reduction), helmet and trisuit. As a consequence for this project I did not select typical aero bike components nor a frameset that only provide minimal watt savings. Aerobars and streamlining cable routing are the only two aero elements I was planning on doing. But I am open to any suggestions.
Feel free to tell me if you disagree with the above
I'm curious about what "real world" event has such numbers. Please share. I haven't heard of anything like it. I heard about Norseman, in Norway but close to 0% of the participants use a road bike for this event.
Like I said before. Your project is super cool. You're going to have a great time going uphill on big gradients :beerchug: .

Louis :)

RouarierDmer
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri May 01, 2020 10:50 am
Location: Geneva, CH

by RouarierDmer

LouisN wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 11:59 pm
RouarierDmer wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:53 pm
LouisN wrote:
Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:21 am
Congrats for the build so far.
One question comes to mind: I don't see any effort to make the bike aero.
One would think aero gains would be more productive as a triathlon bike, even more on long distance, even on hilly terrain, than saving a few grams here and there, but hey ! It's great weight weenies spirit :beerchug: !! You'll have fun on the uphill sections :thumbup:

Louis :)
Hey,
Fair point LouisN. Let me clarify my thinking here.

I took into consideration two facts:
1. At an amateur cycling level, gravity forces start to trump air resistance when the gradient gets above ~5%. For this project, we are not so much talking about hilly triathlons, but more about Grand Tour mountain stages with multiple long climbs with two digits gradients sections (to give you an order of magnitude, these triathlons include 4000 to 6000 meters of elevation over a distance of 180km). So I believe weight gains are more important than aero gains, at least in this specific case.
2. Air resistance is roughly a 80/20 split between the driver and bike. So the biggest aero gains are to be made by tuning the bike position (frontal area reduction), helmet and trisuit. As a consequence for this project I did not select typical aero bike components nor a frameset that only provide minimal watt savings. Aerobars and streamlining cable routing are the only two aero elements I was planning on doing. But I am open to any suggestions.
Feel free to tell me if you disagree with the above
I'm curious about what "real world" event has such numbers. Please share. I haven't heard of anything like it. I heard about Norseman, in Norway but close to 0% of the participants use a road bike for this event.
Like I said before. Your project is super cool. You're going to have a great time going uphill on big gradients :beerchug: .

Louis :)
Sure, have a look at Alpsman, Evergreen 228, Swissman, or ICON Livigno for instance :D Hardly anyone is using a tri bike on these races.
Tune Golden Rocket - 5.66kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161531
Cannondale Supersix HM Tri - 4.63kg | viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161698

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



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