Man of culture!OtterSpace wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 5:17 amA few sunday night drunken thoughts that are probably only half feels and half reals:
Yup it's how we set up all our bicycles in Australia (and how all bikes have always been for me since I was a kid). Swapping them over would be life threatening when emergency braking! I did do a fair bit of trial and error with cable lengths (I wanted to make them as short as possible), but the longer I made them the smoother the brakes felt (the short outer cable for the rear brake looked so much cleaner super short, but when pulling on the brakes the cable would hit the frame so I settled on making it a fair bit longer). It is what it is though, the brakes work fine and comparing the ease and smoothness of the lever pull to hydraulic brakes is just unrealistic.OtterSpace wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 5:17 amIt looks like you are running British/Moto braking. While this is actually better if you ride motorcycle and bicycle some frames are kind of designed for a specific cable flow. If your rear brake feels like it has the same friction as the front regardless of handlebar steering leave it as is but if the rear feels any more draggy I'd swap.
Yup I saw these, but they will not ship to Australia. The carbon ones are on a Chinese site that I don't have access to (but I do have a friend who does so I may look into that at some point).OtterSpace wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 5:17 amhere is a USA link for the aftermarket smaller batteries.
I've done a lot of research on Tesa tape (it's what we use for wrapping wiring behind the centre console in cars!). Love the concept, but feel like it would look more at home on my retro 80's steel race bike vs. the more modern SL6 Tarmac. Tempting though for the fun of it!
100% agree that this is the best way to dial in a fit. It's taken me months to dial in my Allez Sprint as I've made the smallest changes (1mm here, 1mm there) over a long period of time as opposed to making a lot of changes before each ride. Riding 5 days a week at the exact same location and route has helped a lot too.OtterSpace wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 5:17 amTake your time with positioning setup. The longer the better. It takes me forever which is why I have tons of kalloys in different lengths.
You went with wheels that are optimized for the width you have but the platform can fit wider if you want.
And yup, the bike came with 28C tyres, which I think looked way more aggressive as it made the gaps between the rear tyre and seatpost tube way smaller (I love that look). So I'm tempted to get some 28's back on, but will at least live with these for a while.
25C. Big gaps.
28C fills the gaps.
I'm hoping the weight weenie disease will subside now that I've surpassed my goal of low 6kg's with this build, but there are a few small things I'm tempted to change:
EXTRALITE Cassette Lock Ring [-1.5g]
EXTRALITE Ahead Top Cap [-5.2]
EXTRALITE Expander UltraStar [-25g]
EXTRALITE Quickrelease Skewers [-13g]
EXTRALITE Handlebar Plugs [-7g]
JAGWIRE Elite Link [-40g]
Shortcage Derailleur Cage [-7g]
That's almost a 100g savings over what's on the bike at the moment without spending too much (I already have a spare short cage derailleur).
But where does it end? Gelu saddle, Darimo bars, stem and seatpost, 645g Brisk tubular wheelset, lighter chainrings... at that stage I'd be wishing I had an S-WORKS RTP frameset to dip into the 4kg mark! IE: I think I've got to be happy that the build has come out way lighter than I expected. The plan now is to just ride it, and I'm sure the more I ride it the more clear things will be (whether I need to change anything, etc.).